greencutlassdrvr Posted December 13, 2007 Report Share Posted December 13, 2007 Take your time and try and remember when things go My biggest flaw right there x2 especially when doing drum brakes lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted December 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2007 unfortunatly it is my DD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RYS Posted December 14, 2007 Report Share Posted December 14, 2007 Shop time is 3.5 hrs give or take. They should charge about 120 for the alt plus 150 for labor. 3.4L Engine NOTE: Vehicles with the 3.4L engine will also be equipped with an alternator cooling fan behind the right side headlight, used to cool the unit through a duct hose. AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE VEHICLES THROUGH 1994 1.Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2.Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3.Remove the serpentine belt. 4.Remove the coolant recovery reservoir and set it aside. 5.Unfasten the upper alternator stud nut and remove the power steering pipe retaining clip from the stud. 6.Loosen the upper alternator stud. 7.Raise and safely support the vehicle. 8.Remove the front tire and wheel assemblies. 9.Unfasten the right engine splash shield upper retaining clips, then pull down the shield. 10.Remove the upper alternator stud. 11.Remove the cotter pin and lower ball joint castle nut from the right lower ball joint, then separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. 12.Remove the metal halfshaft shield retaining screws, then remove the shield. 13.If equipped, detach the knock sensor electrical connector. 14.Disconnect the right halfshaft from the transaxle. 15.Remove the front exhaust pipe and converter assembly. 16.Unfasten the lower alternator mounting bolt. 17.Remove the alternator rear brace-to-alternator bolt. The bolt can best be accessed using a 4 ft. (1.2m) extension through the left side wheel well opening. 18.Remove the alternator rear brace nut from the engine. The nut can be best accessed through the right wheel well behind the alternator. 19.Remove the alternator from the mounting bracket. 20.Detach the electrical connector from the alternator. 21.Unfasten the battery wire nut from the alternator stud, then disconnect the battery positive lead from the alternator output terminal. 22.Remove the alternator from the vehicle. Alternator mounting  1993 3.4L engine shown To install: 23.Attach the alternator electrical connector and battery wire to the alternator. Tighten the mounting nut on the battery wire to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm). 24.Position the alternator and loosely install the mounting bolts. If the replacement alternator does not fit into the bracket, remove the adhesive-backed shim from the rear of the alternator bracket. 25.Install the alternator rear brace, cooling duct bracket and mounting. Access the bolt through the left wheel opening using a 4 ft. (1.2m) extension. 26.Tighten the mounting bolts as follows: Rear brace bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) Rear brace nut to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) Lower mounting bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) 27.Install the remaining components in the reverse of the removal procedure. Make sure all components are tightly secured. 28.Connect the negative battery cable. Follow the instructions exactly and you should have no problem. I don't think you really have to torque these bolts down. HOPE THIS HELPS YOU! If you have trouble with remembering where things go, take pictures before you disassemble things. I do this, that way if there is a problem just go back to your pics and problem solved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted December 14, 2007 Report Share Posted December 14, 2007 Wow $700 is a LOT of money. You could buy a set of wheels with that. Damn, even a whole new suspension. It doesn't seem to hard once you read all about it. Just keep rereading the notes and instruction and have at it. I couldnt imagine being that hard. I saw my buddy do it twice on Christine. I'm just damn lazy and he wanted to help. I guess I just got lucky with nothing to do on a week night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted December 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2007 which one is the belt tensioner and how do i losen it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RYS Posted December 14, 2007 Report Share Posted December 14, 2007 Its the one that has like a spring on it. It's got a square spot in the middle to fit a socket wrench. You put the socket wrench in and turn it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted December 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2007 so the tensioner is the one on top? by the cams (A) or the pulley on the inside of the serpentine belt.( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted December 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 the freaking rear sub frame bolt wont come off . any ways to break it lose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 Try harder, use ONLY a 6 point socket. maybe a breaker bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greencutlassdrvr Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 wd40+breakerbar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89GP_SE Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 wd40+breakerbar and use your foot for more power, i do that all the time at junkyards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 PB Blaster > wd40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greencutlassdrvr Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 thats the name i was thinking bout that one but couldnt member the namelol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z34duck Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 how did you make out ? good 6 point socket usually an impact one big ass breaker bar and maybe a pipe for extra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RYS Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 Yea PB b'laster blows the doors off wd-40 I just started using it and it works every time. If you take your ratchet and put a pipe over the end of it it will break any bolt loose or break the bolt altogether so be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted December 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2007 thx for the help it much appreciated. ive got the belt off but still tryin to get the rear sub frame bolt off, my buddy is coming over tommarow with his tools to see if we can get it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted December 17, 2007 Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 This process does not require lowering the subframe. Attempts to remove subframe bolts may cause breakage of the subframe bolts!! 1. Remove serpentine belt 2. Jack and support car 3. Remove front right wheel 4. Remove front right brake and assembly 5. Using a 35 (or 36)mm socket, remove hub nut 6. Separate balljoint from lower control arm. Separate outer tie rod from knuckle assembly. Remove axle from hub bearing (you may have to pound it it. Pulling may separate halfshaft= bad news) 7. Remove 3 bolts from strut tower and remove knuckle assembly. 8. Remove halfshaft protective housing. 9. Remove halfshaft from the transmission. (I use a 10" prybar for this.) This should provide adequate space for the remaining of the removal. Reach up behind and near the middle of the car. There is a clip that holds the cooling duct to the alternator. Release the clip. There is a 10mm bolt on the back of the alternator. You can use 4 ft of extension (seriously) to remove. Wratchet wrenches are very useful for this project. THIS REAR BOLT WILL BE THE BIGGEST PITA TASK OF THIS JOB. (I have chosen to not replace the bolt and have had no problems with such. Many have done the same) Remove remaining 2 bolts, cable, and wire harness. I think that covers it all. Should take about 3 hours with air tools. I would guess about 4 hours without. Not really too complicated of a task, IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted December 17, 2007 Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 joey, how do you go about removing the one long bolt that hits on the inner framerail of the car if you don't lower the subframe to clear it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted December 17, 2007 Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 I was thinking that I had notched the frame just to get an impact on there.... yup. Guess you might as well add "Grind notch in frame" to the list. Didn't have to remove much at all. Hit with a little primer after wards and no rust! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted December 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 ok so finally got out to losen the rear sub frame bolt due to the flu and the damn thing is starting to strip! so am i totally screwed or is there a way to still get it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted December 19, 2007 Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 how about you read my other post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted December 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 ok got the rear sub frame bolt off and the top bolt and bottom bolt of the alternator off but have no idea how to get the rear bolt off to take the alternator out. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted December 20, 2007 Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 use a small 10mm socket and ratchet or a box end 10mm. thats not the correct way, but thats how i do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CutSupreme93 Posted December 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 do i just reach around and do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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