Leaderboard

I painted mine. Masked off the brake pad contact area. Held up pretty good 20+ years later, but I never drive it in winter.

Don't know how important this was to the corrosion resistance, but I forgot to mention I primed mine with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Compound spray. It worked surprisingly well as a primer on bare metal. It never chipped, flaked, or peeled. I don't know if it's the same formula today as the one I used a couple decades ago. Photos looks like it's now a smooth gray primer appearance, but mine was a very sparkly shiny bright metallic silver color. Almost looked like fine very fine glitter. Still have the can and looks like it's the same can as the current product though, so who knows.

You get it, you have those rims that visually open up the brake/suspension components much like the rims I have. When the rims and tires look good the rusty looking parts stand out. All the replacement parts for our 1st gens almost immediately flash rust out of the box and most 1st gen rims are mesh or solid so it never mattered, until 2026 when these are the "newest" classic antiques. I`m not trying to build a show car but something resembling a higher optioned factory 1 off that might show up at a show or randomly in traffic because the MPGs on a 3100.

DOUBLE UPDATE - some really great news to report here. I was hoping for this and it just might be coming true..........I have been monitoring the amount of oil dripping in my flat pan since the return of the car, and its getting less and less. It may just be this was residual oil already on places on the motor that were not able to be wiped off, and I just might something here, an almost non-oil leaking LQ-1. Even the wife noticed how well the car is running, and if she notices, now that can't be bad, can it...........

SOLVED! It’s unreal, but the shop installed the wrong spark plugs! Gapped to 0.060” instead of 0.045”. I put the OEM plugs and it runs great.

UPDATE: Got the car back yesterday. A fantastic job was done by the mechanic. Maybe it's just me but the motor seems to be quieter and it's running much better, must be all those new intake gaskets(?). I checked this morning, there is no more oil coming from the oil pump drive, so it looks like the RTV will probably hold. Unfortunately the car is still leaking oil, coming from the lower part of the motor. Not anywhere near as bad as it was though, so for now it will be something I can live with. They also cleaned the engine compartment out of all the oil & grease, changed the oil, and installed a new EGR replacing the original one. Thanks to all for the advice on this one, this is one less major issue this LQ1 now has

I don't remember there being too much different in the wiring. I had installed a GM Accessories alarm in the '88 and was able to completely go by the wiring diagram and service manual of the '89.

UPDATE: I was just advised the mechanic is going to elect to go the RTV route; the head will not be pulled for this job. I think you can all hear the huge yell of relief coming from this desk. I'll be sure to post once completed.

I bought this 1994 Cutlass Supreme from the auction and who ever had it didn't finish the swap but I found out it's a 3.8 out of a Grand Prix.

Don't forget. Like I said on FB that 99 gtp pcm will be plug and play on your lumina once it's swapped. No tuning or messing with antitheft needed

L26 Swap Electrical portion C100 Connector, 96 Harness on left side, 95 Body harness on right side. Directions follows for harness changes: Cut E1 wire, reposition into A3 Connector. Run wire through fire wall and through A1 Port after disconnecting J2. Disconnect K1 and isolate. For K1, Battery Fused wire will need to be fused. I Spliced into the 60 Amp Maxi fuse circuit for the 3.4L Air pump circuit. Pump consumes 25Amp (No longer used). Spliced into a circuit requiring 15 amps for Sund Roof/power windows/locks/Digital Temp Control. Wire pulled from K1 DOHC Harness and reconnected into 1996 Regal harness circuit. Also Trans wiring. Verify Which harness you have on the 1996 trans. OBDII Conversion: Cut off OBDI Connector, Cut off OBDII connector from junkyard. Match up all colors the same. Orange to orange (needs to be fused into B+) Both Black wires spliced into OBDII Black wire, Tan to Tan. Note the purple wire is spliced into my Serial Data wire I fed through C100 connector from A1.