NCMCSS Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 Hi, I own a '94 Cutlass Convertible and have owned it for a few years now. I have had trouble with the rear window leaking and then puddling it the area that the top folds into. It has now resulted in a "molding smell"?? (not sure that it is mold) but I need to fix this trouble. Will replacing the top be needed? Does anyone have info on the trouble? Let me know Glen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 only thing I've found is to make sure that the drain is free of clogs and try and keep the opposite side propped up if it needs to be. My back window came loose from the bottom portion of canvas at one point, and i just had to make sure it drained properly. As far as I know, that's about all you can do. See if you can trace the leak to specific points, but best thing is just to make sure it all flows down to the drain, and then out of the trunk. There should be a tube you can find in the trunk under that drain, and it should run to the wheel well out of a little hole. Lemme know if you have any more questions related to this, since I've had my fair share of problems (unfotunately). Good luck 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 use tilex to clean the smell out? My CS vert has the smell, but then again........ my rear glass had come completely loose and is sitting on my rear seat. I plan on buying a roof soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 2, 2006 Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 the rear glass came completely out? on all sides? the whole bottom of mine pulled apart, but ive never heard of the whole glass coming out (other than on my brothers sebring because he shut the top on a shovel ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 3, 2006 Report Share Posted January 3, 2006 yeah........ the top is 30% missing! not to mentioned a holy wonder of the world. previous owner(s) opened and closed the top to get into the car rain sun sleet or snow since both doorhandles broke. YEAH the p/w worked... could have left it cracked enough to reach in... but some people are stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted January 3, 2006 Report Share Posted January 3, 2006 previous owner(s) opened and closed the top to get into the car rain sun sleet or snow since both doorhandles broke. :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted January 3, 2006 Report Share Posted January 3, 2006 previous owner(s) opened and closed the top to get into the car rain sun sleet or snow since both doorhandles broke. :shock: WTF!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 4, 2006 Report Share Posted January 4, 2006 And when I say that..... I mean they left the top down while out of the car 24/7... rug was moldy, front seats were rotted away, the rear seat was mildewed... YUCK! I paid $40 for the car. Owner wanted it gone... I think he was getting evicted... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlassdude96 Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 good god :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 I wish I had pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 You don't have to replace the top, but you do have to glue the rear window back in. I used 3M Urethane Windshield adhesive and it worked perfectly. That should stop the leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted January 5, 2006 Report Share Posted January 5, 2006 You don't have to replace the top, but you do have to glue the rear window back in.I used 3M Urethane Windshield adhesive and it worked perfectly. That should stop the leaking. you might want to check the tempature that is required inroder to use the adhesive too, if it is too cold it obviously won't work and you would have to use a heated garage to do it correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 6, 2006 Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 spend a ton of time last summer for it to just come apart again, but redid it this summer and last I knew was still holding up awesome. Key: Take your time and let it set nice and long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afubar Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Hey There GnatGoSplat - Please explain a bit more on how you fixed your rear window. For the past two years I have fought with mine, (I too had the problem of the rear hold filling up before the bottom of the window came loose) I have used a couple of ways to glue it, they last between 1 year too 6 months. After reading this post, I ordered the 3 M stuff and will try it again this spring when the weather/temps cooperate. I plan to take my trusty Dremel and rough up the bottom of the glass and also to remove any of the previous attemps before using the 3M. Anything else I need to know? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 I used the sandpaper attachment on my Dremel and roughed up the existing urethane on the top material (it was all shiny and smooth). I didn't rough up the glass, but I did clean it real good with lacquer thinner. I then ran a bead of the windshield adhesive along the fabric and stuck it to the glass and worked all the air out of it. It squished out the end a bit, but I just waited till it dried, cut it along the edge with a razor, and pulled off the excess. It has held up very well, but that said, we have only attempted to put the top down once since then. There is a broken or messed up linkage on mine, so it won't go all the way down. It's held up great for nearly a year, but I don't know how well it would hold up if you use the top a lot. Urethane is what they used originally, so hopefully it's the strongest stuff you can get. They do sell a urethane cleaner/primer you paint on the glass, but I didn't use that. It may have been a good idea, but the sales guy told me just to clean it really well and it would hold. It has eliminated the leaking, and GREATLY reduced noise. I had to glue both the inside and outside fabric to the backglass on the bottom, and one entire side as well. I think the backglass on mine was just a couple months away from coming out entirely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afubar Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 I don't put the top down much, mostly because the left rear window doesn't work and because of that it takes two people to get the top to latch. Not sure what the problem with it is, it would work then not, then work, then not, right now it's at that not stage though I do hear a clicking noise(under the dash near the steering wheel) when I toggle the switch. My top is still in excellent condition, just that blasted rear window. I've thought about buying the rear window and hanger, but from what I've read here, it's two big a job to DIY. I appreciate the info, Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 How would you suggest to press the window to the fabric until it cures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuwaitliberation Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Hmmm... The vert is one of two vehicles for myself, so I am going to take it out of commission while I fix the back window. What I am going to do is take the entire top off, then use sealant on the window itself (by the by, make sure you scuff the part of the window up where it is to make contact with some sandpaper. That will allow better adhesion of whatever sealant you plan on using). I will have full access to be able to use 2x4's on top and bottom with some weights to press it firmly together. You have to make sure you do even distribution of the weight down the 2x4 so you don't get high and low points. That isn't coming from expierience doing verts, but it does come from expierience doing interiors. While those you don't have to worry about leaks, you do have to worry about added stress from that 400 pound guy who is about to pull on the door to close it and sit in the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny_8 Posted April 11, 2007 Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 How do you know if the rear window is bad ? I mean my car does not leak, but when looking at the rear window from the outside, the seams where the thread is......all the thread is worn out..and I just see holes in some places...... Can i fix this without buying a whole back window ($200+) ? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuwaitliberation Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 How do you know if the rear window is bad ? I mean my car does not leak, but when looking at the rear window from the outside, the seams where the thread is......all the thread is worn out..and I just see holes in some places...... Can i fix this without buying a whole back window ($200+) ? Thanks, The rear window is glass. The vinyl top is separate, and the window is attached to it using an epoxy. If your glass is still attached all the way around and there is no gaps between the fabric and glass, then there is nothing to worry about there. I am not sure what you mean by "holes." Are they tears in the fabric top or are you actually talking about a gap between the top and the window. Yes, the back window attaches to the top the entire way around the edge of the window, no gaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny_8 Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 Ok cool, so this is what I mean, its like stiching but the thread is gone...so I just have the holes....if thats just for show, I am not about to spend 200 bucks on a rear window... I took some pics but dont know how to post..... will try to PM to u Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 Ok cool, so this is what I mean, its like stiching but the thread is gone...so I just have the holes....if thats just for show, I am not about to spend 200 bucks on a rear window... I took some pics but dont know how to post..... will try to PM to u you can use a hosting site such as photobucket.com If one of my cars had bad stictching, even if just cosmetic, I would find an appropraite thread to re-stitch the seems myself, so it would look right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny_8 Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 Thanks, Here is the seam/hole part I was talking about. Its the bottom part of the rear window : And here are the side seams...bit hard to see, but they look like they are glued on fine edited to add image coding! - ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 if you highlight your link and click the button that looks like a picture in the icons above... you'll get visible images (photo bucket also give you an html encoded link for posting images) I am not certain if that stitching actually does anything or is just for looks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuwaitliberation Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 Your stuff is good. Mine looks the same. I have no leaks (with the duct tape in place, that is). The stiching is actually to hold together the rain cover and the top itself. The rain cover is the underside that curls under and attaches to the inside portion of the window. It doesn't attach at the outside. That isn't a hole. When you put your top up, you should check and see that the rain flaps are tucked over the window or else you will get major leakage into the car. Don't worry too much because that thing below the window is designed to catch water and drain it out through that tube. Just good to check it once in awhile because where the seams are is where the rips almost always start. If you do get a hole in your top, you can go to Wal-Mart in their auto section. They have a vinyl/leather repair kit. If the tear isn't too big, you can just patch it up with that. Make sure you use a patch on the underside and the repair kit on the top side. The patch will prevent it from separating further. If you can keep the hole/tear together and not put any further strain on it, it will no longer tear. I had to fix seats like that all the time. I think your top is just fine for now. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Oh, and I have found that it is the bottom of the window that generally gives out first as far as the window separating from the top. The glass itself is a separate piece. Anything cloth/vinyl/plastic whatever, is the top. Well, that was a learning expierience for me, too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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