UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Nas Escobar

  • Content Count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Nas Escobar last won the day on March 20

Nas Escobar had the most liked content!

About Nas Escobar

  • Rank
    #1 Stunna

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    District of Columbia


  • Location
    Washington, DC

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Bumping this up, if it helps anyone. To change the LQ1 alternator, the subframe doesn't have to be lowered, but the CV Axle and shield do have to be removed. Doing this lets you have a "landing" spot for the alternator. I took the wheel bearing off on mine because it was easier than messing with the lower control arm. Plus you risk damaging the boot if you use a pickle fork to pop the lower ball joint off. The other advantage is that it gives you visibility to the alternator through the spring perch, which you don't get with the wheel bearing bolted on. Remove 4 15mm bolts and it's out. The major thing here are tools. A flex head ratcheting wrench works wonders on that 10mm bolt that attaches the alternator to that back bracket and it's easier to use a ratcheting wrench on the two 13mm bolts that hold the alternator up. Shallow sockets are too small and deep sockets are too large so if you can find a mid length socket for the 13mm's it's pretty easy to get the bolts off (It's easier to loosen them up with a ratchet and then work them out with the ratcheting wrench). The top bolt is barely visible, especially if you're working on the floor but it can be loosened without lowering the subframe. The lower bolt (the long bolt) will hit the frame but doesn't need to fully come out like it does on a traditional alternator swap. There's a groove where it sits and it will rock out. Then if you want, you can take it off and it slides above the heater tube (or I think it's the heater tube, that annoying tube that sits by the frame). There's a spacer on the engine side so be aware of that or you'll lose it in the abyss of the ground. Honestly, 30 years after that engine was designed; there's alternators in worse positions. This isn't the worst job on the LQ1, I'm pretty sure that title goes to the timing belt.
  2. How many miles on the Z34? I have a 93 with a wrecked body so this might be up my alley. Could you also post pictures?
  3. Buick still exists though. Saturns were plentiful but the thing with compact cars is that they get scrapped quicker than full size cars or trucks do.
  4. I have a spare UB3 cluster around. Ive collected 2 of them since theyre hard to find. Thats the one with the advanced features. The basic one only had speed, fuel and mileage.
  5. Welcome to the forum. Can you post s picture of the cluster ? They were 2 available .
  6. If yours is a 96, are you keeping ODB2? The LQ1 is really 3 engines with that RPO code. 91-93 with MPFI and missing some sensors, 94 and 95 with halfway SFI (after 3000 rpm it switches to mpfi iirc) and the funny computer and 96/97 with ODB2. There's a Monte Carlo in Jessup if you want to keep ODB2. Is that vert 94? I need an ECM
  7. GM was very selective about that one. W body mirrors are fixed throughout the whole run but for some reason the later N bodies and J bodies got mirrors that could fold but they would return to position via a spring. The N body thing is even funnier because Grand Ams got 2 different mirrors depending if it was SE or GT. One of them would fold and have the spring, the other wouldn't because the design was a dual post mirror.
  8. Welcome. What size wheels are on it?
  9. I haven't had a fb since 2012 and haven't looked back since
  10. Is it still available? Haven't heard from the seller on here and I know it's on CL.
  • Create New...