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I painted mine. Masked off the brake pad contact area. Held up pretty good 20+ years later, but I never drive it in winter.

Don't know how important this was to the corrosion resistance, but I forgot to mention I primed mine with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Compound spray. It worked surprisingly well as a primer on bare metal. It never chipped, flaked, or peeled. I don't know if it's the same formula today as the one I used a couple decades ago. Photos looks like it's now a smooth gray primer appearance, but mine was a very sparkly shiny bright metallic silver color. Almost looked like fine very fine glitter. Still have the can and looks like it's the same can as the current product though, so who knows.

You get it, you have those rims that visually open up the brake/suspension components much like the rims I have. When the rims and tires look good the rusty looking parts stand out. All the replacement parts for our 1st gens almost immediately flash rust out of the box and most 1st gen rims are mesh or solid so it never mattered, until 2026 when these are the "newest" classic antiques. I`m not trying to build a show car but something resembling a higher optioned factory 1 off that might show up at a show or randomly in traffic because the MPGs on a 3100.

DOUBLE UPDATE - some really great news to report here. I was hoping for this and it just might be coming true..........I have been monitoring the amount of oil dripping in my flat pan since the return of the car, and its getting less and less. It may just be this was residual oil already on places on the motor that were not able to be wiped off, and I just might something here, an almost non-oil leaking LQ-1. Even the wife noticed how well the car is running, and if she notices, now that can't be bad, can it...........

SOLVED! It’s unreal, but the shop installed the wrong spark plugs! Gapped to 0.060” instead of 0.045”. I put the OEM plugs and it runs great.

UPDATE: Got the car back yesterday. A fantastic job was done by the mechanic. Maybe it's just me but the motor seems to be quieter and it's running much better, must be all those new intake gaskets(?). I checked this morning, there is no more oil coming from the oil pump drive, so it looks like the RTV will probably hold. Unfortunately the car is still leaking oil, coming from the lower part of the motor. Not anywhere near as bad as it was though, so for now it will be something I can live with. They also cleaned the engine compartment out of all the oil & grease, changed the oil, and installed a new EGR replacing the original one. Thanks to all for the advice on this one, this is one less major issue this LQ1 now has

I don't remember there being too much different in the wiring. I had installed a GM Accessories alarm in the '88 and was able to completely go by the wiring diagram and service manual of the '89.

UPDATE: I was just advised the mechanic is going to elect to go the RTV route; the head will not be pulled for this job. I think you can all hear the huge yell of relief coming from this desk. I'll be sure to post once completed.

Factory cassette deck is my choice for any 1st gen!

I was in the car audio industry for 10 years in my younger days. I’d strongly suggest you use the crossovers on those tweeters. If you don’t, you’ll be sending full range to them and they will go pop. They cant handle any low or midrange frequencies, they’ll also sound much better with the crossovers. Good place to stuff the crossovers is behind the kick panels. I would suggest Velcro and a zip tie to hold them in place. I’ve had my crossovers there for years with no issues. It’s easy to drop the wire down from up top when the dash pad is removed. Solder and heat shrink!

I bought this 1994 Cutlass Supreme from the auction and who ever had it didn't finish the swap but I found out it's a 3.8 out of a Grand Prix.

Check out Crutchfield. I got a single din radio/CD from them for my 95, Olds 88. With there free install kit, it was virtually plug and play.

yeah, it's in my gallery, this is the old head unit that was in the car, but the kit is the same one

L26 Swap Electrical portion C100 Connector, 96 Harness on left side, 95 Body harness on right side. Directions follows for harness changes: Cut E1 wire, reposition into A3 Connector. Run wire through fire wall and through A1 Port after disconnecting J2. Disconnect K1 and isolate. For K1, Battery Fused wire will need to be fused. I Spliced into the 60 Amp Maxi fuse circuit for the 3.4L Air pump circuit. Pump consumes 25Amp (No longer used). Spliced into a circuit requiring 15 amps for Sund Roof/power windows/locks/Digital Temp Control. Wire pulled from K1 DOHC Harness and reconnected into 1996 Regal harness circuit. Also Trans wiring. Verify Which harness you have on the 1996 trans. OBDII Conversion: Cut off OBDI Connector, Cut off OBDII connector from junkyard. Match up all colors the same. Orange to orange (needs to be fused into B+) Both Black wires spliced into OBDII Black wire, Tan to Tan. Note the purple wire is spliced into my Serial Data wire I fed through C100 connector from A1.

It's a Pioneer AVH-P6800DVD w/AVIC-9DVD add-on navigation unit. I bought the HU in 2007, installed it in 2008, and just this week finally made it down to the paint store to get some paint that matches the original color so I could paint my dash bezel and finish it up. I procrastinate too much! I'm not sure how long it actually took to install, I worked on it anywhere from 30-minutes to a couple hours a day for 2-weeks or so. Pics didn't come out so great (way more bluish than real life), but you get the idea. Purely coincidentally, the aqua text Pioneer used matches the digital dash color perfectly. Navigation mode iPod in the center console iPod fits neatly into one of the cassette slots in the console because it's housed in a modified cassette case.