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Overheating


GP1138
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Well, I know the system's bled, the problem now is finding out why I'm overheating all the time. The gauge never goes below 210*, and at highway speeds rides up around 240* or so. It's not gotten any better, and I'm afraid to get on it because it goes really high when I do. Never into the red zone, but it's starting to get tiresome.

 

Any suggestions?

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I have heard that 1 out of 4 new thermostats don't work properly...just a thought.

I know the thermostat is a PITA on a 3100. The crossover gets in the way.

I think you can remove one bolt from the t-stat housing, and loosen the other bolt so that the t-stat housing will swing out a little bit, just enough to replace the stat.

Good luck

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Bummer dude. Yeah, you'd think if the t-stat was functioning right you'd at least be cooling down on the highway. Sounds like she is almost stuck closed. So you are positive there is no vapour lock or anything? I know when I replaced the oil cooler on my RX-7 the fucker have a huge vapour lock in the heater core...luckily I didn't get the motor past half for heat so no harm done..just a suggestion but I'm sure you've bled and made sure of no vapour locks.

I'd look at the t-stat just to make sure it isn't a cheaper fix before looking at something else more expensive.

I dunno if this matters or not..but are your cooling fans kicking in when you are running at 240? I think they are suppose to come on around 220 and 227...maybe you blew and fuse or accidently knocked some wiring harness off of the fans when doing the engine work??

Even then, your temp should come down some when on the highway!

 

- Jeff L.

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Your fans shouldn't even come on this time of year, period. I drive in a variety of driving everyday and my 3100 usually stays at 1/4 maybe half if I'm doing extreme city driving.

 

I'd say theres still air in your system, or the t-stat is crap. I'd dump all the fluid again, flush it with a hose (maybe an air pocket somewhere?) and change the t-stat.

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Your fans shouldn't even come on this time of year, period. I drive in a variety of driving everyday and my 3100 usually stays at 1/4 maybe half if I'm doing extreme city driving.

 

Hmmm...well I don't know about that. Maybe the 3100 fan settings aren't as aggressive as the TGP ones, but the fan in my Lumina comes on fairly often driving around town, sitting at drive thru's, etc... even in the middle of winter. It comes on quite a bit in my STE and my dads TGP as well but those are programmed for a 160 t-stat so that makes sense.

 

Shawn

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Shawn, I set the fan points on the Lumina myself when I reprogrammed the chip. I don't recall exactly what I set them at, but for some reason 210* is sticking in my head. I remember I wanted to change it to a higher temp because they came on so often, but never got around to it. :roll:

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The fans always come on in on my GP.

 

In drive thoughs, or if i sit in a parking lot for 10+ minutes no matter what the temp outside is

 

I'd put my money on the t-stat, even if that fitting is leaking the engine should still stay cool

 

Air is a possibilty but I'd think your temp gauge would be all over the place then

 

Lemme know if you need any help again, I'm on spring break now, so i've got plenty of time

 

EDIT: There might be a chance we foobared the water pump with that tire iron :lol:

 

just something to think about

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Did you change the thermostat??

 

Yeah, it's brand new out of the package.

 

Do it again. Even better get the heavy duty one.

 

Alright. I might go ahead and order a 180* one from... whoever you order 180* thermostats from.

 

I'm not liking the procedure though. When I look it up in GM's Service Information, the second step is to remove the exhaust crossover pipe.. :roll: :lol: I'll git'r done!

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Okay, here's one question nobody's asked yet: What's your coolant's mix at? Are you positive you have a 50/50 mix in there? If you flushed the system at all, when refilling you need to add exactly 1/2 of the system's capacity of straight antifreeze and fill it the rest of the way with water. That way you get the proper 50/50 mix...

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Did you change the thermostat??

 

Yeah, it's brand new out of the package.

 

Do it again. Even better get the heavy duty one.

 

Alright. I might go ahead and order a 180* one from... whoever you order 180* thermostats from.

 

I'm not liking the procedure though. When I look it up in GM's Service Information, the second step is to remove the exhaust crossover pipe.. :roll: :lol: I'll git'r done!

 

I would say get one of those new type thermostats that fail in the open positition instead of the closed positition like all the old type. They are a high flow design and well worth any extra money that you might have to pay. Might save your motor from a melt down one day.

 

lata

CHRIS

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If you want to see if the Stat is opeating correctly, pull it out and put it in a pan of water on the stove and heat it up. Water boils at 212 Degrees F, so it should open up just before the water boils. This way you can be sure if that is the problem.

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Do I need to drain the coolant on the 3x00 engine before I pull the T-stat housing off?

 

As long as the engine is cold, no. Keep a rag handy though cause there will always be some spillage.

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Well... there was a lot of spillage.. :lol: I had the bottom of a drain pan filled, but it all burnt off anyway.

 

STEPS TO CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT ON A 3x00 ENGINE:

 

1. Grab tools and new thermostat and remove air cleaner; curse GM's design of wedging the air cleaner in between everything else they manage to shoehorn in there

2. Get all excited because you have a set of ratcheting wrenches

3. Stick hand in mess of cables, wires and hoses and burn self on exhaust manifold

4. Wait for car to cool down

5. Stick hand in mess of cables, wires and hoses and realize that the thermostat bolts are too close to the housing for you to use the ratcheting wrenches you got all excited about

6. Grab a 13mm socket and extension

7. Loosen the top bolt, and realize that the bottom one is directly behind the exhaust manifold; curse loudly

8. Grab a 13mm combination wrench

9. Stick your hand through the mess of cables, wires and hoses and realize there's no room to turn the wrench due to all the cables, wires and hoses; curse again, louder

10. Stick wrench through that mess of cables, wires and hoses and stick your hand under the exhaust manifold and grab the wrench

11. Realize you have to invert the 13mm wrench each turn because there's not enough room to turn it enough that you don't have to; spend 10 minutes loosening the bottom thermostat housing bolt as a result; curse loudly again

12. Begin removing thermostat housing as coolant gushes from behind it; curse loudly

13. Rush to hit the trunk release to grab drain pan

14. Grab drain pan, rush back to front of car and catch the small drips that remain

15. Begin trying to extracate thermostat and housing; realize that there is not enough room for the housing to be extricated due to the engine lift eye; curse again loudly

16. Grab 13mm socket, extension and 3/8" ratchet and remove the throttle body's top bolt

17. Realize that the bottom bolt has more threads sticking out of the head and grab a 13mm wrench

18. Spend 10 minutes removing THAT bolt in the same fashion the bottom thermostat housing bolt was removed

19. Remove throttle body cable mount, and remove throttle body

20. Curse as the thermostat housing and thermostat are easily extracated now that the throttle body is removed

21. Grab shitty Meijer's thermostat, curse at it loudly

22. Put Valucraft 180* thermostat in it's place, and reassemble

23. Curse as you try to shoehorn the air cleaner back into place

24. Start the car and bleed the system

 

Now, after all that, my car FINALLY runs like it used to, as cool as it used to! :D :D :D :D :D That's the last time I buy a thermostat from Meijer. :x :x :x :x

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christ man! I did this today in effort to stop a leak (I switched T-stat housings) and I didn't have any probs. What you gotta do with that bottom housing bolt is use the box end of the wrench on it and make sure the other end is BELOW the EGR. Turn it twice then you can remove it by hand.

 

Also since when does autozone stock a 180 T stat for our cars? What part # is it?

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