Idea on how to save 200 for rear curtain

[joey b]

if anyone has the rear curtain with the plastic glass, could you be so kind as to take measurements and some pictures along the window's edge.

 

I'm thinking that if the dimensions are the same, I could get the cheapie off of ebay and using some sort of adhesive, glue my existing window in place after removing the plastic window.

[kbviper]

Having messed around with a couple of separating back windows with about 12 different glues and adhesives, without achieving a great deal of success, I would strongly suggest paying the 200 for the piece with the rear window rather than trying to glue the glass to a new rear window piece.

 

I had limited success with small separations, and strongly doubt that there is any glue out there that would hold a whole back window in place - it is my understanding that the factory and aftermarket pieces are "heat sealed".

 

For what it is worth, "Marine Goop" worked the best for sealing the vinyl to the glass - it did last a year before having to be redone. If anyone has found anything better for doing this repair, I'd love to know.

 

[Psych0matt]

how long did that marine goop hold for? I used strong epoxy twice, and it seemed to hold for about a year, but it's hard to get it straight, so i think the problem was that one side had more tension, and slowly pulled from one side to the other

[kuwaitliberation]

Couple of things to remember when working with adhesives under stress. First, you need to use as thin a layer of the stuff as possible. The more "goop" you put in there, the more likely it is to separate. Make sure it gets full coverage, but don't allow it to be more than 1/8" thick. Second, make sure you prep the surfaces very carefully. Use a fine sandpaper to scuff up the window and the plastic you will be sticking it to. Third, If you can remove the top before putting the window in, you will be able to clamp it. That will cause the strongest bond. Just some thoughts from working with material for so long.

[Dirty Rockstar]

Couple of things to remember when working with adhesives under stress. First, you need to use as thin a layer of the stuff as possible. The more "goop" you put in there, the more likely it is to separate. Make sure it gets full coverage, but don't allow it to be more than 1/8" thick. Second, make sure you prep the surfaces very carefully. Use a fine sandpaper to scuff up the window and the plastic you will be sticking it to. Third, If you can remove the top before putting the window in, you will be able to clamp it. That will cause the strongest bond. Just some thoughts from working with material for so long.

 

Thanks for that. (I was going to suggest clamping if no one did.) I am buying a 94 with a slightly leaky top at the window, so I''ll be attempting this. If I can get it to stay via scuffing and clamping, I will not replace the top right away. If I can't get it to stay moe than a year, it'll be a NEW canvas white top.

[kbviper]

how long did that marine goop hold for? I used strong epoxy twice, and it seemed to hold for about a year, but it's hard to get it straight, so i think the problem was that one side had more tension, and slowly pulled from one side to the other

 

The Marine Goop has held for just over a year without separating yet. I concur with kl's suggestions - I roughened both the glass and the vinyl surfaces before applying the Marine Goop, and did not use an excessive amount.

 

Clamping would be a benefit it it could easily be done, but imho, if you are going to remove the back window piece, you may as well replace it while it is out. I placed a large retangular cardboard box in the "well" under the back window in such a way that it pushed the window out, and kept a fair bit of tension on the glued joint while it hardened - it worked.

 

To hold the pieces together while the

[kuwaitliberation]

Also, one thing that I always forget to mention. I have been thinking about how these things could get the way they are. I don't jump on it or anything. I doubt you guys put any excessive forces on them that would cause this. Unless you are driving with the top up and the windows down.

 

I would think that 70 MPH wind hammering at the back window from inside the car would probably cause some strain. Another thing is that, from simple physics, you take and run the top of a car through the wind like that, it will create an upforce. Like on a plane wing. It causes lift on the back side/down slope of the wing. Therefore, it will be trying to "lift" on the window because of the negative pressure on the back window. Then add the force of wind slamming it coming through the windows and you have about 100 MPH wind shoving that window (non-flexable) right out of the top (very flexable).

 

So, if you have the top up, the cliamte control is on and the windows are up. Maybe that makes a giant difference.

 

Just trying to figure this crap out. You know, this is the first vert I have ever owned that I didn't use a chainsaw to make.

[Psych0matt]

yeah, i definitely made it tight when i glued it, since you can't obviously get a clamp in there. one of these day's I'll redo it again, for now

[joey b]

anybody with a plastic window measurement?

[Crazy K]

 

Just trying to figure this crap out. You know, this is the first vert I have ever owned that I didn't use a chainsaw to make.

 

been there, done that!!!!! LOL!!!