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Just wondering, but why do people get 180 degree thermostats?

 

How does it improve performance?

 

It seems like the heat would help the engine,

 

cold oil = bad right?

 

so what's wrong with a 200 degree thermostat?

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Ok. Say you're having cake.

 

You definitely want some, because just a few crumbs will STARVE you.

 

But you also don't want a vat of boiling cake to run down the back of your throat, do you?

 

It's a happy medium.

 

If the oil is too cold, it will starve the top end at startup, etc.

 

If it's too hot, it looses it's lubricating properties.

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simply put. a 180 degree thermostat would be fine if the fan turn on temps were changed to reduce the heat shock the engine could suffer when you are sitting in traffic and the temps rise to the pre-programmed temp setting. Also, 195 is an ideal temperature for maximum fuel efficiency.

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I'll get a thermostat sometime soon, but I have a question. When my fans didn't work, the temperature would still drop to 150 once I got moving. How would the thermostat cause that? I'm going to get that regardless, but...

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When you are moving, Air is flowing in through the front of your car, through the radiator and around the engine, and out the fender wells and underside of the car. That cools it down pretty significantly.

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When you are moving, Air is flowing in through the front of your car, through the radiator and around the engine, and out the fender wells and underside of the car. That cools it down pretty significantly.

 

I know, that's what I'm saying. If it runs at 150 just because of the radiator flow, how is a thermostat going to fix my problem?

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Good! :high5:

 

When it gets too hot, the thermostat opens up letting coolant run through the radiator. When even that isn't enough to keep it cool(in town driving, etc) the fans kick on to artificially move air through the radiator.

 

Then when it cools back down... the thermostat will close up. It keeps the optimum temperature, ya see? :mrgreen:

 

When you start a car when it is cold, the engine dumps extra fuel to try to get it warmed up. It is most efficient when warm. If the thermostat is always stuck open, it takes MUCH longer to warm up, sometimes not at all in the winter, returning worse MPG numbers.

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That sure would explain my 12 MPG runs :lol:

 

Yes, why yes it would! :lol:

 

Does your torque converter sometimes not want to loack up? When the t-stat stuck open in my old 6000, the TC wouldn't lock up since the engine wouldn't come up to temp, compounding the fuel milage degredation.

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That sure would explain my 12 MPG runs :lol:

 

Yes, why yes it would! :lol:

 

Does your torque converter sometimes not want to loack up? When the t-stat stuck open in my old 6000, the TC wouldn't lock up since the engine wouldn't come up to temp, compounding the fuel milage degredation.

 

No, no problems with the TC. I got 25.8 MPG one tank, but then it's back to the very inconsistent teens.

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When I first got my 89 5-spd, the car would barely get above 100* on the gauge and the heat wasn't very warm at all. If I let it sit and idle for 10 minutes, it would get up to 200*.

Went and bought a new 195* T-stat for it for $5 and threw it in, and voila, runs at normal temps and had heat that would cook you out of the car! Car got upper 30's MPG. :cool:

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When I first got my 89 5-spd, the car would barely get above 100* on the gauge and the heat wasn't very warm at all. If I let it sit and idle for 10 minutes, it would get up to 200*.

Went and bought a new 195* T-stat for it for $5 and threw it in, and voila, runs at normal temps and had heat that would cook you out of the car! Car got upper 30's MPG. :cool:

 

My heat works great when it actually gets up to 150, but most of the time on the way to school it doesn't. I know that's not good on it but it's only a five mile commute. I let it warm up for a few minutes before I ever drive it though.

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