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Lumina T60 Caliper bolt


dodgethis
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Hey, just as the title says, Where are we to find replacements for our T60 bolts? I don't want to use the socket head replacements that orielys, or auto zone sell. Are these specific to the dealer?

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No problem...I'm 90 miles away in Knoxville, I think you're the only member in Chattnooga...

 

I just got the last 4 bolts from east brainerd's Advanced Auto parts, Sorry if anyone local was looking for some :roll:
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Got an extra "d" in there?

 

 

Hahahaha, my wife says 'Advanced Auto' every time I say I need to go there. Cracks me up. Anyhow, glad to know these can be obtained there should I need 'em in the future.

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Got an extra "d" in there?
:lol:

 

I bought mine at NAPA. About seven bucks each. NAPA p/n BK 6751244

 

When I went to 'Advance' they were a rough 5 dollars each. It ended up being around 20.00 dollars after buying 4 of them. FYI to anyone who is going to need them, and know where they are to get them. I am glad I thought about replacing the originals because on the drivers side it was all chewed up inside.

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On another note, I couldn't believe it, O'Reilly's auto parts doesn't carry the Wagner thermo quiet rotors. They do honor the life time replacements on brake pads, but what they have to offer as an equivalent is brake-best. I was told that all the rotors are the same, and doesn't matter whether its a wagner, or a brake-best. I personally don't really know if that's correct, but whatever.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I had issues getting mine off both cars due to my T60 from advance auto breaking everytime i tried. I guess i have to upgrade to a matco or snap on T60, matches my box anyhow.

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I got all 4 of mine off of the plenty rusty 94 GP Sedan... but it took me several hours over the course of a couple of days to get them all out.

Required half a can of PB Blaster, some quality time with a cheap propane torch, and some serious wrenching via a 15" 1/2 Drive Breaker Bar with a 3lb sledgehammer ruining the finish on it's handle.

My T60 socket survived perfectly, and I got to hear some crazy metal-on-metal creaking sounds when I finally got the bolts to move.

 

I wire wheeled and re-used my original caliper bolts, but seeing this post makes me think I should get brand new ones before my old ones seize up on me again...

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I've always thought that they were a shitty design that gm used for way too long.

 

I use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe on the end. Works good for me. I've only broke one T60. But I replace them all the time.

 

Funny thing is I've recently moved (april '12) to a different town and the parts stores around here have no clue what the bolt is for. They always look in the computer and tell me that its a GM only part. I usually have to as for the manger to have them explain to the 18 year olds that life existed before computers and not everything is listed in them. Some times they have to look in thoses heavy things with lots of paper bound together called a book. Then magically they have them in stock. I really think all the part store hires is the dumbest people on the planet. I've even had them tell me that Chevy never put a 3800 in a lumina so they couldn't sell me any parts till I found out what the engine was out of.

 

 

 

Sometimes I think it would just be easier to drive the 45 miles back to where I use to live to get parts. Lol.

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I got all 4 of mine off of the plenty rusty 94 GP Sedan... but it took me several hours over the course of a couple of days to get them all out.

Required half a can of PB Blaster, some quality time with a cheap propane torch, and some serious wrenching via a 15" 1/2 Drive Breaker Bar with a 3lb sledgehammer ruining the finish on it's handle.

My T60 socket survived perfectly, and I got to hear some crazy metal-on-metal creaking sounds when I finally got the bolts to move.

 

I wire wheeled and re-used my original caliper bolts, but seeing this post makes me think I should get brand new ones before my old ones seize up on me again...

 

The bolts were around 5 dollars when i got mine replaced.

Edited by dodgethis
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I've even had them tell me that Chevy never put a 3800 in a lumina so they couldn't sell me any parts till I found out what the engine was out of

 

That's sad, I have seen 3800's in Lumina's, and wanted one so bad in mine!

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I got all 4 of mine off of the plenty rusty 94 GP Sedan... but it took me several hours over the course of a couple of days to get them all out.

Required half a can of PB Blaster, some quality time with a cheap propane torch, and some serious wrenching via a 15" 1/2 Drive Breaker Bar with a 3lb sledgehammer ruining the finish on it's handle.

My T60 socket survived perfectly, and I got to hear some crazy metal-on-metal creaking sounds when I finally got the bolts to move.

Heat, I believe. Penetrating oil...the fact that you used half-a-can should tell you that it didn't do any good. The seal is pretty much air-tight, the penetrant can't get "inside" to do any good until AFTER you've loosened the fastener some.

 

I wire wheeled and re-used my original caliper bolts, but seeing this post makes me think I should get brand new ones before my old ones seize up on me again...

The problem is not the threads. The problem is that the steel "bell" seizes to the bolt shaft, so when you try to remove the bolt, not only are you turning the threads in the hole, you've got to spin the entire bell. The end of the bell is formed so that it's producing line-contact in three or four places; very high loading and therefore very high friction.

 

If we could figure out how to keep the bell from seizing to the bolt, our problems would be done. Anti-seize doesn't do it; although it might help somewhat. The real solution would be a non-rusting coating applied to the bolt or the bell before the thing is assembled and the threads are rolled or the bell is crush-fit to the bolt.

 

When re-using the bolts, you need to assure that the bell is free to spin on the bolt during assembly. Of course, it'll be seized again when you need to replace the pads next time. But so would new bolts, so I don't see a reason to ditch the existing ones unless they've got damage to the Torx drive, or damage on the threads.

Edited by Schurkey
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Thanks for the info Shurkey!

Yeah, it was clear the penetrating oil was not really doing anything until I finally got the initial seal broke loose after lots of heat... once that happened it helped big time. I was just frustrated and a bit too spray happy at first.

 

Really good to know what that bell is there for, I was wondering what the point was other than making removal difficult. :lol:

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That's sad, I have seen 3800's in Lumina's, and wanted one so bad in mine!

 

 

I've had 3 now. I like them but really prefer 2 doors. My wife likes 4 doors so that's what she's been driving. 99 lumina ltz.

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Hey, just as the title says, Where are we to find replacements for our T60 bolts? I don't want to use the socket head replacements that orielys, or auto zone sell. Are these specific to the dealer?

Have you tried Fastenal? I was able to locate the wheel bearing bolts I needed there, although I opted for a different size hex head, but they may have T60's you need!

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