Prospeeder Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 ok, is the RU-1810 a good choice, iv herd good things about it, im gonna be getting one, and there kinda pricey, so i dont want a retarded one, and the breather Filter PN? do the cone filters come with the breather filter/tube? or can i get just a tube? if so, what demensions do i need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 are you trying to get a CAI on there eventually? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 Looks as though you can still stick a hole in the end and get the proper crankcase evacuation tube run into it, I am a strong supporter of the points surrounding this crankcase evacuation approach!! To reiterate, all engines with gapped rings have combustion chamber blow-by, and that blow-by to the crankcase must be evacuated! Blow-by is made up of both fuel/fuel diluted oil before the combustion process (compression stroke) and exhaust (with some fuel as boosted A/F is rich) after the combustion process (power stroke), this is a contaminate to the oiling system. But we also must evacuate the crankcase to get other contaminants out such as oil fumes coming out of the oil from hot spots, moisture (lots of it after starting a cold engine) and etc. Next is the pressure that blow-by can cause in the crankcase, that can disturb the sealing of the piston rings which can resulting in increased oil consumption and accelerated wear at the rings, and less power from improper sealing of those rings. Now for those few running gap-less rings, there is still the contaminants of moisture and others that need to be evacuated, moisture not only causes rusting inside an engine but also when mixed with any blow-by that does occur (there still is a little) causes acid to be formed with the constituents in the exhaust (blow-by again), which should go without saying is more of a concern in a normal “gapped†piston ring setup. In a gapped and gap-less setup there is still fuel diluting of oil at the cylinder walls, rings and piston sides during cold start-up and warm-up, this gasoline diluted oil will still find its way into the crankcase as the piston travels up and down, and will mostly be removed if there is a crankcase evacuation system in place. seach key Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no1kicker Posted October 1, 2005 Report Share Posted October 1, 2005 I would use the RU-1390, it has a 20 deg bend that is perfect for the turbos with the coolant bottle where it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 Looks as though you can still stick a hole in the end and get the proper crankcase evacuation tube run into it, I am a strong supporter of the points surrounding this crankcase evacuation approach!! To reiterate, all engines with gapped rings have combustion chamber blow-by, and that blow-by to the crankcase must be evacuated! Blow-by is made up of both fuel/fuel diluted oil before the combustion process (compression stroke) and exhaust (with some fuel as boosted A/F is rich) after the combustion process (power stroke), this is a contaminate to the oiling system. But we also must evacuate the crankcase to get other contaminants out such as oil fumes coming out of the oil from hot spots, moisture (lots of it after starting a cold engine) and etc. Next is the pressure that blow-by can cause in the crankcase, that can disturb the sealing of the piston rings which can resulting in increased oil consumption and accelerated wear at the rings, and less power from improper sealing of those rings. Now for those few running gap-less rings, there is still the contaminants of moisture and others that need to be evacuated, moisture not only causes rusting inside an engine but also when mixed with any blow-by that does occur (there still is a little) causes acid to be formed with the constituents in the exhaust (blow-by again), which should go without saying is more of a concern in a normal “gapped†piston ring setup. In a gapped and gap-less setup there is still fuel diluting of oil at the cylinder walls, rings and piston sides during cold start-up and warm-up, this gasoline diluted oil will still find its way into the crankcase as the piston travels up and down, and will mostly be removed if there is a crankcase evacuation system in place. seach key uh, not to be rude or nothin, but i didnt ask what the breather was for, lol, i asked what was the Part number for one from K&N or the demensions for one, although thats some good info! and what ab out the tubes alot of people just run to the cone filter? how do i get on of those? just ask? will they have it for the 3.1, or are all gm ones the same? and is there just a spot on the cone filter i can stick it into? Did u use the RU-1390 no1kicker, if so, how well did it hold up? and does it stay on just fine, and what not? i might get that one if it fits better ya think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 Did u use the RU-1390 no1kicker, if so, how well did it hold up? and does it stay on just fine, and what not? i might get that one if it fits better ya think I have the RU-1390 on my TGP(put it on Jan 2004) and haven't had any issues with it at all. Check the filter install/sticky thread at the netavalanche board...idbeast or someone else said he had been running a '1390 for over five years with no issues from what I can remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 sweet, ill get that one then, sounds good! but some1 help me out on the crankcase breather turbe/filter situation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 If you're planning on routing a tube back to the K&N filter from the front valve cover, then you don't need a "breather." You need to pick up a fitting similar to a pcv valve that fits the grommet in the valve cover, then attach a length of hose to it and route that into the K&N(you'll have to make a hole there). EDIT: I can take a picture of the fitting your need/measure the size for you tomorrow since I have one laying around here..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 awsome, im a little scared to make a hole in my 40$ cone filter tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 awsome, im a little scared to make a hole in my 40$ cone filter tho Order here or somewhere similar. http://www.martelbrothers.com/ $30.77 You may be able to find one a few $'s cheaper than that...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 oh yay! there cheaper than i thought! are they 30 at like napa or somwhere, i just herd some1 say thay were 40, cool. So i have to make a hole myself, like how? drill it out till u get to the filter, and make it just big enough for the tube? or is there a way i can clamp in in/on? me or my dad have never used a K&N be4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 I used the RU-1760 and it fits fine. doesn't rub on the intercooler or anything. I also got a breather for mine the K&N number is 62-1010 for one, but having gone that route I would recommend using the Jeff M supported breather hose method. There are numerous reasons to use the breather hose over a breather filter. One reason for me is that the breather was A LOT more expensive than I thought it would be, like $25 or so! In retrospect I should have gone with a breather pipe. Also when you tighten the filter onto the turbo; tighten it as tight as you can get with a screwdriver. If you crank on it with a rachet the clamp will cut into the filter neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 so how do i get the breather pipe to stay in the cone filter, i need to know how far a drill, where, how to hold it there, do i need a rubber gromet thingy to stick the other end into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 yep you do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 so just take out the plastic basicly so theres a hole w/ accsess to the filter, put the gromet and the end im ready Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 3, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 can some1 get a closer picture of where exacty the hole for the tube goes? and is the piping for the breather tube basicly unversal or is it GM specific or 3.1 specific or what Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no1kicker Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 I used the -1390, worked well. Here's what I did about the breather: http://massclubgp.com/album_pic.php?pic_id=608 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 damn Shucks wants 57$ for the R-1390 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 damn Shucks wants 57$ for the R-1390 Told ya' to buy online. Or at least from the lower priced vendors you can find via the internet..... EDIT: I just went through my TGP file folder I keep.....I ordered my filter from here http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/store/start?r=store& (I think no1kicker recommended that place before.) They charge $30.77(free shipping). 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z284pwr Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 http://home.earthlink.net/~z284pwr/grand_prix/August%2022,%202005/tgp%20003_small.jpg There that is how I did mine, its functional and I still think it looks better than a breather, just used the hose, pushed the ends onto it and wa-la Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john99gtp Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 why not just get a breather for 17 bucks? K&N #62-1010 i paid like 17 bucks, and since you found a spot for a K&N 10 bucks cheaper, your only spending 7 bucks more and jesus greg, thats one dirty engine! edit: found my invoice: RU-1390 Universal Rubber Filter 1 $33.85 $33.85 62-1010 Vent Filters 1 $17.31 $17.31 Subtotal: 2 $51.16 and free shipping too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted October 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 SWEET! its only 40$ all together with shipping, shucks wanted almost 60$! i saved almost 20$! i could use that saved money i guess to get a breather, shit if i buy the breather too free shipping, 46$ all together for the RU-1390 and the breather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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