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subs and amps


GPdriver1986
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I'm really confused about this whole sub and amp combo. I was looking at the subs and amps on futureshop.ca. I found a Pioneer sub (12'' 800W, 10'' 700W) I want to get 2 10" pioneer subs or a comparable two comparable rockford subs. Do I have to buy a 2 channel amp or two mono amps? should I be looking at the total max power of the amp or output power for 2 ohms ,4ohms?

 

Can you guys post your sub and amp combos?

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i've got 2 pioneer 400w max 12's in a bandpass box, powered by a power acoustik 640w 4 channel amp, using only 2 channels, bridged @ 2 ohms. putting 320 max to the subs - they hit hard and sound great, very clear and a bandpass box makes them sound bigger than they really are. very happy with the pioneer speakers.

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I'm really confused about this whole sub and amp combo. I was looking at the subs and amps on futureshop.ca. I found a Pioneer sub (12'' 800W, 10'' 700W) I want to get 2 10" pioneer subs or a comparable two comparable rockford subs. Do I have to buy a 2 channel amp or two mono amps? should I be looking at the total max power of the amp or output power for 2 ohms ,4ohms?

 

Can you guys post your sub and amp combos?

 

You can use a mono block and just wire borth speakers into the same terminal. Look at the Ouput power for best results.

I use a MA Audio 1000w mono block amp and one sony exploid 10". (shitty sub I know)

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there are as many combos as there are products available.

 

at the moment for daily i run a tsunami db1100d on an elemental designs 15A.22. http://www.edesignaudio.com

i have ran that same amp on different subs for daily as well as a pair of them amps on that same elemental designs sub for competition.

 

many subs ratings as well as amp ratings are WLS ratings. when lightning strikes. the ratings may say it produces said power at said impedance. when in reality it may or may not do that. need to look deeper into the specs. same goes for power handling of subs. might be max power it can handle and not real power handling capabilities.

 

in general you get what you pay for with car audio gear. though not in all cases.

in the past i have ran dual subs. a couple years back i decided to save some trunk room and went to a higher quality single sub setup. and have not looked back. in a properly designed box the single sub can be just as impressive as multiple sub setups.

then again there are many more freqs to music then just the few that the sub plays.

 

Monty

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i got a sealed box holding 2 sony explod 10" subs hooked up to a 2 channel? 760W explod amp. People tell me explod sucks, then they hear my system and shut their mouths. Sound quality is awesome in my car. Running stock speakers as far as i know in the car.

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Ok, you want to look at RMS ratings for subs and amps. For your subs you can get 2 pioneers and wire it to 1 mono block amp. Aslong as your final ohm load is not too low so your amp fries. So if your amp is stable to 2 ohms, get 2 4 ohm single voice coil subs and hook up all the + together and then wire all the - together to bring your ohm load down to 2 ohms and it'll be fine! thats what my setup is right now with wiring!

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if your looking for good sounding bass, like the deep rich sounding bass get the pioneers, but if found if you want more boom and a little more beefy hard hitting bass, get kickers. i had a pioneer sub and that is good for loong deep bass but now with kickers they hit alot harder, but thats just my expierences and kickers are alot more expensive than pioneers, if you get a chance you should get a hold of the solobaric l7, those are nice subs, thats what i have, they can take alot of power and plus they hit harder than hell

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not to knock mainstream brands at all, but imho many of them are simply overpriced. either by too much hype and did not meetthe hype expectations or crap that was low priced and crappy performers.

imho the kicker squares either the L7 or the L5 are not great. too boomy sounding. and the boxes they recomend are too small to even come close to good sound. give them larger boxes and they improve, but still not worth the money they want. and they do not sound good to me. but for the comp lanes in SPL they do rather well.

 

pioneer is just about head units. i do not care for their subs. the rev speakers though are rather nice for the low price they want for them.

 

as i said before... spend a hundred each on a couple subs or spend a couple hundred on a single sub. i would take the single sub anyday. ease of install, ease of wiring, more impressive with the output.

 

just me though.

 

there are many coil configs for subs out there nowadays.

single, dual and quad coil configs available. quads are usually for the serious competitor though so i wil leave them out.

single coil is not as common as it once was since dual coils offer more options for wiring.

there are single 4 ohm, single 6, and single 8 ohm coils available.

there are dual 6, dual 4, dual 2, dual 1.4, and dual 1 ohm coils available.

 

for efficient power i would look at either class D or class T amps. many of them will do any impedance above 1ohm mono. some will do 2 ohm and above though.

 

so take a 2 sub setup.

if your sub has dual 4 ohm coils you have the option of 4 ohms or 1ohm. so shop for an amp that has power that is close to RMS for the 2 subs at either 4 or 1 ohm.

or mayb your subs have single 4 ohm coils. your only real world option is an amp that does RMS of the 2 subs at 2ohm. you do have an 8 ohm option but that would be a spendy amp to put out the rms power at 8ohms.

 

same goes for single sub setup.

sub has dual 2 ohm coils. you have the same 4 ohm and 1 ohm options. but this time your sub is prolly better quality and you can still look for a higher power amp that does the RmS at said impedance.

 

but always shop around. local shops usually work with good customers and repeat customers. plus you get great and fast warranty if needed.

then again some companies are web only sales. that is the case for the sub i run.

 

though alot of power is not always needed for some subs to get SIC loud.

this is where box design is important.

ported boxes are larger but they are also louder when compared to same power same sub applications. so that single sub ported could easily be pretty loud for what it is.

 

i would recomend joining a good car audio forum to get some education.

 

Monty

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I'm sure most of the sales staff at futureshop or bestbuy will help me choose a good sub and amp. But I'm looking at probably buying two 10'' subs or maybe (1) 12'' sub. but I don't know what brand I should buy, I have some in my mind : sony, pioneer, kenwood, or Rockford (cheaper model). I tried (at futureshop) a single 10" or 12'' (i forget) wired to a MTX amp , it had some pretty decent bass for the price.

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word of advice...since u r buying at future shop, make sure you buy the extended warranty. Worked for me, my deck fucked up, and no questions asked they installed a brand new one in like 10 min. So for the 80 bucks I spent on the warranty i got a brand new deck in 10 min rather than having to send if off for repair and be without a deck for up to 30 days! I am definetly glad I bought it for 80 bucks! To me it's worth it! just FYI

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Guest RedCutlassSL

sony xplode does suck. nothing good about. sound quality is ass, and as for durability, it doesn't exist. my friends amp, 760w, has been serviced 3 times now. POS. another person i know, the deck blew out. the speakers always blow out. i love sony, but not mobile audio sony

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I know sony sucks, I just wanted to make sure their subs suck too. I asked the guy at futureshop what was a better sub sony or pioneer. He said sony, I didn't say anything back, I would pick the Pionner over sony any day.

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For my setup I have 2 Cadence 12-2s in a 4 cube box, powered by a 300 watt visonik amp. The Cadence are 2 ohm subs and the Visonik amp puts out 110 watts to each channel for a 2 ohm load. It sounds pretty good for the money I spent, which was only $233. The box helps a lot, since each sub needs only 1.5 cubes each, and I have my subs firing towards the back of the car. I think the sound you get is more in the install than the components. That's just my opinion though.

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