DiscoStudd Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Here's my dilemma: The paint is peeling like a mofo and I've been contemplating ways to repaint it cheaply. Keep in mind I only need it to last me another 2 years or so until I repaint the whole car. All of my "schemes" involve removing the hood. My first thought: Carefully scrape off the peeling paint from the top and sides of the hood, exposing the factory primer (which still seems to be intact,) and leaving the bottom of the hood alone. Wetsand the primer and throw down a coat of DupliColor rattle-can primer, then 2 coats of DupliColor rattle-can "Brite White" (factory color) followed by 3 coats of DupliColor rattle-can clear. Second thought: Grab a can of paint stripper, strip the whole thing down (top and bottom,) grab up a can each of base and clear from an autobody shop, rent a compressor and a spraygun, and paint the sucker "professionally." I think option 1 would be more feasable for me right now, but I'm wondering how well a "rattle-can job" would turn out. I'd have to go through a bunch of hassle to even attempt option 2, but if the end result is noticably better then it's a hassle worth going through. Anybody have any experience with painting entire body panels with rattle-can touch up paint? I've dabbled, but it's been over 10 years (and I only used the paint on small areas.) Any input (positive or negative) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 In between rattle can applications you;ll need to sand the last coat, then apply another coat, dry, then sand and so on. It will be time consuming, but if you take you time it should turn out good. Above all, perping the surface is most important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bake82 Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 I rattle canned my sunfire's front end. the fenders and nose came out great, but the hood has been a BITCH! You'll definetly want to get rid of the paint and primer on the hood and get it down to the metal. After that I'd try the rattle can paint job. I mean worst case scenario you spend 20-50 bucks on paint and it doesn't turn out well. But then again it might turn out really well and you would save some coin over the other way. I would think anyways! good luck with what you do. From my experience painting the hood with a rattle can is a BITCH, but my car is black so that might have something to do with it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 yeah Id sand blast the hood (or something similar using similar type particles) so its right down to the metal, then that will give you a nice clean hood to start you rattle can painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 If you only need a few years out of it this is what I would do: Use a palm sander with some 600grit paper, grind it down to the primer/metal. Use some primer over that. The duplicolor is kinda overpriced for those tiny cans, especially if you are doing an entire hood... There is other paint that's cheaper and white is pretty easy to find. First light coat, let it get tacky, another light coat, and yet another... if need be wait a day and put on a final coat. THEN wait until the paint if finally cured and wetsand the orange peel off. I've done a bit of spray canning so that's what I would do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Regal Limited Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 1 word, Junkyard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 the hood on my old '90 Cutlass did the exact same thing. I did part of your 1st and part of your 2nd plan. I basically used a razor blade scraper to "peel" the rest of the top coat off. I scuff sanded the original primer, then used my air tank and HVLP gun to shoot on 2 coats of a good primer, then followed by 4 coats of "single stage" PPG paint in matching white from a body shop supply store. Single stage requires no clear coat, yet is as shiny as the factory paint. And it's very easy to get good results even as a beginner. The job I did lasted a good while and was in good shape even when I sent it to the JY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 the hood on my old '90 Cutlass did the exact same thing. I did part of your 1st and part of your 2nd plan. I basically used a razor blade scraper to "peel" the rest of the top coat off. I scuff sanded the original primer, then used my air tank and HVLP gun to shoot on 2 coats of a good primer, then followed by 4 coats of "single stage" PPG paint in matching white from a body shop supply store. Single stage requires no clear coat, yet is as shiny as the factory paint. And it's very easy to get good results even as a beginner. The job I did lasted a good while and was in good shape even when I sent it to the JY.I'm digging this idea! Couple of questions for ya: 1.) What grit sandpaper did you use to scuff the factory primer? 2.) How much was the PPG paint, and what was its "model name" so to speak? Thanks for all of the suggestions, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 the hood on my old '90 Cutlass did the exact same thing. I did part of your 1st and part of your 2nd plan. I basically used a razor blade scraper to "peel" the rest of the top coat off. I scuff sanded the original primer, then used my air tank and HVLP gun to shoot on 2 coats of a good primer, then followed by 4 coats of "single stage" PPG paint in matching white from a body shop supply store. Single stage requires no clear coat, yet is as shiny as the factory paint. And it's very easy to get good results even as a beginner. The job I did lasted a good while and was in good shape even when I sent it to the JY.I'm digging this idea! Couple of questions for ya: 1.) What grit sandpaper did you use to scuff the factory primer? 2.) How much was the PPG paint, and what was its "model name" so to speak? Thanks for all of the suggestions, guys! I scuff sanded with 280 grit. The exact name is PPG Omni (urethane- same as factory) in single stage. You'll need a good general urethane primer and hardener, then the topcoat is mixed 4:1:1 between the paint, reducer (thinner) and hardener. I had bought a whole gallon of topcoat, 1/2 gal of primer, with all the thinners, and hardeners, mixing cups, a quart of degreaser (final prep before spraying) came to $180. Believe me though I have 3/4 of a gallon left that I have NO idea what I'll do with. It's matched to WA-8554 GM white which you'll see on pre- '93 GM cars (*it did make a comeback in '02+ Monte Carlos, GP's, etc) I'm just hoping the paint is still somewhat ok and I'll spray a car before it goes bad. Recently I bought the paint to do my rear bumper, spoiler and reverse bar. 1 quart was still WAY more than enough (though I went with PPG base/clearcoat) so you'll be fine with just a quart of paint. I bet you could get all the materials for under $100. This is all decent paint too. Not the acrylic enamel garbage or lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 cant u get it professionaly painted for about 100-200$, if u sand it urself, and primed it, it wouldnt be as much there was a huge epidemic around ur years time, that that year of alot of GM vehcles, mostly buicks and chevy trucks that the paint peeled off the car after a couple years, like first the hood, then the roof, then the trunk, just peeled off like theres no tomarrow, that would suck, i think it was caused by a chemical they used in the metal or somthing of the such, that they cleaned them with, or somthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Thanks for that info, Brian! If I have enough left over, I might tackle the bumpers and/or the decklid . Proseeder: GM used an "environmentally friendly" primer in 95-96 that was supposedly water based (don't quote me on that though) which caused the topcoat to peel after several years. My car is most definitely afflicted with that "disease" and I plan on having 'er stripped and repainted in a couple of years ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 I would just go find a white hood in a junkyard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 I would just go find a white hood in a junkyard. that's what i'd do too. If you can find atleast a decent one I think it'd save you a lot of time and trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 It's a bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted July 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 ^^^^ I don't want to go to that extreme if I don't have to . I'd love to be able to just stumble upon a mint "Bright White" hood somewhere. Believe me, I've been on the lookout for any Regal in the local boneyards, and even search Car-Part.com regularly, but my search always comes up empty. The hoods that are avalible on Car-Part.com are either in rough shape, the wrong color, or way too old to even bother with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShockTherapy Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 hood pins and black krylon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Proseeder: GM used an "environmentally friendly" primer in 95-96 that was supposedly water based (don't quote me on that though) which caused the topcoat to peel after several years. My car is most definitely afflicted with that "disease" and I plan on having 'er stripped and repainted in a couple of years ... hey thanks for corecting me, i always did wonder what they did to fuck up there paint so bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 GM, Chrysler and even Ford went to a different type of primer in the late 80s due to regulations. That's when paint started peeling on cars. I think Chrysler had the worst run of that. Some factories did better than others when it came to prep and using enough topcoat, like you'll notice Pontiacs won't peel as often as Chevy's or Olds. What the primer really does is oxidize. You could blame that on the primer, or blame it on too thin of a topcoat. Disco, if you go the route I mentioned (scraping the topcoat off without chemical) you'll see the brown oxidation on the primer, but if you sand just a little, you'll see the correct gray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 All the paint on my familys' cars is pretty decent for the mileage. My Lumina has very few chips, but where there are chips it seems to been HUGE chips. I've also noticed small cracks starting in various locations so maybe that is to do with the fucked up primer My dad's Taurus is pretty good, no peeling. The hood is shot because of tons of little chips...but when you drive a car that many years on my city's freeway with all t he gravel and sandy shit there isn't much you can do about it. My dad's Suburban has good paint, being that it has lots of kilometers, and it is a 96 which seems to be around the time of f*ed up primer?? Anyway, the paint is nice, but it chipped to hell from it's whole life of gravel roads. The imports have pretty good paint so far in my family: My mom's Acura has good paint so far, but it doesn't have to much mileage. I have noticed it does chip quite easily My RX-7 has good paint for how old it is...very few chips. No peeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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