89GP_SE Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 ok I know this is such a noob question, so i figuered it would be easy to search for it, and i didnt find one thing that could help me so yeah, here it goes. brakes are squeeling. Brake pads need replacing. Need instructions on how to replace brake pads, and how to properly do it, and how to properly bleed brakes as well. I have never done brakes so the more detail the better. I dont want to pay someone 80 an hour for labour when everyone says that brakes are not hard at all. I can get a set of brand new brake pads for 30 bucks. I am thinking of doing all of them. But I really need info on just the fronts for now. I am starting to get a headache. Thanks again. Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Loosen the lugs on whatever wheel your working on. Jack up the car in a safe place. Finish taking the lugs off, then remove the wheel. Remove the bolts holding the caliper on. Remove the old pads. Push (with a c clamp, or other appropreiate tool) the caliper piston all the way back in it's bore. Install new pads. Remove bolts holding the caliper bracket in place. Remove the old Rotor and install the new one. Re-install the caliper bracket Re-install the caliper Your done. Bleeding.... Go up the the store and in the "HELP" section find the single person bleeders that have a check valve built into them. You should be able to get all 4 for about $18-$20 Replace your old bleeder screws with the new ones, and follow the directions on the back of the box.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89GP_SE Posted May 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted May 24, 2006 Report Share Posted May 24, 2006 Always use a jack stand in addition to the jack for safety. Some calipers are held by bolt and some uses star bolt which requires star type socket to remove those bolts and some of them are pretty hard to remove and you need a long breaker bar. Get yourself a small tool to help re-tract the front caliper piston. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DISC-BRAKE-CALIPER-PISTON-SPREADER-new_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33567QQitemZ8067734239QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Although you can use a c-clamp but I use that to speed up things. When you get to the rear caliper, I use a cube type rear-caliper adjuster with a c-clamp and screw driver. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle-Rear-Disc-Brake-Piston-Tool-28600_W0QQitemZ4602101363QQcategoryZ43998QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemhttp://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,44851.0.html Get at least 2 large bottle of brake fluid when you are ready to bleed the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 ANTI SIEZE!!!!!!!! Often overlooked and often leads to more trouble down the road. Believe me. I just dropped 40 bucks because the previous owner failed to do this easy and cheap task. This lead to improper brake wear and without any signal dug into the rotors. A bottle of antisieze will cost you like 6 bucks and is MORE than worth the money. Put it on every contacting part that you want to move at some point in time. Lugnuts, mounting bolts, SLIDERS, lift the rubber and carefully apply between the piston and the rubber seal. This will make sure that the caliper doesn't go to shit and sieze up and trash the other pads and rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee Posted May 25, 2006 Report Share Posted May 25, 2006 Simple but valuable step overlooked in list.... before compressing the caliper back in......remove lid from the brake fluid resivior and suck out some fluid. When you compress the caliper back into its housing the fluid is going to fill back into the resivior. Don't want to oveflow it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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