88Intl Posted September 27, 2002 Report Share Posted September 27, 2002 Have the driver's seat of my '88 Cutlass Supreme on the workbench. How is it to be further disassembled to access the air bladders for lumbar & side support? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Intl Posted September 27, 2002 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2002 How the &%$# could GM design a seat with inflatable bladders that's cant be accessed without tearing off all the upholstery? The plastic fabric-covered panel on the back of the seatback is held on by a few things, including the seatback release knob (held in by a pin or rivet) and the headrest (headrest tubes contain air hose for headrest angle bladder so cant pull it off). Do they really expect you to replace the entire seat in event of a air leak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 27, 2002 Report Share Posted September 27, 2002 I would say spray some tire sealant through the tubes! Did you actually rip apart the upholstery??! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Intl Posted September 27, 2002 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2002 I would say spray some tire sealant through the tubes! Did you actually rip apart the upholstery??! Good idea, however I have had problems with "self-sealing" bicycle tire tubes. The sealant gets into the valve and gums it up. Tire tubes are disposable, but the electrically-controlled valve that directs air to the selected bladder is not. Was able to remove the headrest cover easily, and detach the fabric from the bottom edge of the seatback. One of the side support's plastic frames was already broken when I got the car, able to see most of the lumbar bladder. Unfortunately the other side support just quit inflating, thats what motivated me to pull the seat and try to fix it. Am thinking about taking a Dremel tool, cutting pieces out of the plastic seatback cover so it may be removed without yanking out the headrest. Seats are not in the best condition anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 28, 2002 Report Share Posted September 28, 2002 Nah I don't mean using that "slime" crap I mean like the foaming sealant used for car tires...it dries up inside so you dont have to worry about it gumming up the valve. Not that I recommend this, but if the only other option is damaging the seat, and it's not in the best of shape, why not "experiment"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 1, 2002 Report Share Posted October 1, 2002 hey 88intl...i've got a 92 intl and if your seats have a plastic/hard backing to them, then there is a pain in the ass way to get to those lovely bladders...if you dont have a hard backing, then i cant help...but with my seats, it is possible to pull the backing away from where it joins the bottom of the seat, i will take some pics and post them if you need it....then you can pull the back away from the front (there are 2 of those plastic pin/clip things) and then you can disconnect the headrest tube and remove the back...hope this helps, my seats were falling apart when i got the car, thats how i know to take them apart, but if all the pieces/connectors are holding your seat together, then i cant really help....i also tried to use an innertube repair/patch on my headrest bladders, but it didnt work even though i thought i found all the holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted October 1, 2002 Report Share Posted October 1, 2002 the seats off the '88 cutlass don't have the hard shell back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Intl Posted October 9, 2002 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2002 hey 88intl...i've got a 92 intl and if your seats have a plastic/hard backing to them, then there is a pain in the ass way to get to those lovely bladders...if you dont have a hard backing, then i cant help...but with my seats, it is possible to pull the backing away from where it joins the bottom of the seat, i will take some pics and post them if you need it....then you can pull the back away from the front (there are 2 of those plastic pin/clip things) and then you can disconnect the headrest tube and remove the back...hope this helps, my seats were falling apart when i got the car, thats how i know to take them apart, but if all the pieces/connectors are holding your seat together, then i cant really help....i also tried to use an innertube repair/patch on my headrest bladders, but it didnt work even though i thought i found all the holes My seats do have hard plastic backings to them. Would appreciate the pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 9, 2002 Report Share Posted October 9, 2002 alright...i'll see what i can do today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Intl Posted November 25, 2002 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2002 Finally found the leaks in the driver's lumbar and passenger headrest bladders! Both bladders are made of two rectangular sheets of rubber, somehow bonded together at the edges to hold air. The bonding failed at one edge of each and you can stick a finger inside between the sheets. All I need to do is re-bond the edge. Am thinking rubber cement from a tire patch kit, reinforced by some kind of clamps crimped on to the edge. There are actually staples thru the rubber at the edge, but why put extra holes in? A piece of metal that holds its shape when crimped might do the trick. Anyone know of something manufactured for this and sold at the auto parts or hardware store? Needs to crimp to about 1/4-1/8" thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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