94vertluvr Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 I believe the tranny on the 3.4 dohc is the 4t60e...will the tranny out of my 3.1 bolt right up to the 3.4 dohc engine and will it require any mods to do? Curious if anyone has a quick answer on this please? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 (edited) ANSWER: the gear ratios are different. 3.1/3100 = 3.33 FDR (in a w-body, others WILL differ) 3.4 = 3.43 HOWEVER... you can use a different ratio with little or no issue in a car that is OBD 1 or 1.5, but NOT OBD 2. I'm guessing you are talking about a 94 CS vert? and the other car???? IF both cars are same year[assuming 94?] W-bodies(other platforms WILL NOT WORK), you can do it, but you'll see about a 5% difference in the RPM to speed. using a 3.1/3100 tranny in a 3.4 it will make the car a bit slower off the line, but give you better highway gears... , Edited September 30, 2010 by Crazy K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 depends on the year... 91-93 3.4 use a trans with a simple p/n switch and no PWM TCC operation 94-96 3.4 use a trans with a more complicated p/n setup and have PWM TCC operation. 97 3.4 use a 4T65E, which isn't going to directly interchange in place of a 4T60E 93 was the first year for a 3.1 to use a 4T60E, and the only one in 1994 to even still use the 3.1 was the lumina. a 93 and 94 3.1 4T60E SHOULD work with a 91-93 3.4 3100s always had a 4T60E until 2000, and used roughly the same trans minus TC, FDR and chain drive, but 3.33 vs 3.43 is close enough to work. all of the 3100 4T60Es has the more complicated p/n switch and PWM TCC operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 best thing yet... give us the exact cars involved. year, make, model, ENGINE VIN CODE. The 3.1 and the 3100 are DIFFERENT engines, as some people don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Both cars are 94 olds cutlass convertibles; one has the 3.1 which I'm probably going to eventually take off the road and just restore the 94 with the 3.4 dohc which has a much better body and interior overall and all the cutlass options for 1994. I was hoping that the tranny's would just switch easily but it sounds like it may be a little more complicated to do so from some of the above posts. I talked with the tranny mechanic today and he said he'd charge around $600 to swap them out if i wanted to OR if he just rebuilt the one already in the 3.4 he charges between $1k and $1200 to do so. The tranny that works good and is sound has 144k miles on it so I might just be better off rebuilding the one already in it. What do you all think about it? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 being a 94, it has a 3100, not a 3.1. you should be able to literally drop one in place of the other. the MINOR difference between 3.33 and 3.43 shouldn't cause any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Hey Robert; do you think then that I would notice the difference in the gear ratio that Crazy K mentioned? Would there b an appreciable difference off the line? Also, with the good tranny already having 144k miles on it would I still get some good life out of it? And thanks for straightening me out on the 3100; man just when you think you have it all figured out! LOL You screw it up! Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 3.43/3.33 = 3% difference..... i highly doubt you'll be able to feel it. at 70MPH in 4th gear with the torque convertor locked with 26.3" tires, you'll turn ~2146RPM with the 3.43 gears and ~2083 with the 3.33 gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Acceleration will be slightly slower. Noticeable, maybe a little. Not like having a brick in your intake, but may seem ever so slightly slower than the car already is. Cruising around will be nice though. RPM's may drop a bit, which will lower engine noise, exhaust noise, and increase MPG's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Even a drop of 50 RPM can make enough of a difference in economy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Thanks guys! BUT what do you think about the wisdom of swapping the trannys and putting in the one with the 144k miles already on it? Is that a wise decision in your opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 If you are pulling it, take it in for a rebuild. A good majority of the $1500 (normal) quote for a rebuild is removing and installing the transmission. Parts and labor to actually work on the trans, I bet, is $400-ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 If you are pulling it, take it in for a rebuild. A good majority of the $1500 (normal) quote for a rebuild is removing and installing the transmission. Parts and labor to actually work on the trans, I bet, is $400-ish. x2 Also find out if it would be cheaper for you to buy your own parts. Last time I checked a 4t60e rebuild kit was just shy of $200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 what is wrong with the current transmission? would you be ahead just taking that one in to rebuilt? even if you pull and install it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 The current transmission is shifting very hard into gear when you first put it into D or R it kind of clunks when you first put it into either gear. I'm told the biggest part of the job of these tranny's are the deinstall and then the install once it's rebuilt; from talking with a transmission mechanic he said you have to remove a couple things to get it out that it wasn't as simple as unbolting it and dropping it out from under the car. Do you or anyone know how hard a job it would be to take the tranny out? Might come out a lot cheaper if I took it out and then took it in for repair. Thanks. what is wrong with the current transmission? would you be ahead just taking that one in to rebuilt? even if you pull and install it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 You're describing a classic symptom of a bad or disconnected vacuum modulator, with a non-functioning modulator, transmission line pressures are at maximum... You might want to check that out, it would cost less than $20.00, and might save you some work AND money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Oh WOW! Thanks man! That'd be great if that's all it is/was!! I have it at another mechanic (4th one) and will call him first thing in the morning to make sure he checks that out! Appreciate it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) that sounds like it is NOT a transmission issue, but rather the need for a new mount somewhere..... get help from a friend and have them shift the car into D and R while you observe the movement of the engine. VACUUM MODULATOR: it is located on the front face of the transmission, kind of below the airbox area visual check: is the line to it plugged in? it the other end of the line plugged into the intake? condition check: unplug the line and turn the nipple/port face down. if fluid comes out, replace. Edited October 7, 2010 by Crazy K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 I will mention that to him as well...thanks! I did feel when it clunked that something felt like it 'gave' a little is the best I can describe it, like something may have been loose or maybe a mount moving come to think of it. You guys are really helpful to bounce stuff like this off of! I really need to get to the bottom of this as it's driving me crazy! Anything else anyone can think of for me to get checked out feel free to chime in! that sounds like it is NOT a transmission issue, but rather the need for a new mount somewhere..... VACUUM MODULATOR: it is located on the front face of the transmission, kind of below the airbox area visual check: is the line to it plugged in? it the other end of the line plugged into the intake? condition check: unplug the line and turn the nipple/port face down. if fluid comes out, replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Where are you located? Maybe someone local can help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Thanks AL! I'm near Greenville, SC! Where are you located? Maybe someone local can help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 I don't think there is anyone close to you... Is your car at the shop right now? Or can you check that line? I don't think I have a picture of an automatic 3.4 engine bay handy but if someone does they can circle that line that we were talking about on the front of the trans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 That'd be great if someone could do that; and yes it is at the shop right now so I will have him check - I'm hoping he's a little more competent than the last one that was working on the engine! I figured since most on here are from up north that I was probably all alone! lol I will encourage anyone I know who has a W body to check our forum out...very helpful! Thanks AL! I don't think there is anyone close to you... Is your car at the shop right now? Or can you check that line? I don't think I have a picture of an automatic 3.4 engine bay handy but if someone does they can circle that line that we were talking about on the front of the trans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94vertluvr Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 You were RIGHT Ken! The problem was related to the vacuum modulator!! The guy who replaced my engine with another 3.4L did NOT plug it in!! I drove this car for the first time on Friday! I bought it end of July with a complete body with a stripped down motor; not having drove it at all for $600; thinking it would be a good parts car for my other vert BUT it actually came with ALL available options for the 94 3.4 vert's, HUD included AND all of them WORK! Amazing! I decided to fix or replace the motor and I replaced it with what was described as a low mileage 3.4L; after it was installed it had VERY poor power which the mechanic said was the tranny. Hauled it to the transmission mechanic; he drove it and said you have an engine problem; not sure what it is but that needs fixed before we can look at the transmission. After a little research as to why I didn't have power; I really felt I had a clogged catalytic converter problem; so I loaded it up and drove it straight from the transmission mechanic to a muffler shop; he cut the converter out of this 94 and welded a straight pipe in place of - he said it was about 1/2 clogged. I started it up and drove it back on to the trailer with a noticeable improvement in power but had a big time clunking of the transmission when putting it in D or R. I then hauled it to a guy close to my house who said he'd find the problem; in 2 days he did AND he only charged me $20 to do it! I changed all the fluids Saturday and drove it ALL day today; the transmission is a LOT more improved; the power is good; the family enjoyed a day with the top down!!! So, thanks to ALL who has offered up help on my new project; awesome forum; will post pics and improvements as time goes on!!! NOW, I'm looking into why the alternator is not charging the battery!! LOL and the fun continues!!! that sounds like it is NOT a transmission issue, but rather the need for a new mount somewhere..... get help from a friend and have them shift the car into D and R while you observe the movement of the engine. VACUUM MODULATOR: it is located on the front face of the transmission, kind of below the airbox area visual check: is the line to it plugged in? it the other end of the line plugged into the intake? condition check: unplug the line and turn the nipple/port face down. if fluid comes out, replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I love it when a plan comes together...glad it's fixed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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