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pitzel

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  1. Practically nothing on YouTube concerning LQ1 maintenance... If only all those years earlier, there was a good video or two with tips and tricks, maybe a few of these beasts could've been a bit more maintainable by the DIY crowd...
  2. Sounds like something that might've been done for a large fleet order in a locale without particularly severe weather to shave $500 off the price. But such cars wouldn't have been handled through the dealers. I once had a Ford truck at work that was like that, completely stripped of even the most basic options that would've been standard equipment in retail-sold vehicles. By the time 1999 rolled around, I suspect the only buyers of Luminas were institutional fleets.
  3. The speed sensor is built into the rear wheel bearing assembly, so if that's your issue (and I'm not offering a diagnosis), then you'd need to replace the entire bearing/speed sensor assembly as a unit. Unlike the front sensor and bearing, I don't believe the rears are separable.
  4. Sounds more like a speed sensor that's failing (ie: the ABS computer isn't receiving a signal that the wheel is moving, so its trying to apply anti-lock functionality to the brake), rather than something to do with the brake line(s). Having said that, obviously the brake line needs to be serviced. Can you (temporarily) disconnect the ABS unit's power wiring, and report whether or not the problem duplicates itself?
  5. Okay, further research indicates that the cluster uses a NDM457C chip (Nippon Denso) which is an EEPROM. There is a software/hardware combo, for about $80 (from China), that can program the chip "in circuit with appropriate probing of the chip. The NDM457C is exposed through the plastic case, so disassembly of the cluster isn't even required. The software allows for the clean entry of mileage, so "by hand" decoding of the EEPROM is unnecessary. Software/hardware at: http://www.microcontroller-cafe.com.ua/products/automotive/NDM457C Such system also reprograms the digital clusters in: 1) HONDA Prelude, 1994-1996 (OKI 16911G) 2) LEXUS LS, 1996-1999 (TC97101P) 3) LEXUS ES, CS, LS 1992-1995 (NDM457C) 4) GM Cutlas Suprime International, BUICK Regal 1991-1995, PONTIAK Grand AM (NDM457C) 5) GM Safari, Savana, Gxpress Astro, Caprice (Delco 51006A) 6) BUICK Reviera 1996-1999 (TC97101P) 7) SAAB 900, 1994-1996 (59C11) The problem is....its $80! Anyone else have the need to do any of this kind of work (odometer modification) on their UB3 or other NDM457C cluster?
  6. Anyone done this job? Replace the Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, without head removal? Factory manual wants the AC compressor removed to remove the mounting brace for the upper mounts. Does the AC system have to be opened, or can the compressor just be put aside (but still remain attached to the pressurized system)? Manifold bolts, are they prone to breaking in the aluminum heads? Or was that just an artifact of other designs? Is it realistic to do the rears at all without pulling the plenum and the intake? Just by rocking the engine forward? The leak isn't absolutely horrible at this point, and I drive mostly highway so the exhaust that gets sucked in through the A/C is pretty minimal, but just looking at the job, it seems that it could go sideways very quickly especially if bolts broke in the heads.
  7. ~12 years ago I bought a UB3 cluster that was run up to ~200k miles, and, stupidly believing that I would never own the car long enough to ever use it, ran it up to its upper limit with a signal generator. Now I regret that, and would like to actually use the UB3 cluster for its intended purpose. My car having 257k km's on it now. Anyone know how to actually roll these back or reprogram them?
  8. pitzel

    Oil?

    Just an update, now 257.4k km's on the engine, and oil hasn't been changed since 162k (km's). So almost nearly 100k km's (60k miles) since last oil change. Valve covers were removed last summer, looks pristine under there. Changed the oil pan gasket (and yes, saved and added the same motor oil back into the engine) at ~220k, pristine again. Was able to obtain the Esso XD-3 0W-30 successor, Mobil Delvac Elite 222 0W-30. (bought 60L of it in 20L pails, so there's no possibility of ever running out!). Its a HDEO so that's good for the flat tappet engines these 3.1L MPFI (LH0)'s are. My cold start problem, which I thought was an artifact of viscosity thickening, was actually relating to the spark plugs (apparently the Platinum plugs really aren't 100k mile plugs!). Still have ~5L of the original (2004-purchased) XD-3 which I'll use before converting over. I think I've done well motoring for 100k miles on a mere 20L of motor oil total, most of which ended up on the ground due to leaking.
  9. Yeah but these cars are plentiful in the junkyards. There's a few "fit and finish" sort of things like exterior trim kits, that would be nice to have "fresh" , but there's still enough of that stuff kicking around eBay and similar for most of these cars.
  10. The AC disable under load is an ECU command/function, not a separate module. You can read the status of the AC through the ECU and its ALDL data stream (ie: the 8192 baud setup on your 1993), so it must be provisioned by and through the ECU. Although quite frankly, the AC draws so little horsepower on these cars that it really wouldn't matter if that function wasn't working properly. I've never heard of the cut-out being a problem though. And because the V5 AC compressor in these cars is variable vanes, the relay doesn't tend to cycle that much. Unlike my Honda, with a fixed displacement compressor, in which the ECU is constantly hammering on the relay to turn it on and off (to the point of breaking the relay!). Alternatively, your AC compressor system is probably working properly and cutting out under load, *but* you have a vacuum leak or bad vacuum check valve. Or a very worn engine or leaky intake that can't pull any vacuum. As for the wetness on the floor, get underneath (on jackstands or a lift) and clean out the drain. Dirt and grime will mix with the water and occlude the drain. You might have to get in there with a knife and cut a larger drain hole.
  11. Did you try an impact gun before using the breaker bar? I'm kind of thinking that using a big-a** breaker bar might've been a mistake (retrospectively). Although your rust situation probably is a lot worse than mine was when I had mine out a few years back to do the oil pan.
  12. Yup those things work awesome Shurkey. Best purchase I've made in a long time was buying a set. They're also great for removing the power steering pressure hose from the rack when you have to saw it off and can't seem to turn it off with a socket alone due to fitment issues.
  13. pitzel

    Why not Quad 4

    Found this on YouTube: "Pancake batter". Kind of resembles the sort of cold-weather problems that are arising in some of the newest low-displacement 4-cylinder engines. Can't imagine the dealers liked selling engines that had that problem...
  14. What kind of "parts" are you looking for?
  15. A diode failure in a 3-phase to DC rectifier would cause noticeable ripple. I had that happen with a previous alternator. I'm not convinced anything is actually wrong with my alternator -- I'm just wondering if, in the view of the astute people, there was an engineering change to the voltage regulators at some point in an effort to protect the systems from overheating during those high temperature, low RPM regimes, and thus improve reliability. After all, there is somewhat of a double whammy -- the voltage regulator would have to go full field to produce voltage at a low RPM, yet the low RPM obviously draws a significantly reduced volume of cooling air over the circuitry. I do remember growing up the family having a H-Body with the CS-130 in the late 80s/early 90s, and having all sorts of problems with it early on. Although now that I think of it, as time wore on, and it was replaced a few times, reliability did improve. BTW, when I say "stops charging", I don't get any indication on the dash other than my voltage drops. The 'alternator' light or "check gauges" light does not come on... So I'm really just inclined to think that dropping out is just the engineered functionality of the voltage regulator/exciter. When the RPM's are at driving speed, or the thing is cold, voltages are nice and high. Up to 15V at -35C starts. Wow, you actually got 100k out of a CS-130? That's amazing...
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