Jump to content

to change or not to change (oil)


maybe2fast
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have been wondering if it's truly safe to keep synthetic oil in for 5000+ miles. IF IT IS, then I have a good reason to switch my car over to full synthetic. Since April of this year (when I bought the car) I went from 94,300 miles to 108,xxx miles! That's 14 thousand miles in a hair over 6 months. You can imagine I change my oil about once a month. So being I have 108k I might be taking a few risks changing to synthetic, BUT, the engine internals are clean (prior owner must have taken great care of it- when I removed the valve covers, the heads were still silver), and no oil leaks. Unless I'm convinced otherwise, I think my next oil change will be synthetic, OR my next oil change will be syn blend, then the oil change after that will be full synthetic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • pitzel

    16

  • Brian P

    7

  • SigEpCutlass

    6

  • sl3196

    5

I have been wondering if it's truly safe to keep synthetic oil in for 5000+ miles. IF IT IS, then I have a good reason to switch my car over to full synthetic. Since April of this year (when I bought the car) I went from 94,300 miles to 108,xxx miles! That's 14 thousand miles in a hair over 6 months. You can imagine I change my oil about once a month. So being I have 108k I might be taking a few risks changing to synthetic, BUT, the engine internals are clean (prior owner must have taken great care of it- when I removed the valve covers, the heads were still silver), and no oil leaks. Unless I'm convinced otherwise, I think my next oil change will be synthetic, OR my next oil change will be syn blend, then the oil change after that will be full synthetic.

 

Here's one, on a 3400 in a Pontiac Montana, comparing Mobil1 and Amsoil after running 20,000 km (12,500 miles):

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001987

 

Both off-the-shelf $20/jug Mobil1 5W30 and the expensive Amsoil worked just fine over that interval. Note the TBN on both oils, a measure of how 'worn-out' the oil is, still is at least 9 with both oils after 12,500 miles? A TBN approaching 2 or 3 is considered fairly close to the oil's service life, so both oils had quite a bit of life left in them. (albeit the Amsoil suffered some viscosity thickening, which, if left unchecked, can decrease fuel efficiency).

 

Will have more URL's when I have more time later today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Change the filter, top it off and wait another 3000. I've always changed the filters every 3000 and the oil every 6000, if I've had the car that long...lol I tend to sell them rather quickly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since April of this year (when I bought the car) I went from 94,300 miles to 108,xxx miles! That's 14 thousand miles in a hair over 6 months. You can imagine I change my oil about once a month.

Hey I bought mine in april too! Got it with 78,000 now has 92,000. Guess we drive alot. :lol:

 

This week 10w-30 mobil one full synthetic is going in. I'll probaly run it to at least 7,500. I have regular 10w-30 in now and it has close to 4,000 miles on it and it still looks very clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Since April of this year (when I bought the car) I went from 94,300 miles to 108,xxx miles! That's 14 thousand miles in a hair over 6 months. You can imagine I change my oil about once a month.

Hey I bought mine in april too! Got it with 78,000 now has 92,000. Guess we drive alot. :lol:

 

This week 10w-30 mobil one full synthetic is going in. I'll probaly run it to at least 7,500. I have regular 10w-30 in now and it has close to 4,000 miles on it and it still looks very clean.

 

Damn, ya don't say!

 

Tell ya what, we'll both change to synthetic at the same time :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm changing over to Mobil 1 when I do my next oil change, but I only put about 1400 miles on the Prix since I purchased her. I bought a 5 quart jug of it at Walmart for $20 or so. Now I need to get to Autozone or Advanced for a filter since they only had Fram in stock at Walmart...I won't make that mistake with this car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been wondering if it's truly safe to keep synthetic oil in for 5000+ miles. IF IT IS, then I have a good reason to switch my car over to full synthetic. Since April of this year (when I bought the car) I went from 94,300 miles to 108,xxx miles! That's 14 thousand miles in a hair over 6 months. You can imagine I change my oil about once a month. So being I have 108k I might be taking a few risks changing to synthetic, BUT, the engine internals are clean (prior owner must have taken great care of it- when I removed the valve covers, the heads were still silver), and no oil leaks. Unless I'm convinced otherwise, I think my next oil change will be synthetic, OR my next oil change will be syn blend, then the oil change after that will be full synthetic.

 

Here's one, on a 3400 in a Pontiac Montana, comparing Mobil1 and Amsoil after running 20,000 km (12,500 miles):

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001987

 

Both off-the-shelf $20/jug Mobil1 5W30 and the expensive Amsoil worked just fine over that interval. Note the TBN on both oils, a measure of how 'worn-out' the oil is, still is at least 9 with both oils after 12,500 miles? A TBN approaching 2 or 3 is considered fairly close to the oil's service life, so both oils had quite a bit of life left in them. (albeit the Amsoil suffered some viscosity thickening, which, if left unchecked, can decrease fuel efficiency).

 

Will have more URL's when I have more time later today.

 

I'm going to have to disagree with what was posted there to some extent. First of all, the longest I've had amsoil in my car at one time has been about 10,200 miles without changing the filter or the oil. This happened when I fucked up and read my maintenance log wrong. During that time period, I also drove to and from florida back to my house in md. Decreased fuel efficiency my ass. On that trip, I averaged 30mpg, with an all time highest of 36mpg!!! Regardless of where my car is in terms of oil life, I've found that the gas mileage stays relatively consistent in similar driving conditions. Most highway trips I average atleast 25-26mpg even if i'm driving 80...

 

here is a graph below you might find interesting...

 

 

0w30GIF_600px.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found that the gas mileage stays relatively consistent in similar driving conditions. Most highway trips I average atleast 25-26mpg even if i'm driving 80...

 

Thicker oil does cause fuel efficiency to decrease to some degree. At 10k miles, which is 16,000km, your Amsoil would still have been well within grade.

 

My comments with respect to thickening are based on the many UOA's posted on that website where people ran 5W30/0W30 Amsoil for in excess of 20k miles, and while the oil continued to provide low wear properties, it had thickened well into and even past the SAE 40 viscosity (at 100degC), and delivered the characteristics of a SAE 50 viscosity oil. Left unchecked, this will eat into your fuel economy, but on a 10k mile drain, its highly unlikely you experienced any 'thickening' of the oil.

 

Mobil1 seems to resist the thickening better, albeit at the expense of higher wear. But the results of that particular UOA would be that its fairly clear that even cheap Wal-Mart Mobil1 can withstand a 12,500 mile interval without any excess wear or oil thickening.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found that the gas mileage stays relatively consistent in similar driving conditions. Most highway trips I average atleast 25-26mpg even if i'm driving 80...

 

Thicker oil does cause fuel efficiency to decrease to some degree. At 10k miles, which is 16,000km, your Amsoil would still have been well within grade.

 

My comments with respect to thickening are based on the many UOA's posted on that website where people ran 5W30/0W30 Amsoil for in excess of 20k miles, and while the oil continued to provide low wear properties, it had thickened well into and even past the SAE 40 viscosity (at 100degC), and delivered the characteristics of a SAE 50 viscosity oil. Left unchecked, this will eat into your fuel economy, but on a 10k mile drain, its highly unlikely you experienced any 'thickening' of the oil.

 

Mobil1 seems to resist the thickening better, albeit at the expense of higher wear. But the results of that particular UOA would be that its fairly clear that even cheap Wal-Mart Mobil1 can withstand a 12,500 mile interval without any excess wear or oil thickening.

 

Abeit higher wear???? I'm shocked that doesn't concern you. If there's one thing I'd be concerned about it'd be engine wear!!! Over the long run the mobil may hold up better chemically, but during normal & recommended operating conditions the amsoil synthetic is better hands down. Overall with amsoil, I can guaruntee you that my engine will hold up better than someone running mobil 1 going outside the recommended operating conditions, or for that matter within them. Mobil 1 is cheaper because it's not as good of an oil. Geez...I guess engine wear isn't important...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found that the gas mileage stays relatively consistent in similar driving conditions. Most highway trips I average atleast 25-26mpg even if i'm driving 80...

 

Thicker oil does cause fuel efficiency to decrease to some degree. At 10k miles, which is 16,000km, your Amsoil would still have been well within grade.

 

My comments with respect to thickening are based on the many UOA's posted on that website where people ran 5W30/0W30 Amsoil for in excess of 20k miles, and while the oil continued to provide low wear properties, it had thickened well into and even past the SAE 40 viscosity (at 100degC), and delivered the characteristics of a SAE 50 viscosity oil. Left unchecked, this will eat into your fuel economy, but on a 10k mile drain, its highly unlikely you experienced any 'thickening' of the oil.

 

Mobil1 seems to resist the thickening better, albeit at the expense of higher wear. But the results of that particular UOA would be that its fairly clear that even cheap Wal-Mart Mobil1 can withstand a 12,500 mile interval without any excess wear or oil thickening.

 

Abeit higher wear???? I'm shocked that doesn't concern you. If there's one thing I'd be concerned about it'd be engine wear!!! Over the long run the mobil may hold up better chemically, but during normal & recommended operating conditions the amsoil synthetic is better hands down. Overall with amsoil, I can guaruntee you that my engine will hold up better than someone running mobil 1 going outside the recommended operating conditions, or for that matter within them. Mobil 1 is cheaper because it's not as good of an oil. Geez...I guess engine wear isn't important...

 

god damn. it's not like you're going to notice a difference between the oils.

 

i bet my 3,000 mile $10 oil changes engine is in just as good shape as your "Fully Synthetic" high-performance beast

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Abeit higher wear???? I'm shocked that doesn't concern you. If there's one thing I'd be concerned about it'd be engine wear!!! Over the long run the mobil may hold up better chemically, but during normal & recommended operating conditions the amsoil synthetic is better hands down. Overall with amsoil, I can guaruntee you that my engine will hold up better than someone running mobil 1 going outside the recommended operating conditions, or for that matter within them. Mobil 1 is cheaper because it's not as good of an oil. Geez...I guess engine wear isn't important...

 

Not to get into a Mobil1 vs. Amsoil war here -- both are great oils, but 21ppm of iron for M1 versus 16ppm for the Amsoil is almost statistically insignificant. The Mobil1 in that engine exhibited lower copper wear (14ppm for M1 vs. 18ppm for Amsoil), so its really a toss-up between camshaft wear (Mobil1 being superior), and cylinder liner wear (Amsoil being superior).

 

Tin and Lead were essentially identical, at 1 and 2 ppm respectively between the Amsoil and the Mobil1 -- so roughly equal main bearing wear. The other components in that used oil analysis in the URL originate from the oil's additives (ie: the calcium, boron, molybdenum, phosphorous, zinc and magnesium), while the manganese is the result of the fuel additive MMT by Ethyl Corp. that is fairly universally used as an octane enhancer in Canadian petrol.

 

I apologize for, and withdraw my 'higher wear' comment. My comment was not supported the evidence before me, however, I will continue to insist that the higher 100degC kinematic viscosity of the Amsoil will result in reduced fuel economy as compared to the Mobil1 which retained its lower, closer-to-spec kinematic viscosity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Abeit higher wear???? I'm shocked that doesn't concern you. If there's one thing I'd be concerned about it'd be engine wear!!! Over the long run the mobil may hold up better chemically, but during normal & recommended operating conditions the amsoil synthetic is better hands down. Overall with amsoil, I can guaruntee you that my engine will hold up better than someone running mobil 1 going outside the recommended operating conditions, or for that matter within them. Mobil 1 is cheaper because it's not as good of an oil. Geez...I guess engine wear isn't important...

 

Not to get into a Mobil1 vs. Amsoil war here -- both are great oils, but 21ppm of iron for M1 versus 16ppm for the Amsoil is almost statistically insignificant. The Mobil1 in that engine exhibited lower copper wear (14ppm for M1 vs. 18ppm for Amsoil), so its really a toss-up between camshaft wear (Mobil1 being superior), and cylinder liner wear (Amsoil being superior).

 

Tin and Lead were essentially identical, at 1 and 2 ppm respectively between the Amsoil and the Mobil1. The other components in that used oil analysis in the URL originate from the oil's additives (ie: the calcium, boron, molybdenum, phosphorous, zinc and magnesium), while the manganese is the result of the fuel additive MMT by Ethyl Corp. that is fairly universally used as an octane enhancer in Canadian petrol.

 

I apologize for, and withdraw my 'higher wear' comment. My comment was not supported the evidence before me, however, I will continue to insist that the higher 100degC kinematic viscosity of the Amsoil will result in reduced fuel economy as compared to the Mobil1 which retained its lower, closer-to-spec kinematic viscosity.

 

I respect your argument...

However, It will hold true to that ONLY IF you go significantly beyond the recommended mileage of about 15,000miles.

 

However, I am more than convinced that even when I have gone almost 3,000 miles over the reccomended change point by accident, I still had great gas mileage and I definately didn't loose any efficiency. I beat a mid 90's eclipse gs vert who tried to race me at high speeds on I-95 in the southeast US. Mind you this was with the same oil in the pan, and having had two different amsoil high flow heavy duty filters aswell. If my personal experience can speak to anything more than some independent test can, amsoil holds up. I'd rather hear about real applications, not something done in a independent lab. I trust amsoil's products, and stand behind them fully.

 

Again, the huge wear difference issue during normal operating conditions is more than enough for me to not even ever have a though about using Mobil1. 1.468mm difference in wear scars is a significant difference...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found that the gas mileage stays relatively consistent in similar driving conditions. Most highway trips I average atleast 25-26mpg even if i'm driving 80...

 

Thicker oil does cause fuel efficiency to decrease to some degree. At 10k miles, which is 16,000km, your Amsoil would still have been well within grade.

 

My comments with respect to thickening are based on the many UOA's posted on that website where people ran 5W30/0W30 Amsoil for in excess of 20k miles, and while the oil continued to provide low wear properties, it had thickened well into and even past the SAE 40 viscosity (at 100degC), and delivered the characteristics of a SAE 50 viscosity oil. Left unchecked, this will eat into your fuel economy, but on a 10k mile drain, its highly unlikely you experienced any 'thickening' of the oil.

 

Mobil1 seems to resist the thickening better, albeit at the expense of higher wear. But the results of that particular UOA would be that its fairly clear that even cheap Wal-Mart Mobil1 can withstand a 12,500 mile interval without any excess wear or oil thickening.

 

Abeit higher wear???? I'm shocked that doesn't concern you. If there's one thing I'd be concerned about it'd be engine wear!!! Over the long run the mobil may hold up better chemically, but during normal & recommended operating conditions the amsoil synthetic is better hands down. Overall with amsoil, I can guaruntee you that my engine will hold up better than someone running mobil 1 going outside the recommended operating conditions, or for that matter within them. Mobil 1 is cheaper because it's not as good of an oil. Geez...I guess engine wear isn't important...

 

god damn. it's not like you're going to notice a difference between the oils.

 

i bet my 3,000 mile $10 oil changes engine is in just as good shape as your "Fully Synthetic" high-performance beast

 

okay just don't talk...remember i won this argument last time :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I respect your argument...

However, It will hold true to that ONLY IF you go significantly beyond the recommended mileage of about 15,000miles.

 

However, I am more than convinced that even when I have gone almost 3,000 miles over the reccomended change point by accident, I still had great gas mileage and I definately didn't loose any efficiency. I beat a mid 90's eclipse gs vert who tried to race me at high speeds on I-95 in the southeast US. Mind you this was with the same oil in the pan, and having had two different amsoil high flow heavy duty filters aswell. If my personal experience can speak to anything more than some independent test can, amsoil holds up. I'd rather hear about real applications, not something done in a independent lab. I trust amsoil's products, and stand behind them fully.

 

Again, the huge wear difference issue during normal operating conditions is more than enough for me to not even ever have a though about using Mobil1. 1.468mm difference in wear scars is a significant difference...

 

And I definitely respect you calling 'bullshit' on my comments when one of them was clearly wrong for the reasons I outlined earlier. In terms of those ASTM D1472 tests as given above, they do bring up some interesting questions:

 

* How applicable is a test done at 150degC (302degF) when oil temperatures do not typically ever reach that in our engines?

 

* Is this marketing 'fluff' by Amsoil in order to try and convince people compelling differences exist between their product and the competition?

 

* Who is this 'independant lab', and are they known to have credible results? How were the reference samples obtained?

 

* Does a 'wear scar' test really matter when the oil, when in actual service, Amsoil and Mobil1 generate nearly identical results with respect to wear?

 

* Will this really extend the life of your engine, or is the extra $$$ spent on Amsoil compared to Mobil1 better off put towards other stuff, ie: better cooling system or transmission maintenance, that will see greater returns?

 

The gas mileage losses I speak of would be on the order of 1 to 2 percent with the thickened Amsoil versus the Mobil1, definitely not something detectable on a single tank of fuel.

 

But it adds into the whole scenario of economics of the oil -- for an oil change interval of 25,000 km:

 

I burn roughly 1750L of fuel @ $0.759/L = $1328.25

 

A 2% difference in operating cost means $26.60

 

So, if I used the Amsoil, and it thickened up causing a 2% loss of efficiency over the entire interval, Amsoil would cost me at least $26.60 more to use than the Mobil1 oil. Not to mention the higher initial purchase price of Amsoil, as well as the higher cost of Amsoil for top-off oil. So Mobil1 5W30 is roughly $50/oil change interval cheaper, causes roughly the same amount of wear in the actual engine, and that $50 saved can be used to perhaps give the transmission the benefits of a synthetic ATF for even more $$$ savings during the cold weather.

 

Really, what this whole thread has proved is that its not as cut and dried as many think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found that the gas mileage stays relatively consistent in similar driving conditions. Most highway trips I average atleast 25-26mpg even if i'm driving 80...

 

Thicker oil does cause fuel efficiency to decrease to some degree. At 10k miles, which is 16,000km, your Amsoil would still have been well within grade.

 

My comments with respect to thickening are based on the many UOA's posted on that website where people ran 5W30/0W30 Amsoil for in excess of 20k miles, and while the oil continued to provide low wear properties, it had thickened well into and even past the SAE 40 viscosity (at 100degC), and delivered the characteristics of a SAE 50 viscosity oil. Left unchecked, this will eat into your fuel economy, but on a 10k mile drain, its highly unlikely you experienced any 'thickening' of the oil.

 

Mobil1 seems to resist the thickening better, albeit at the expense of higher wear. But the results of that particular UOA would be that its fairly clear that even cheap Wal-Mart Mobil1 can withstand a 12,500 mile interval without any excess wear or oil thickening.

 

Abeit higher wear???? I'm shocked that doesn't concern you. If there's one thing I'd be concerned about it'd be engine wear!!! Over the long run the mobil may hold up better chemically, but during normal & recommended operating conditions the amsoil synthetic is better hands down. Overall with amsoil, I can guaruntee you that my engine will hold up better than someone running mobil 1 going outside the recommended operating conditions, or for that matter within them. Mobil 1 is cheaper because it's not as good of an oil. Geez...I guess engine wear isn't important...

 

god damn. it's not like you're going to notice a difference between the oils.

 

i bet my 3,000 mile $10 oil changes engine is in just as good shape as your "Fully Synthetic" high-performance beast

 

okay just don't talk...remember i won this argument last time :lol:

 

funny i don't remember it that way.

 

anyways, go back to being the only working college member here. keep your dumbass remarks to yourself. i know my ass will get banned for the dumbest shit, so even though i'd really like to flame your ass i'm gonna have to keep it down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

god damn. it's not like you're going to notice a difference between the oils.

 

i bet my 3,000 mile $10 oil changes engine is in just as good shape as your "Fully Synthetic" high-performance beast

 

Oh yeah, you're likely absolutely correct. Only reason I give a damn about this stuff, my former job as a maintenance supervisor for an electrical utility aside, is that sticking to a more reasonable drain interval with higher quality oil:

 

* Saves money on the cost of the lubricant with equivilant wear protection.

 

* Saves the hassle of actually doing the oil changes.

 

* Saves the environment as less toxic waste is generated.

 

* Reduces the crap that gets boiled off through my PCV and crankcase breather systems, keeping them cleaner.

 

* Saves me from having to attempt to do an oil change in the dead of winter at -40C.

 

* Makes my car work better in the -40C cold we typically get here November through April.

 

But will my engine last longer than yours? Probably not. The same, probably, if we keep 'em both well maintained otherwise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if reg oil is such crap, how come i'm at 95K without any engine problems?

 

i can rattle off a whole list of 200K + engines i know of that have ran only reg oil, and still run strong

 

but, i guess reg oil is such crap, so idunno :roll:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if reg oil is such crap, how come i'm at 95K without any engine problems?

 

i can rattle off a whole list of 200K + engines i know of that have ran only reg oil, and still run strong

 

but, i guess reg oil is such crap, so idunno :roll:

 

 

Just drop the argument before you get heated and get your ass banned again? Reg. oil is fine as long as its cahnge every 3000 or so as it begins to break down over time. Synthetic takes longer to break down but has been known in some cases to gel up like diesle fuel if the weather is cold enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if reg oil is such crap, how come i'm at 95K without any engine problems?

 

i can rattle off a whole list of 200K + engines i know of that have ran only reg oil, and still run strong

 

but, i guess reg oil is such crap, so idunno :roll:

 

 

Just drop the argument before you get heated and get your ass banned again?

 

you're right. only certain members can flame. anyways, i'm done with this thread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Synthetic takes longer to break down but has been known in some cases to gel up like diesle fuel if the weather is cold enough.

 

Don't you mean 'regular oil' is known in some cases to gel up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not to high jack this but

where does royal purple oil fit into this???

all my mustang friends swear by it

 

Royal Purple is a company that manufactures and markets synthetic oil. Even more expensive than Amsoil apparently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not to high jack this but

where does royal purple oil fit into this???

all my mustang friends swear by it

 

Royal Purple is a company that manufactures and markets synthetic oil. Even more expensive than Amsoil apparently.

 

that is correct. I know we have atleast one person here who uses it. He and i had a discussion about the differences between the amsoil i use and his stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been wondering if it's truly safe to keep synthetic oil in for 5000+ miles. IF IT IS, then I have a good reason to switch my car over to full synthetic. Since April of this year (when I bought the car) I went from 94,300 miles to 108,xxx miles! That's 14 thousand miles in a hair over 6 months. You can imagine I change my oil about once a month. So being I have 108k I might be taking a few risks changing to synthetic, BUT, the engine internals are clean (prior owner must have taken great care of it- when I removed the valve covers, the heads were still silver), and no oil leaks. Unless I'm convinced otherwise, I think my next oil change will be synthetic, OR my next oil change will be syn blend, then the oil change after that will be full synthetic.

 

Update: I did a fill of Mobil 1 and a big ol' PF52, driving for over a week: No leaks, no consumption, if anything the engine is a hair quieter when cold. And the best part is I don't have to change it till next year :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...