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Need Help with changing rear caliper.... 95 gp


jpfish

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i have a 95 gp, and i managed to snap the hinged bolt thing on the rear caliper, so the caliper is half on the rotor and grinding against the wheel. My question is, is there a way i can remove the caliper and put a new one in without having to bleed the system?

 

If i do have to bleed the system, what is the easiest way to do it?

 

thanks

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There are no actual bolts on the caliper itself. The only "hinge" bolt would be the one on the mounting bracket. You can easily remove the bracket after you take the caliper off of it. 2 bolts and she's out. No need to mess with the caliper at all.

 

If you ever do end up replacing the caliper, then you will have to disconnect the brake hose and bleed the system. Fill up the master cylinder and have someone in the car to have them press the brake pedal. Get yourself a good 1 foot length of hose (that'll fit over the bleeder screw) and a container to catch the brake fluid. Place the hose over the bleeder screw and the other end in the container. Crack open the bleeder screw and have your assistant press the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there. Close the screw and have them release the pedal. Continue this until the fluid runs steady (no air bubbles) out of the hose. Be sure to stop and check the level in the master cylinder after every couple of "cycles." When you get all of the air out, tighten up the screw and you're good to go...

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Are you saying the lower caliper slider bolt broke?

 

This is a flange head bolt stamped with a “L” and takes a 12mm socket. This is the bolt you have to remove to be able to swing the caliper up to remove the pads.

The upper caliper slider bolt is hid inside the caliper and is stamped with a “9” and takes a 10mm socket.

There are two larger bolts that take an 18mm socket that hold the caliper bracket, what the rear pads ride in, to the rear hub.

 

One thing I learned the hard way is that the two caliper slider bolts come from the factory with thread sealer on the threads. This sealer keeps moisture from getting between the slider bolt and the slider sleeve and rusting every thing. So any time you remove one of these slider bolts put some thread sealer on the threads before reassembling.

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when u bleed the brakes, do you really have to do all 4 calipers then the ABS pump :?:

 

You know what, I think you have to. And this makes sense as to why my ABS acts up. I only bled the brake system, but not the ABS at all...

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I would imagine that if you just took the one caliper off and pinched the hose so no excess fluid would leak out, you wouldn't need to bleed the whole system. If you keep enough fluid in the line going back to that caliper, you won't get any bleed-back into the ABS pump or master cylinder. If the air pocket stays back there, you should be able to easily push it out when you connect the hose up to the new caliper.

 

When I had to replace a steel line on my old LeSabre (the one running across the axle from the driver's side over to the passenger side) I only bled that side (right rear) and never had to go back and bleed the ABS pump or the rest of the wheels at all...

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