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  1. jiggity76

    jiggity76

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  2. 94 olds vert

    94 olds vert

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  3. Amanita

    Amanita

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    l67ss

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/26/2021 in all areas

  1. 55trucker

    Suspension cross member

    Yeahhh.........
    2 points
  2. 55trucker

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    You could remove the silly thing altogether & pick up a complete rear stabilizer bar for the platform & install that. It would make a world of difference where the rear handling is concerned.
    2 points
  3. mfewtrail

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    Check out that thread.
    2 points
  4. GTP091

    Hi, I had this car given to me

    And major Props for keeping the LQ1 man. Maybe you’ll be able to put collector plates on it? Not sure how the US works that out but should be cheap insurance if you can.
    2 points
  5. GTP091

    Hi, I had this car given to me

    I imagine the engine is completely intact? If it was running well when you pulled the cradle I’d check for leaks and leave it be otherwise. check: the timing belt condition. If it’s frayed or showing it’s age, or any cracks, replace it. So much easier to do out of the car. pesky distributor o ring is a leak nightmare but if it’s dry leave it. It’s under the plenum and serviceable in the car if it does leak. (Search - there’s a sticky) Did the exhaust manifolds leak? If so replace the gaskets while it’s out. did you measure the charging voltage? The alternator i
    2 points
  6. GTP091

    Suspension cross member

    Ya that’s it. Nothing to buy anywhere that I looked except OEM cats. No big deal if I can get one and sandblast it and paint etc that’s all I’m after. Have you ever taken yours off?
    1 point
  7. carkhz316

    LS4 swap begins

    Finally......a clutch kit. I'll be bringing the Monte back home to tear into it soon.
    1 point
  8. Regal

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    Final update for the job; yup, finished off the other side in no time at all. Took the car on the highway and at first wasn’t sure what to think but by the end of the ride the difference/improvement was apparent. I hear there may be some break in time also. The rear end has a slightly more aggressive and attractive stance than before (sorry, a bit dark by the time I snapped photo). I think having done this now makes it more obvious that the front struts need doing too! Got those too but need to figure out the special tool situation. Suppose it’s possible the rear leaf spring or its bushin
    1 point
  9. Regal

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    Already a big difference and I can see why that step is crucial. 3/8 is apparently what fits in mine (possibly these were replaced in the past?) for anyone reading this in the future if you’re having difficulties. It’s also a good thing I picked up a second longer bolt as the shorter one only catches on one side, at least after being partially taken apart. One question I have is whether there’s an ideal height to compress them to in order to bang the lower fasteners. Hopefully will have them out before anyone sees this. I guess this piece of junk wasn’t seized, just stuck in place by
    1 point
  10. ron350

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    Yep just a plain 4 door 96 Regal with no rear sway bar. Here is a picture of the bolt that I used to compress that rubber damper thing. I used a Chevy rocker arm ball instead of washers. The 10 x 1.5 mm fits so tight you can save yourself a lot of trouble and use the 3/8 x 16 threads per inch bolt.
    1 point
  11. 55trucker

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    I take it that your Regal has the FE1 suspension & does not have installed a rear stabilizer bar? As far as I remember those auxiliary dampeners were a poor mans anti-roll bar. They were there to add some anti roll capabilities to the rear suspension. When cornering the load on the outboard side of the car will cause the car to lean down & the opposite side would raise up, the dampener load increases when the rear inboard (body connection end) lateral link pivots upwards, and the reverse happens when the inboard lateral link end pivots downwards. They had nothing to do w
    1 point
  12. ron350

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    The correct bolt should be a 10 x 1.5 mm (about) 6 inch long all thread bolt. Years ago when I did my rear struts I could only fins a 3/8 x 16 sae 6 inch bolt and it worked just fine. The bolt does not thread all the way through, see first picture. That arm does NOT have a hole in it under the bracket.
    1 point
  13. 1992GrandPrixSE

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    The bolts included with the Monroe Quick-Struts I replaced on my 1992 Cutlass Supreme coupe were useless for their intended purpose. One was too short (yes, the struts did not include identical bolts) and the other one seemed long enough but it just wouldn't thread into the bracket. I ended up purchasing a Kent-Moore auxiliary spring compressor on eBay and it was worth every penny. Those auxiliary springs are a bitch. You'll see what I'm talking about once you get the bracket and spring off, because they have to come off to replace the strut anyway. I'm hoping my Grand Prix and Lumina Z34
    1 point
  14. Amanita

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    My strut mounts were pretty shot so I didn't even bother disassembling the strut from the mount when I removed them. The only thing I can really tell you to help is that the nut on the top side is a 24mm, at least the ones that came with my KYBs are.
    1 point
  15. oldmangrimes

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    Can you re-use the old bolt?
    1 point
  16. Amanita

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    I replaced all 4 struts in my '96 Grand Prix coupe last year. I don't remember needing any specific tools for removing the rear struts, however for the front ones I had to buy a specific toolkit off ebay.
    1 point
  17. 1992GrandPrixSE

    Any pros have rear suspension tips/info?

    (1) What year/model is the car you're working on? (2) Does your rear suspension have a sway bar or what GM referred to as "auxiliary springs," which are figure-8 shaped black rubber springs that sit under a metal bracket bolted to the strut assembly?
    1 point
  18. GTP091

    GTP wont start.

    Found another guaranteed culprit on this no start situation. Injector #1 measured out at 1.6 ohms where all the others measure at 12.7. I hooked up the injector to my injector tester and hit the multi fire test button and it’s completely dead. All the others fire just fine but not going to chance it so I’ve ordered 6 new injectors. Will be interesting to see how it runs after I replace both bad parts. Ill have to remove the Fuel rail but the FPR is a really tight fit so will make that a breeze now that the rail is coming off. more beer for me! And I’ll have a chance to paint some
    1 point
  19. GTP091

    GTP wont start.

    This is just how I do it. All in all it’s a 3 beer job?
    1 point
  20. heineraa

    HUD display questions for 92 GP

    Hi everyone, I just had a few questions to ask you guys. I am picking up a 92 Grand Prix GTP next week to modify my 92 Grand Prix SE with and I was wondering if any of you knew if it is possible to wire the heads-up display that came in the higher trim levels into the ones that did not come with one. I am not very concerned about the trip computer and information center since I don’t want to go to the trouble of tearing apart my entire interior. I planned on swapping the dashboard anyways because the new one isn’t cracked the way mine is. If anyone has any info, it would be greatly appre
    1 point
  21. 94 olds vert

    HUD display questions for 92 GP

    It is possible and others have done it. Your car might be pre-wired for HUD and a DIC. When you take the dash off to replace it, you might find the wiring harness you need. If not, wiring in a hud and dic isn't that difficult to do. Lots of resources on this forum if you dig around a bit.
    1 point
  22. 95cutlassv3rt

    Hi, I had this car given to me

    So, I am sure alot of you have moved on to other posts, I have put alot of thought, energy, and spare time with basic tools. I decided, after alot of research, the LQ1 is going to stay and I purchased a used transmission with a warranty. I have cleaned the engine bay and am going to detail the engine and bay. What preventative maintenance should I be doing while everything is apart? Is there any performance/reliability issues I can correct or add while I have it this broken down?
    1 point
  23. Torque converter clutches cause stalling at very low speed, like when the car comes to a stop. Which is why they're always disabled in first gear. They do NOT cause stalling at highway speed like you described. The trans will run hot when the converter clutch is NOT locked up, because most of the heat in a transmission is created by the fluid in the torque converter getting churned around until the molecules get dizzy. When the converter clutch is engaged, the fluid isn't being churned--so there's little heat generated. Disabling the torque converter clutch was a TERRIBLE idea. Do n
    1 point
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