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The Budget Friendly Mod Thread


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There was a tiny puddle of fresh oil at the edge of the plenum and my throttle body was literally caked up with crap. On the inside.

 

 

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normal.

 

not great, but not all that damaging either.

 

make sure your PCV system is operating properly and use a proper viscosity oil with a low NOACK score and it won't be an issue.

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  • 3 weeks later...

no.

 

they're actually questionable on modified engines unless you happen to go through...... most of the engine, changing bearing gaps among other specifications to better suit a colder running engine.

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Engines run more efficient at higher temps, MPG wise, mostly for fuel atomization and more complete combustion I believe.

A lot of times aftermarket tuner companies will recommend lower temp thermostats (160 deg) in an attempt to lower cylinder temps reducing the chance of pre-ignition (knock retard) due to advanced timing and fuel mixtures changes to get optimum performance.

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aka: Band-Aid for a bad design or unintended form of operation. it does lower incoming air temps for a more dense air-charge, but at what cost? cold-weather operation deteriorates, emissions suffer(with a possible exception to NoX, but depending on calibration changes, not always), engine wear accelerates.... literally one minor good effect vs many major bad ones.

 

more efficient combustion helps literally every aspect of engine operation, more power is made for a given amount of fuel.

 

 

 

 

and before cold-air intakes come up(again?), unless you have a TGP, you have a more than adequate filter/tubing setup that already draws cold-air behind the headlamp. for whatever stupid reason, someone at GM/McLaren got one hell of a joke filter into production for the TGPs. i'll let that one pass for "needs more air" rather than "want more sound", which is what a CAI/SAI does otherwise.

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GM engineers aren't dumb.... occasionally, they get overruled by accountants, but the engine is designed to operate between the factory thermostat temperature and the factory fan 1 on temperature(225ish, going off of memory), though keeping thermal cycling(bouncing between those two temperatures) to a minimum isn't a bad thing.

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aka: Band-Aid for a bad design or unintended form of operation. it does lower incoming air temps for a more dense air-charge, but at what cost?

 

There may be a slight reduction in intake air temp due to the 35 deg cooler intake manifold and intake plumbing which may be part of the claims for BIG HP gains. Seems like that was a Hypertech thing in the early '90's.

I got a Fastchips brand chip for my '89 Lesabre T-type N/A 3800, back in '04, claimed +13HP at the wheels (which you could feel going up the canyons) with no need to go to lower temp thermostat.

I tried a 180 deg t-stat anyway and all I noticed is that it took 35 min of driving to get the passenger compartment up to temp instead of 20 min at 10 deg below 0.

 

 

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So no sense for me to swap my 195 thermostat to a 180. Again all stock l82

 

No advantage with stock setup, especially if you want to stay warmer in the winter time.

 

 

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and before cold-air intakes come up(again?), unless you have a TGP, you have a more than adequate filter/tubing setup that already draws cold-air behind the headlamp. for whatever stupid reason, someone at GM/McLaren got one hell of a joke filter into production for the TGPs. i'll let that one pass for "needs more air" rather than "want more sound", which is what a CAI/SAI does otherwise.

 

I agree, if your engine only flows 600 CFM and the factory filter is good for 650 CFM there is no point in putting on a filter that flows 800 CFM.

Although I think there is some merit to using a ram air set up. I added an extra snorkel to a factory large filter Chevy truck housing that I put on top the 750 CFM Rochester Quadra junk carb in my old '82 T/A with a mild 400 inch small block. I added the dual snorkel ram air with a factory paper filter that ran to 2 funnel type scoops next to the fog lights, went from 91 to 100 octane fuel, bumped the timing from 12 -16 deg before TDC and the car went from 13.23 to 12.81 in the quarter.

Granted, most of that was better fuel and more timing. Maybe I just like Ram-Air?

Then I added a bigger cam and went 12.47 at 109.5 MPH.[emoji15][emoji3]

 

 

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There may be a slight reduction in intake air temp due to the 35 deg cooler intake manifold and intake plumbing which may be part of the claims for BIG HP gains. Seems like that was a Hypertech thing in the early '90's.

I got a Fastchips brand chip for my '89 Lesabre T-type N/A 3800, back in '04, claimed +13HP at the wheels (which you could feel going up the canyons) with no need to go to lower temp thermostat.

I tried a 180 deg t-stat anyway and all I noticed is that it took 35 min of driving to get the passenger compartment up to temp instead of 20 min at 10 deg below 0.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I know all about hyperjunks.... the 85 IROC had one, I pulled the calibration off of it and it looks terrible compared to a stock calibration. that one wanted a 160 thermostat as well, so much so that they quit changing tables above that temperature.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Can I install the 96+dog bones on my 94. It has the ones with the round bushings on each end

 

 

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If it's the same engine you should be able to, only I don't really see how that would do anything

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90* flipped torque strut bushings aren't as rigid as a good pair of the dogbones you already have, if you really want something FIRM look in the for sale section at the GOT2BGM dogbones with poly bushings.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 years later...

please for the love of god fix the retarded ass broken images caused from Photobucket trying to extort money from people by holding their images hostage. 

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Unless you can get every single person that’s ever posted in this thread to go to Photobucket and download all the pictures, reupload them somewhere else, figure out which ones went to which post, and updates all the links, that’s probably not gonna happen.

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