carkhz316 Posted August 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 ^Alright. Thanks much!!!!! In a few posts back, you mentioned about using the 97-98 alternator bracket with whichever alty I'm using. Well, I'd like to use my current 98 one so I don't have to buy another one since the L67 donor is the newer style. But if I do that, then it requires the use of the aforementioned cylinder head mounted bracket. Also, I figured out that I could use use my L36 coil bracket as it is identical to my L67 one, sans the idler pulley:dance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 Anyone ever go with Iridium plugs of any brand? I'm kinda sold on 'em since that's what everything says is stock in these things (the AC Delco's anyway). I haven't had a problem with 'em in this car or my pickup. Are they worth it? And what temp ones so they are the equivalent one step colder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 Id just run AL104's they are one range colder, people have been running them for Years with no problems, Why be the odd duckling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 And ill get that pic, its just been pouring ass rain today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 (edited) I found some Autolite 104's but of the Iridium variety? Are they worth it at all? Not trying to be an odd duck, lol. Oh and I got my stuff together using my original Alternator brackets, kinds had to persuade stuff to fit: There's a bar that goes on the front and bolts down on the coil pack bracket. Well, it wouldn't initially clear the blower snout, but with a few wacks of a hammer it does. And I have to plug the injectors in on the back side, then bolt that other alty bracket down as there is now room to plug the injectors in once it's bolted down. Everything seems alright so far. Thanks again Addicted to Eaton and AL for sticking with me on this thread.:worshippy: Edited August 21, 2010 by carkhz316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 Not a problem! I will be doing this someday lol so I am trying to get all the pointers I can from someone who has done it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdman Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 id stick with good ole copper 104's. and there 2 heat ranges colder BTW. the other option is the ngk tr-55's i believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 Here she is as of today. Just ordered my BBV wire kit thing/ MAP extension and some SC oil from ZZP, also some AL104's and wire set, belts and 180* Stat from RA. Pic 2 and 3 is the bracket that I had to bend a bit to clear the blower snout. Last is the injector buried beneath the fuel rail and back side alty bracket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highmilagecutlass Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 I would recommend dropping the oil pan and inspecting it for sludge and put a new oil pump. It's so much easier to do out of the car:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Maybe im blind, But its IN the car LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 (edited) I may end up doing that soon if I decide to do the HD differential swap. I know my oil pan gasket weeps, so I may end up dropping the cradle and lettin 'er down a bit too to replace that as well. As far as the sludge, I know that the heads and valve covers can be somewhat of an indicator of sludge buildup and there is little-to-no sludge present in mine. Spending the few extra dollars for Synthetic pays off:thumbsup: Edited August 25, 2010 by carkhz316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Hey, I'm in a little bit of a bind, I think. I hope more people look at this and can offer any assistance. The PCM I got was from a 2000 GTP, flashed by 3800performance.com with their GTP v.1.0 flash/ tuning. I didn't have any of this done. The guy I got it from had it done, so I was told. I emailed 3800performance.com asking them if it would work for a bone stock top-swap project and they simply replied with "Chevy and Pontiac PCM's are not interchangeable, so no it will not work." Is this true? Do I need another PCM then? Everywhere else I have read says that only a L67-equipped car's PCM is needed. Anyone care to share any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Id have one custom tuned. Where are you located. and If its from a gtp, and your putting it in a GT i do not see why it wouldn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruktosk Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 "Chevy and Pontiac PCM's are not interchangeable, so no it will not work." WTF?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Id have one custom tuned. Where are you located. and If its from a gtp, and your putting it in a GT i do not see why it wouldn't work. Well, it's going in my 98 Monte Carlo Z34, soooo I don't know if that makes a difference or not. But I am interested in your PCM. Details? Located in MN, 56482. WTF?? That's what I thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 What i meant to say was i would have one custom tuned. Seach Clubgp for a local tuner, it would be 100-150$ Well spent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 Oops. I don't know how to read. You typed it correct in your post. Ya, I'll probably be hitting up ClubGP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 I don't see why it wouldn't work. I have no idea what they are talking about, with PCM's not interchanging, that's ridiculous. And X2 on the custom tuning, I plan to have the same thing done on my TGP if it ever gets finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 Thanks man! That's what I wanted to hear. The whole Chevy/ Pontiac interchange just didn't make sense. The only chevy L67 cars would be 2004-2005 monte and impalas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 I emailed them back earlier in the day regarding the PCM interchangability; if I needed to get a L67 equipped chevy PCM, and this was their reply: "Every year vehicle requires a different PCM as well as make and model also. Each PCM is different for all cars" I don't know. It's kinda vague to me. They're not seeming to be much help. Whatever, I'll try firing my car up with the PCM I got. Worst case scenario is that it won't start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 It RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!! And pretty decent too, for the most part. It actually started up on the first try, gurgled for a few seconds, and then straightened right out and purred. Went for a short drive after idling in the garage for about 10 minutes. Here's where I need help (will be submitting to clubgp for assistance as well). Anything after light throttle, it just cuts out and misses and stumbles. I've gotten to ~60mph and under light throttle its fine. As soon as I try to stab it and go, it starts misfiring. Also, when the TC should lockup, it just hunts. It didn't do this before. I may have a leaking vacuum and/ or boost line. Gonna go through everything tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 lets start with the misfire. Coils ok? Spark plugs ok? how are the plug wires? you get the plugs right Front bank is 1-3-5 Back bank is 2-4-6 TC has always done that in every s/c car i have seen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Running my L36 coils; which were pulled in perfect working order. New AC Delco wireset. New AL XP104's Correct wiring/ firing order. No check engine light. Oh, and it seems to run just fine revving it up to the rev limiter in park or nuetral. Just under any load does it start to cut out. Just realized something though. Still rocking 1/4 tank of midgrade gas. BUT, I never goosed it for more than a second. and only cruised a couple miles with it under light throttle. About the hunting though, it seems like it quit and finally shifted, but only after 5-10 seconds of doing it. Really annoying, and would like to correct it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 (edited) I'm cheap and I use 89 octane in my GTP, I used 87 a couple times when I was going on long trips, but if I did WOT the knock retard was so bad that I lost most of the power. I've got my stock L67 PCM that we could try just to rule out the PCM and the tune. Maybe that tune doesn't like the higher compression of the L36, especially when you start adding boost to the mix, you may NEED to run full 91 or 92 octane. As for the TC issue, I guess I'm at a loss, my GTP has never had any problems locking up. Once it shifts to 4th (under normal driving, not WOT) it locks up almost instantly just as it should. Edited August 28, 2010 by Dark Ride Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to eaton Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 Lets see here. What size pulley are you running, With no mods to the exhaust/intake etc. You need to be running like a 4.0-4.2. a 3.8 pulley on a n/a bottom end is kind of like running a 3.4 on a stock gtp. Its stupid to say the least. As for cutting out, i still say its 1 of 3 things, Gap on spark plugs (gap to .55-.60) Plug wires on incorrect or bad, or a bad coil. But a tune is a big thing, i just don't see it causing a misfire. as for the tq, Every 3800 supercharged car i have drove kinda hunts, it moves the rpm like 100-200rpm back and forth around 45mph trying to decide if it wants to lock or not. Most i have seen do it up a little hill at 1/4 throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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