Anyone need a Subwoofer?

[xtremerevolution]

Hmm, do you think this is something that my high schools shop class would probably have? My Civil Engineering and Architecture teacher is also the Shop teacher which builds everything up do a full size wood desk for the Level 3 Shop Class. Might be able to ask him if I could barrow them for a few days?

 

Should have them.

 

Otherwise, you'll need at least 4 of these, preferably 6.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-bar-clamp-96211.html

[Rick]

Looks like I'm in a dilemma. When I thought that Bazooka sub blew it may never of, the rca outputs on the stereo receiver is what are messed up. I didnt think they were but my dad verified it by running two speaker wires to the RCA's and sound came through. So my RCA outputs are blown, so we go a female-female rca coupler and then 2 male rca-speaker wire to run to the receiver from the amplifier. Looks like im not able to run a subwoofer until I either find my Best Buy receipt to return it under warranty and have it repaired or until I can afford another headunit. This was honestly the last thing I expected and I am glad i caught this before purchasing more components.

[xtremerevolution]

You could always run a high level converter. Hooks up to your speaker wires and outputs an RCA signal. They're fairly cheap too, like under $20.

 

I'd go the warranty route first and see if you can do anything there. How long ago did you buy it?

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

Edited December 30, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[Rick]

You could always run a high level converter. Hooks up to your speaker wires and outputs an RCA signal. They're fairly cheap too, like under $20.

 

I'd go the warranty route first and see if you can do anything there. How long ago did you buy it?

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

 

I bought it roughly 7 or 8 months ago I would say, it definitely has not been a year. I opened up the box and no receipt. So now I am on the hunt for that receipt which im convinced has to be somewhere in my room...

[xtremerevolution]

I bought it roughly 7 or 8 months ago I would say, it definitely has not been a year. I opened up the box and no receipt. So now I am on the hunt for that receipt which im convinced has to be somewhere in my room...

 

If you don't find it, call Pioneer. For things like this, they might be flexible about fixing it without needing a receipt.

 

This is one reason I LOVE Image Dynamics products. They stand by their products no matter what. I bought a used IDMax10 (their most powerful competition SQL subs) from a member on DIYMA.com a while back and I noticed there was a leak in the dust cap. I confirmed it by placing flour on the dust cap and pushing down on the cone. I called them (ID) up and the guy said its an impossible defect because the dust caps are sealed in 3 different places and are integral to the cooling of the voice coil and that it must have been an assembly error, so they sent me a re-cone kit for free. They didn't ask when it was purchased, where it was purchased, if there was a receipt or not, etc. They knew it was their sub and it was defective. I installed the recone kit (its nice that the sub can be re-coned in 15 minutes with a screwdriver) and had alignment issues with the spider in about 2 weeks, so I shipped them the entire sub. Within a week, they re-coned it for me again for free and sent it back, and its been great since then. All I ever paid for was shipping to them.

'

If Pioneer values their customers, they'll acknowledge that its their head unit and its broken and should fix or replace it. If you bought it at standard retail price and it's a 2011 model, chances are you won't have any issues. You can't outrun the 1 year warranty on a head unit that wasn't for sale for over a year yet.

 

But, if in a worst case scenario, you don't have any luck with them, this is the next best solution:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SLC4-Speaker-Level-Converter/dp/B000BFL52Q/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1325272364&sr=8-15

 

That will actually allow you to run two sets of RCAs. Just hook this up behind your head unit and run a second RCA set and you'll be good to go.

 

In fact, it might be cheaper than shipping out your head unit to Pioneer.

[Rick]

If you don't find it, call Pioneer. For things like this, they might be flexible about fixing it without needing a receipt.

 

This is one reason I LOVE Image Dynamics products. They stand by their products no matter what. I bought a used IDMax10 (their most powerful competition SQL subs) from a member on DIYMA.com a while back and I noticed there was a leak in the dust cap. I confirmed it by placing flour on the dust cap and pushing down on the cone. I called them (ID) up and the guy said its an impossible defect because the dust caps are sealed in 3 different places and are integral to the cooling of the voice coil and that it must have been an assembly error, so they sent me a re-cone kit for free. They didn't ask when it was purchased, where it was purchased, if there was a receipt or not, etc. They knew it was their sub and it was defective. I installed the recone kit (its nice that the sub can be re-coned in 15 minutes with a screwdriver) and had alignment issues with the spider in about 2 weeks, so I shipped them the entire sub. Within a week, they re-coned it for me again for free and sent it back, and its been great since then. All I ever paid for was shipping to them.

'

If Pioneer values their customers, they'll acknowledge that its their head unit and its broken and should fix or replace it. If you bought it at standard retail price and it's a 2011 model, chances are you won't have any issues. You can't outrun the 1 year warranty on a head unit that wasn't for sale for over a year yet.

 

But, if in a worst case scenario, you don't have any luck with them, this is the next best solution:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SLC4-Speaker-Level-Converter/dp/B000BFL52Q/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1325272364&sr=8-15

 

That will actually allow you to run two sets of RCAs. Just hook this up behind your head unit and run a second RCA set and you'll be good to go.

 

In fact, it might be cheaper than shipping out your head unit to Pioneer.

 

 

It is still sold in Best Buy too, the issue will be on the receiver the Manufacture date is November 2010. :\ I will try giving them a call and see what they say if I cant find that receipt by the end of break.

 

As for now for those speakers im running a RCA Male to Speaker wire to the speaker wires for the Front Left and Right speakers coming out of the receiver which connects to the old RCA wires by a Female-Female coupler. Hopefully this should all work for the speaker portion...ahh.

[skitchin]

Best Buy's customer service must have a strict policy to be as rude as possible to customers. I bought an xbox 360 steering wheel there once, the package had been taped shut and was missing a required adapter. I brought it back w/ the receipt 15 minutes later and they acted like they weren't going to accept it. I didn't back down and told them they had to take it back, and they did. I fucking hate Best Buy, which sucks because I live across the street from the one in Ellisville.

[Gpfreak]

If you don't find it, call Pioneer. For things like this, they might be flexible about fixing it without needing a receipt.

 

This is one reason I LOVE Image Dynamics products. They stand by their products no matter what. I bought a used IDMax10 (their most powerful competition SQL subs) from a member on DIYMA.com a while back and I noticed there was a leak in the dust cap. I confirmed it by placing flour on the dust cap and pushing down on the cone. I called them (ID) up and the guy said its an impossible defect because the dust caps are sealed in 3 different places and are integral to the cooling of the voice coil and that it must have been an assembly error, so they sent me a re-cone kit for free. They didn't ask when it was purchased, where it was purchased, if there was a receipt or not, etc. They knew it was their sub and it was defective. I installed the recone kit (its nice that the sub can be re-coned in 15 minutes with a screwdriver) and had alignment issues with the spider in about 2 weeks, so I shipped them the entire sub. Within a week, they re-coned it for me again for free and sent it back, and its been great since then. All I ever paid for was shipping to them.

'

If Pioneer values their customers, they'll acknowledge that its their head unit and its broken and should fix or replace it. If you bought it at standard retail price and it's a 2011 model, chances are you won't have any issues. You can't outrun the 1 year warranty on a head unit that wasn't for sale for over a year yet.

 

But, if in a worst case scenario, you don't have any luck with them, this is the next best solution:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SLC4-Speaker-Level-Converter/dp/B000BFL52Q/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1325272364&sr=8-15

 

That will actually allow you to run two sets of RCAs. Just hook this up behind your head unit and run a second RCA set and you'll be good to go.

 

In fact, it might be cheaper than shipping out your head unit to Pioneer.

 

Ever since ID was bought out I wouldnt consider dealing with them. Also, I wouldnt run a line level.. a new, basic cd player is what? all of 80 bucks online? Much better option.

[Rick]

Ever since ID was bought out I wouldnt consider dealing with them. Also, I wouldnt run a line level.. a new, basic cd player is what? all of 80 bucks online? Much better option.

 

I have an OLD Pioneer ...from 1997. Lol, none the less the RCA Lines on it still work if I really find it a necessity. The Pioneer 3300 I payed almost $140 new :\. Anyways, lining the distribution box with fuses in today, the amplifier really makes those speakers incredibly loud, my friend was amazed how loud and clear they were just with the 2 front speakers. Im happy for under $100 I must say

[xtremerevolution]

Ever since ID was bought out I wouldnt consider dealing with them.

You should get your story straight. Not trying to be rude, but you don't seem to know what went on. Granted, I might not know the exact story (who does?), but I know that they didn't simply get "bought out."

 

Early on, Eric Stevens (the owner) made a deal with an investor. That investor was Powerbass. They each held a part of the company together, and to my knowledge, Eric needed the investment to kickstart his company. That was years ago. The agreement was that when ID was ready, they would buy back their shares from Powerbass. 3 years of negotiations went on, and they couldn't come to an agreement, so Eric Stevens left. Their lead engineer, Matt Borgardt left with him. When the DIYMA.com community heard about this, many vendors dropped ID and many customers swore to go to another product. There are a few elements everyone seemed to have conveniently forgotten.

 

1. The company was run by more than just Eric and Matt. They had a large team of people who are still there. The experience I wrote up there happened in the middle of this year, long after Eric and Matt had left. I still have the contact info of the tech who helped me. They still stand by their product as they always did.

2. Eric and Matt left the company. They weren't bought out. Negotiations went sour and they abandoned ship and moved to start another company.

3. With the exception of the horns, which Eric took with him, all of IDs products are the same. They come from the same factory, the same manufacturer, and they have the same quality. The IDMax and IDQ drivers are still made in the USA. Let me rephrase: they have the same products they did when Eric and Matt were running the place. They still sell some of the best subs, amps, and components money can buy. If I had the money, I'd be running ID amps.

 

The thing that bothers me about people who refuse to buy from them just because Eric and Matt left is that they don't realize that they're hurting the rest of the employees that worked for that company and did an excellent job all these years. So long as they are still selling the same products and that their quality is just the same as it used to be, I will continue buying and recommending ID products. When that changes, so will my recommendations. There were suspicions that they'd suddenly all of their production offshore and stoop to chinese quality levels. That hasn't happened yet. When I receive word that their quality and performance has taken a turn for the worse, I will abandon their products.

Edited December 31, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[Rick]

Best Buy's customer service must have a strict policy to be as rude as possible to customers. I bought an xbox 360 steering wheel there once, the package had been taped shut and was missing a required adapter. I brought it back w/ the receipt 15 minutes later and they acted like they weren't going to accept it. I didn't back down and told them they had to take it back, and they did. I fucking hate Best Buy, which sucks because I live across the street from the one in Ellisville.

 

Best Buy gave me a free exchange on the 3300-UB receiver without a receipt, very happy. Im probably looking at a sub again.

[Gpfreak]

You should get your story straight. Not trying to be rude, but you don't seem to know what went on. Granted, I might not know the exact story (who does?), but I know that they didn't simply get "bought out."

 

Early on, Eric Stevens (the owner) made a deal with an investor. That investor was Powerbass. They each held a part of the company together, and to my knowledge, Eric needed the investment to kickstart his company. That was years ago. The agreement was that when ID was ready, they would buy back their shares from Powerbass. 3 years of negotiations went on, and they couldn't come to an agreement, so Eric Stevens left. Their lead engineer, Matt Borgardt left with him. When the DIYMA.com community heard about this, many vendors dropped ID and many customers swore to go to another product. There are a few elements everyone seemed to have conveniently forgotten.

 

1. The company was run by more than just Eric and Matt. They had a large team of people who are still there. The experience I wrote up there happened in the middle of this year, long after Eric and Matt had left. I still have the contact info of the tech who helped me. They still stand by their product as they always did.

2. Eric and Matt left the company. They weren't bought out. Negotiations went sour and they abandoned ship and moved to start another company.

3. With the exception of the horns, which Eric took with him, all of IDs products are the same. They come from the same factory, the same manufacturer, and they have the same quality. The IDMax and IDQ drivers are still made in the USA. Let me rephrase: they have the same products they did when Eric and Matt were running the place. They still sell some of the best subs, amps, and components money can buy. If I had the money, I'd be running ID amps.

 

The thing that bothers me about people who refuse to buy from them just because Eric and Matt left is that they don't realize that they're hurting the rest of the employees that worked for that company and did an excellent job all these years. So long as they are still selling the same products and that their quality is just the same as it used to be, I will continue buying and recommending ID products. When that changes, so will my recommendations. There were suspicions that they'd suddenly all of their production offshore and stoop to chinese quality levels. That hasn't happened yet. When I receive word that their quality and performance has taken a turn for the worse, I will abandon their products.

 

I know exactly what happened, and I also know Eric personally. I stand by my story, and would thank you NOT to try and be condesending to me. "bought out" was a blanket term. I stand by my friend, not what a self appointed guru on w-body.com tries to tell me.

[Garrett Powered]

For you, I'm sure it will be loud enough. You're looking at 2.5x the cone area as an 8" bazooka sub, and more excursion to boot. I can design a box for sure. I'll try to get around to it tomorrow or the day after. Better jump on that sub before it sells out.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

careful! the frequency response of 30 hz lowest is a good indicator in those closeout flea market 12"s show that the speaker has no real advantage over an 8" woofer. 30 hz can easily be achieved by an 8" speaker. and if you build your own bazooka tube with those concrete formers you can destroy those 12" t3's with a single 8 no matter how many you buy. using linear excursion in a sealed tube.

[xtremerevolution]

I know exactly what happened, and I also know Eric personally. I stand by my story, and would thank you NOT to try and be condesending to me. "bought out" was a blanket term. I stand by my friend, not what a self appointed guru on w-body.com tries to tell me.

 

I wasn't trying to be condescending. How many people do you think actually know what happened? Most people just say "bought out" without knowing the whole story. It became some underdog fan club with some people. Its never a one way street with businesses. Regardless of what happened, my point remains. You screw over everyone who still works there. Its not like Eric and Matt up and created a brand new self-started company and re-hired everyone they used to employ. I'm not telling you to buy ID products; I really don't care what you do with your money, but keep in mind those you're intentionally screwing over. I understand your loyalty, but I also understand your inherent bias since he's your personal friend. He was never my personal friend. I was a customer, and as a customer, if they provide the same level of service and they sell the exact same products with the exact same components, I'm going to keep buying and recommending them until that changes.

 

As for your comment, I don't appreciate it. I never insulted you, and if you have any level of dignity, you shouldn't have insulted me. I'm not a "self-appointed guru." I'm not the most knowledgeable person in the world, but I know what I'm doing and I do good work. To imply otherwise is an insult. I've done nothing but try to help you this entire time. I admit when I'm wrong and stand corrected when I am corrected, but I'm not an idiot and I didn't just suddenly show up and tell everyone I'm an expert. I've modeled over 200 sub boxes in this past year alone for free and dozens of people came back to tell me that their boxes sounded exactly how I predicted they would. I personally model sub boxes for the owners of a couple of install shops and one guy comes to me for advice every time his store picks up a new driver he hasn't heard of to ask my opinion, and when he ends up using it, my predictions end up being correct.

 

Then again, I don't need to sit here and defend myself.

 

careful! the frequency response of 30 hz lowest is a good indicator in those closeout flea market 12"s show that the speaker has no real advantage over an 8" woofer. 30 hz can easily be achieved by an 8" speaker. and if you build your own bazooka tube with those concrete formers you can destroy those 12" t3's with a single 8 no matter how many you buy. using linear excursion in a sealed tube.

 

Its listed as 30hz lowest because they have to put something up there. Any speaker can produce a 20hz tone. The question is at what volume. You'd find that if you tested that driver, it sounds like complete shit used up to 1000hz. Is not a midrange woofer. You won't find the same "specs" on T3's website. http://www.t3audio.com/core.mdv/T400.html

 

Not that its even worth anything to be able to play sub-30hz notes unless you're rocking organ music or making your car into a movie theater. The lowest I've ever tuned a ported box for automotive use is about 28hz, and that was more to control excursion and flatten the frequency response than to get output down to 28hz. I design home theater boxes down to 20hz tuning all the time because I know there are some movies (like black hawk down), that will unload a sub in no time.

 

I wouldn't call these closeout flea market 12s. Those who knew T3 when they first surfaced know that they made some good products. If the specs on the site are correct, and I have no reason to believe that they're not, there is no way in hell that an 8" sub in a sealed box will sound louder. It simply impossible. In order to produce bass, you need to move air. You do this via cone area, excursion, or both, and a variety of augmented output alignments such as bass reflex (porting), bandpass, tapped horns, transmission lines, etc. We're coming from an 8" sub that might have a total of 10mm linear xmax peak to peak, to a 12" sub that has 16.5mm of xmax. In case you're not aware, a typical 8" sub has about 200 square cm of cone area, while this 12" sub has just over 500 square cm of cone area. We're talking 2.5x the cone area and more than 1.5x the excursion, not to mention a definite increase in power handling.

 

I'll let the guy prove it to you himself. Since he knows his Bazooka sub is still working and he's building the ported box I spec'd him, he'll be able to tell you exactly how it sounds by comparison.

Edited January 2, 2012 by xtremerevolution

[Garrett Powered]

the question is at what volume will it play 20 hz. that is answered by the roll-off frequency. at the point a signal drops over 10 db in an octave. I know you know this, but I will go over it again briefly and be done.

 

a good designed cabinet will extend the lows and flatten the rolloff, not sharpen it... making the lows more audible instead of cutting them off and overcrowding midbass.

 

technology has allowed for the extension of these lows. its the reason many of the older designs have remained obsolete for the last 10 years. the obvious question I ask is why do you think they are unloading those 12"s off for so cheap?

[xtremerevolution]

the question is at what volume will it play 20 hz. that is answered by the roll-off frequency. at the point a signal drops over 10 db in an octave. I know you know this, but I will go over it again briefly and be done.

 

a good designed cabinet will extend the lows and flatten the rolloff, not sharpen it... making the lows more audible instead of cutting them off and overcrowding midbass.

 

technology has allowed for the extension of these lows. its the reason many of the older designs have remained obsolete for the last 10 years. the obvious question I ask is why do you think they are unloading those 12"s off for so cheap?

 

You are correct. For sealed boxes, you lower your box Qtc, which is done by either adding fill or enlarging the box. The way a sub is designed will also play significantly into what your final Q will be. Subs like the TC Sounds Epic 10 will have an amazingly low Q in a very, very small box (under .75 cubic feet), while other 10" subs will require a much larger box.

 

That said, I built speakers for my father in law earlier this year as floorstanding cabs which each hold two 4" high excursion woofers. The sound is linear down to 40hz with an F3 of 36hz and an F6 of 32hz. Incredible amount of bass out of 4" woofers, but you will hear them snap if you give them some serious movie LFE material. This goes back to my earlier point...

 

To create low frequency bass, you need output or excursion. You need less than half as much excursion out of a 12" sub than you do out of an 8" sub to produce the same frequencies at the same volume levels.

 

The subs in question are being unloaded so cheap because the company is either being bought out, restructuring, or who knows what. Perhaps they're coming out with an entirely new line and need to offload old stock. These are all things I've read about why these are showing up so cheap. All I know is they used to be a lot more expensive and these are flying off the shelves. In the time I created this thread, the 12" sub had just started selling and now is possibly no longer available, as you get an error when attempting to add 2 to a cart. There are subs that are made cheap like the Sony Xplod subs, which will not hold a candle to a good 8" sub, but this isn't one of those cases.

[Garrett Powered]

well I can accurately predict that an 8" sub with the low end roloff @20 hz will kill a 12" with a 30 hz one. I love parts express for always listing this spec even since I was a high school kid in the 90's they always refused to hide the specs. this way the consumer is protected and can buy with confidence.

[xtremerevolution]

well I can accurately predict that an 8" sub with the low end roloff @20 hz will kill a 12" with a 30 hz one. I love parts express for always listing this spec even since I was a high school kid in the 90's they always refused to hide the specs. this way the consumer is protected and can buy with confidence.

 

All sealed boxes will have some degree of rolloff. That's simply how sealed boxes work. I already modeled the T600 in a sealed box so you could see. Blue line is a raw model that you'd find with any other modeling software. Its characteristic of 12" subs in this price range. Feel free to verify this with unibox, winisd, bassbox, etc. Black line is the response with cabin gain transfer function factored in.

 

 

Give me an 8" sub, any 8" sub with complete T/S parameters provided, and I will post a box model with the same cabin gain transfer function and the same Qtc for you to compare to this. Keep in mind, we're now looking at an F3 of 29hz, F6 of 22hz, and an F10 of about 16hz with this sub. Keep in mind, lowest note on a bass guitar is 41hz, and rarely does material go audibly below 30hz.

Edited January 3, 2012 by xtremerevolution

[Rick]

You guys lost me with all these words your using, but right now the project looks like a GO with me and my friend, if he ends up bailing before the purchase anyway I plan on still going through with it and am just waiting on a final eBay item to sell to see where my cash stands and if I can afford this whole project in full. Wont have a final answer until I talk to my shop teacher anyway and see if there is someway I can barrow the wood clamps for a weekend perhaps. Maybe he will even be willing to help with the build, who knows. Hopefully will know those answers tomorrow though.

 

Xtreme,

Im going with a single 400W T3 woofer, you said I would need ports, terminals and carpeting. Carpeting I have fine, this is what I was going to get for it, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=261-700

 

For the terminals, did you mean something like this?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-309

 

For the Amplifier im going with the model above mine, instead of the 5400, the 5500 which is virtually the same just a higher max watt output. RMS values are same to my knowledge.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-GM-5500T-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier-/360422487360?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item53eadab540

 

Lastly, as for the ports I dont know what size to get? Does it matter? Thanks

Edited January 3, 2012 by Rick

[Garrett Powered]

I take out the price and cabin gain variables and only look at what Hz the driver is able to reproduce for its cone area. no software is needed because it is listed in the catalog.

 

if it can not get the job done it usually goes on sale for very cheap.

[xtremerevolution]

You guys lost me with all these words your using, but right now the project looks like a GO with me and my friend, if he ends up bailing before the purchase anyway I plan on still going through with it and am just waiting on a final eBay item to sell to see where my cash stands and if I can afford this whole project in full. Wont have a final answer until I talk to my shop teacher anyway and see if there is someway I can barrow the wood clamps for a weekend perhaps. Maybe he will even be willing to help with the build, who knows. Hopefully will know those answers tomorrow though.

 

Xtreme,

Im going with a single 400W T3 woofer, you said I would need ports, terminals and carpeting. Carpeting I have fine, this is what I was going to get for it, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=261-700

 

For the terminals, did you mean something like this?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-309

 

For the Amplifier im going with the model above mine, instead of the 5400, the 5500 which is virtually the same just a higher max watt output. RMS values are same to my knowledge.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-GM-5500T-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier-/360422487360?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item53eadab540

 

Lastly, as for the ports I dont know what size to get? Does it matter? Thanks

 

Port size is very important. If I remember correctly I specified a 17" long 4" diameter port. Here's the one you need to buy for this box:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352

 

This makes building the box much easier as you don't have to worry about walls for a slot port, and the aero port style increases output too.

 

That carpet is fine.

 

That terminal looks good, but it might be able to cut a hole for a round one depending on what tools you have available to you.

 

I take out the price and cabin gain variables and only look at what Hz the driver is able to reproduce for its cone area. no software is needed because it is listed in the catalog.

 

if it can not get the job done it usually goes on sale for very cheap.

 

Cabin gain, when kept constant, will be irrelevant when comparing output at certain frequencies. That said, if the driver models a 20hz frequency response, you better bet it will output 20hz frequencies when played. What's listed in the catalog is flat out garbage. Call up PartsExpress if you don't believe me, and ask them if that driver will play a 20hz tone in a sealed box. It will certainly do it, and it will match what you model in software. Just because it says 30hz to 1000hz doesn't mean it will play only in those frequencies. In fact, it will probably sound like complete crap above 200hz. Most subwoofers do.

 

Here's more proof. The following driver is rated at 60hz to 10khz:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-212

 

However, Chris Roemer's NTN speakers, which I built for my father in law, extend happily below 40hz with those drivers. Explain that one. I ran a few test tones through those speakers and played a musical tone at 32hz. They were damn near linear down to 40hz and I didn't need a subwoofer with them. Keep in mind, we're talking just four 4" drivers, which are listed as being able to play only 60hz, digging down to the low 30s. The only specs that matter when determining what frequency those speakers will play is Fs, Vas, Qes, Qts, and Sd.

 

Feel free to peruse the thread if you don't believe me:

 

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=218177&highlight=ND105

Edited January 3, 2012 by xtremerevolution

[Rick]

I have been watching this woofer which has excellent reviews the last day or two, if it stays below $60 would this be worth snagging instead of the T3? Appears in good condition from the image, and seller says it does work with a 99%+ feedback rating.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boston-Acoustics-G212-44-12-Car-Subwoofer-/260923045788?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item3cc039b79c

 

Just asking out of curiosity, didnt think it would stay at a $30 bid considering its by Boston Acoustics which to me is a fairly reputable brand.

[xtremerevolution]

I have been watching this woofer which has excellent reviews the last day or two, if it stays below $60 would this be worth snagging instead of the T3? Appears in good condition from the image, and seller says it does work with a 99%+ feedback rating.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boston-Acoustics-G212-44-12-Car-Subwoofer-/260923045788?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item3cc039b79c

 

Just asking out of curiosity, didnt think it would stay at a $30 bid considering its by Boston Acoustics which to me is a fairly reputable brand.

 

Boston acoustic subs aren't that great. They make greats components and excellent amplifiers, but subwoofers are not their strong point. I certainly don't think that one is better than the T3 sub.

 

Its also used, and there's no way to know if it was abused. I'd walk away. I don't feel right about buying used subs from people I don't know anything about. Its different when you buy them on forums from people who know what they're doing.

 

Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

Edited January 3, 2012 by xtremerevolution

[Garrett Powered]

the single VC boston like that one would get you 400 watts @ 4 ohm. bridged using that pioneer amp.

[Rick]

Boston acoustic subs aren't that great. They make greats components and excellent amplifiers, but subwoofers are not their strong point. I certainly don't think that one is better than the T3 sub. Its also used, and there's no way to know if it was abused. I'd walk away. I don't feel right about buying used subs from people I don't know anything about. Its different when you buy them on forums from people who know what they're doing. Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk

 

These are the adapters I need since i only have one set of RCA outputs on my headunit in order to run two amps, correct? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-127 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-125

 

 

 

So from Parts Express this is what I have to be ordered as of right now. Am I missing anything? Shipping is $15 estimate for FedEX Home Delivery, so it would be cheaper to just purchase another $13 for Free Ship and receive more product (Only if friend doesn't purchase with me, otherwise free ship). Thanks EDIT: In the Picture I need (2) one female to two male rca's if im not mistaken, I changed that in checkout and wiped the one male to two female rcas but will leave the picture the same. Updated Picture Also added two terminal connections(comes as pair) http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=095-660

Edited January 4, 2012 by Rick