Garrett Powered Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 I need to decide where to install that sensor laying on the table. Its a Innovative lc1 wideband O2 for tuning. I plan on using the flange here and the first crush bend then flare it out to 2.5 mandrel bends and pipe out the back. I already have the catback from the group buy. The DP can be finished later. What would be the drawbacks of mounting the resonator here? I know it would still leave me room for an aftermarket cat in the stock position there if we get emissions testing. but right now that is not an immediate concern. I guess I could have it after the cat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 I would place the cat first like a typical exhaust setup. On my black car, I have a magnaflow cat where the stock one used to be and a resonator in the stock 1st gen location for a resonator(near the gas tank). As for the wideband, I would probably place it no more than a few inches from the turbo in the downpipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 That might be a convenient spot. they aren't sensitive to too much heat? with replacing that one pipe though, should I just keep that flange and adapt it from 2.25" to 2.5" pipe after that first bend? or just get a new flange made to bolt to the downpipe made out of 2.5 the whole way there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 http://www.globaltecheng.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?SFID=2||4||1||6&SFNAME=Gauge||Material+of+Construction||Size||Center+Line+Radius&SFVID=2||25||12||30&SFVALUE=16||Aluminum||2.5%22||4.0%22&SFCount=3&page=0&pageStyle=h&idcategory=65&VS1=0&VS2=0&VS4=0&VS3=0&VS6=0 how do I know what CLR and degree of these bends so I can narrow my search for the bends at the above link? again the pipe: found this pipe flaring tool. came along with the used tool chest I recently bought. I need to flare that out to 2.5" right after the first bend. then I need the CLR and degree of choice to order the MB to have a starting point for my catback flange to weld to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-41961/ ordering this to make it easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 That might be a convenient spot. they aren't sensitive to too much heat? Look at where the stock o2 is placed. Heat isn't an issue for the o2 sensor. In almost every wideband install on a turbo car I've seen, the o2 is placed no more than a foot away from the turbo. To measure the angles on those bends, get yourself a protractor or print a picture of one. This article has a short blurb of info on using a protractor to find your angle. http://www.ehow.com/how_4827824_use-pipe-bender.html Search "protractor" or "printable protractor" on google's image search and you can find some to print out. For the CLR, see the info at the bottom of this page: http://www.rorty-design.com/content/tube_work.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 Thats what I ended up doing for the most part. I traced the whole pipe on a piece of cardboard and grabbed the right angle. drew some 90s on it after extending out the lines, then made centerlines through them and on that axis started making 45's just using the right angle came up with a 60-65degree bend and 60s are $14.75. I just realized how to measure the CLR so I will be able to confirm that for 100% sure now.Just like the diagram from 5" away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 If it were me, I'd just pick up a few S bends from Summit or Jegs, cut off what you need, weld together, and be done with the downpipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 already checked summit could not find a 60 degree 2.5" MB pipe on that site at all. I have this part here I can order : http://www.globaltecheng.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=504&idcategory=65 anybody ordered from here? I could also check ebay motors I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 great, the shipping is $15 and the bend is $15 so for $30 I can get one bend. I guess I will look around a little bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250477770865&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190323818684&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT bought this stuff off ebay. now I can build off the downpipe with a new flange. and half of the downpipe will be 2.5 and have the wideband bung welded to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2009 got some bends in the mail. random set of ten 2.5" mandrel bend pieces for $50 shipped to be specific. then ground the tips slightly with the correct leg lengths selected and coupled with some silicone for now. I was surprised for some reason that was pretty easy and cost effective so far. I can get it all welded up and clamp it to the stock flange 7" down and mock it up in the car. then I will connect it to the rest of the exhaust. I got this stuff coming in the mail right now too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170369284876&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380147081276&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 Will you be putting any type of flex-pipe in it, or just all one solid piece (once welded)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted August 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 Its in the mail. did the link I had above work? I got the steel v-band yesterday. the flex bellow should be here this week. I had to because the flange that comes on it stock allows the downpipe to twist and flex a little bit and the v-band flange is going to have no play at all once clamped. The plan is to move that flange/flex point to down after the s-bend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 I didn't pay attention to the links, just scanned over them. My bad. Looks like it is coming together pretty well. I'm interested in hearing the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killinprixs Posted August 22, 2009 Report Share Posted August 22, 2009 looks nice. i had my pipe cut higher on the dp where theres that "pinch". my dp was made with 3 inch pipe and it barely fits! also i dont have a fancy flex bellow or v band right now so your is definately more professional than mine but it does the job. my exhaust is a 4 foot long 3 inch with a truck muffler! you can definately feel the turbo boost harder ... those tgp DPs actually go into a 1.9 inch at one of the bends... nonsense for a turbo v6! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 we started building the jig today and made some progress on this. still got to cut and weld on a support tube that goes to the turbine housing in order to keep the turbo flange straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twalt13 Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 looks good, keep up the good work!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2009 looks good, keep up the good work!!! thanks. here is everything I have collected so far. almost complete catless tgp 2.5" system for track use only . need to weld in the v-band flange and the flex bellow at the end of the dp. I layed everything out for a pic, but the resonator will probably be welded in back just before the Y I guess just in case I want to get it street legal later on and stick a cat in the stock location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 finally made a bit of progress and got the tips attached where they need to be. why they had to go crazy with the mounts on tgp's when they designed the exhaust and use 7 rubber mounts! I dont know, but that was a lot of welding and fabricating involved. fun though. I still have to tweek the ends so the tips point out the right angle but as of now I have it all mocked up for the cat back and all original mounts bolted in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 and the 2.5 downpipe for my WBO2 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 Lookin good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted October 28, 2009 Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 crazy! need vid of sound when you are done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 got the wideband controller hooked up and running on the car this evening. not on the black car but now I know exactly how and once the red car is tuned I can swap it over. found out from looking at cobracdr's install on the white 88 gpse and instructions from turbo v-sick, and it went pretty good. hacking into the ecm plugs can be hair raising for someone that has not done it before on one of these. so I took pics along the way. at first it looked like pin C-21 was the lt green wire but shown here in the big gm service manual that wire is the map. first pic here is the "C" wire harness with C-21 installed. next with the red clip removed on the back you can see on the top right by the green wire the C-21 hole was plugged with a little silicone plug I pulled out partially. Its hard to see but this will be the wideband 0-5 volt signal. I clipped off a little piece of steel wire from a spool of rebar tie-wire. worked perfect for pushing a clip out of a donor socket. the second pic kinda sucks but you can see the pin socket I pushed out of the plug off to the right of the plug. came out in nice shape so I used it and it snapped right into the empty C-21 hole and then I replaced the red clip. took a switched power source from the bottom of the fuse panel and ran those two jumper wires through some loom because they need to go to the driver side of the engine bay. I used one of those black spike wire taps for the red wire because I did not have one of the fuse blade taps that mount on top. but this way it made everything remain stock looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 nice install.. More on those wire taps.. i havent seen those before.. do you have a link to them or something... they are way cleaner looking than any other tap i have seen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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