MoTox8410 Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 i have to do my brakes on my 93 Z34 so is there any suggestions as far as what i should go with?? also is there any difference in doing brakes on something with abs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 Theres no difference weather you have ABS or not, in terms of pads and rotors. Go with a good grade rotor, not a cheap ass one. For pads, I would say go with semi-mettalic. Some people will say ceramic pads. Either will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 Which ever one that doesn't cling to the paint and start to corrode. Christ I have to clay bar my car because of those shitty pads....the dust cligs to the paint and makes it look like the actual car is rusting, however it isn't :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 There is absolutely nothing wrong with white-box special rotors. The pad is where it counts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoTox8410 Posted September 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 so what pads should i go with??brands?? my current brakes suck but i dont know what they are also how long do brakes usually last on these cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 i just did my brakes and rotors yesterday. the comment about cheep rotors.. not true. Rotors make a huge difference. Slap some Green stuff pads on cheep rotors and you will have Major problems. i had the cheep $20 special rotors on and took them off yesterday pics coming soon. they lasted 2 years and are cracked all to hell. i spent $90 on rotors and pads this time from Autozone Duralast rotors + duralast Gold pads. They seemed to be pretty good stuff and since i cant get upgrade parts without waiting for shipping so i took this rout. things you will need and should remember. you need a t60 torque bit (looks like a star) plus your 15mm socket to pull the rotors off. you need a C-clamp or other tool to decompress the pistons back to zero and dont forget to open your break fluid resivour befor you start your decompression. bleeding your break lines is important you have 2 people. one to hold the pedal down and one to open the valve. DO NOT LIFT UP on pedal while the blead valve is open. you must close the bleed valve befor you can releve the break pedal. everything else is pretty strait forward.. cheeter pipe may be required on a few of those bolts. and a torque wrench to put the right Ft/bs of torque back on the tires.. i think you will need 100fb/s on each lugnut. well i hope this helps you some.. and the sockets and t-bits i mentioned may be the wrong size for your application. i used those on my 95 lumina.. and my rotors were 10.5 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoTox8410 Posted September 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 i thought the pistons on my car like spin in er you need a special tool other than a C clamp to decompress them?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwingvksm Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 for the rears - yes. You are going to need a rear calliper tool to spin/push at the same time. Can get it from murrays/autozone/etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 Ugh. Note to self - never buy Valucraft pads again. It's pointless to clean my new wheels, they just get all brake-dusty again within no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonyman87 Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 one more thing i forgot to mention. when you get your rotors. Wash them clean from any oil or contamients. oil on fresh rotors is a bad thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 Softer pads (i.e. carbon metallic) will have better braking performance and more "bite", but being a softer material, they also wear much faster and kick out a ton more dust. Semi-metallic and ceramic are harder, the latter being the hardest. Even among semi-metallic pads, different brands have different hardness. Semi-metallic would be a good compromise, although on an 88-93 with the smaller vacuum booster, I usually run carbon metallic because the brakes are so bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutty Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 and i would say stay away from ceramic pads i have had them on my fronts for like a year now, and they squeek everytime i hit the brakes, and they dont stop no where near as good as semi-metallic pads do. and ceramic pads are even worse in the rain. but all this is in my experiece with ceramic pads. i will be redoing my front brakes soo because of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 i just did my brakes and rotors yesterday. the comment about cheep rotors.. not true. Rotors make a huge difference. Slap some Green stuff pads on cheep rotors and you will have Major problems. i had the cheep $20 special rotors on and took them off yesterday pics coming soon. they lasted 2 years and are cracked all to hell. i spent $90 on rotors and pads this time from Autozone Duralast rotors + duralast Gold pads. They seemed to be pretty good stuff and since i cant get upgrade parts without waiting for shipping so i took this rout. things you will need and should remember. you need a t60 torque bit (looks like a star) plus your 15mm socket to pull the rotors off. you need a C-clamp or other tool to decompress the pistons back to zero and dont forget to open your break fluid resivour befor you start your decompression. bleeding your break lines is important you have 2 people. one to hold the pedal down and one to open the valve. DO NOT LIFT UP on pedal while the blead valve is open. you must close the bleed valve befor you can releve the break pedal. everything else is pretty strait forward.. cheeter pipe may be required on a few of those bolts. and a torque wrench to put the right Ft/bs of torque back on the tires.. i think you will need 100fb/s on each lugnut. well i hope this helps you some.. and the sockets and t-bits i mentioned may be the wrong size for your application. i used those on my 95 lumina.. and my rotors were 10.5 inches. They do have those "speed bleaders" with the check-valves in them so you don't have to have 2 people... also, I usually just end up using my MightyVac when I don't have someone else around... it's QUICK too! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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