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brake materials


MoTox8410

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Theres no difference weather you have ABS or not, in terms of pads and rotors.

 

Go with a good grade rotor, not a cheap ass one. For pads, I would say go with semi-mettalic. Some people will say ceramic pads. Either will do.

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Which ever one that doesn't cling to the paint and start to corrode. Christ I have to clay bar my car because of those shitty pads....the dust cligs to the paint and makes it look like the actual car is rusting, however it isn't :?

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i just did my brakes and rotors yesterday.

the comment about cheep rotors.. not true. Rotors make a huge difference. Slap some Green stuff pads on cheep rotors and you will have Major problems. i had the cheep $20 special rotors on and took them off yesterday pics coming soon. they lasted 2 years and are cracked all to hell.

 

i spent $90 on rotors and pads this time from Autozone Duralast rotors + duralast Gold pads. They seemed to be pretty good stuff and since i cant get upgrade parts without waiting for shipping so i took this rout.

 

things you will need and should remember.

 

you need a t60 torque bit (looks like a star) plus your 15mm socket to pull the rotors off.

 

you need a C-clamp or other tool to decompress the pistons back to zero and dont forget to open your break fluid resivour befor you start your decompression.

 

bleeding your break lines is important you have 2 people. one to hold the pedal down and one to open the valve. DO NOT LIFT UP on pedal while the blead valve is open. you must close the bleed valve befor you can releve the break pedal.

 

everything else is pretty strait forward.. cheeter pipe may be required on a few of those bolts. and a torque wrench to put the right Ft/bs of torque back on the tires.. i think you will need 100fb/s on each lugnut.

 

well i hope this helps you some.. and the sockets and t-bits i mentioned may be the wrong size for your application. i used those on my 95 lumina.. and my rotors were 10.5 inches.

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Softer pads (i.e. carbon metallic) will have better braking performance and more "bite", but being a softer material, they also wear much faster and kick out a ton more dust. Semi-metallic and ceramic are harder, the latter being the hardest. Even among semi-metallic pads, different brands have different hardness. Semi-metallic would be a good compromise, although on an 88-93 with the smaller vacuum booster, I usually run carbon metallic because the brakes are so bad.

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and i would say stay away from ceramic pads i have had them on my fronts for like a year now, and they squeek everytime i hit the brakes, and they dont stop no where near as good as semi-metallic pads do. and ceramic pads are even worse in the rain. but all this is in my experiece with ceramic pads. i will be redoing my front brakes soo because of this.

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i just did my brakes and rotors yesterday.

the comment about cheep rotors.. not true. Rotors make a huge difference. Slap some Green stuff pads on cheep rotors and you will have Major problems. i had the cheep $20 special rotors on and took them off yesterday pics coming soon. they lasted 2 years and are cracked all to hell.

 

i spent $90 on rotors and pads this time from Autozone Duralast rotors + duralast Gold pads. They seemed to be pretty good stuff and since i cant get upgrade parts without waiting for shipping so i took this rout.

 

things you will need and should remember.

 

you need a t60 torque bit (looks like a star) plus your 15mm socket to pull the rotors off.

 

you need a C-clamp or other tool to decompress the pistons back to zero and dont forget to open your break fluid resivour befor you start your decompression.

 

bleeding your break lines is important you have 2 people. one to hold the pedal down and one to open the valve. DO NOT LIFT UP on pedal while the blead valve is open. you must close the bleed valve befor you can releve the break pedal.

 

everything else is pretty strait forward.. cheeter pipe may be required on a few of those bolts. and a torque wrench to put the right Ft/bs of torque back on the tires.. i think you will need 100fb/s on each lugnut.

 

well i hope this helps you some.. and the sockets and t-bits i mentioned may be the wrong size for your application. i used those on my 95 lumina.. and my rotors were 10.5 inches.

 

They do have those "speed bleaders" with the check-valves in them so you don't have to have 2 people... also, I usually just end up using my MightyVac when I don't have someone else around... it's QUICK too!

 

Mike

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