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I mean its like any corrosion related failure, its good till its not. Can't actually say it might be good till you hit a pothole wrong and then its game over. Might go 2 years might go 2 weeks.

Other side is perfect i tested it with a hammer. I also tested the one in tge pictures and it was solid everywhere outside of that little hole. It held a jack.. how bad do these get before they fail? I dont want to junk it bc the floors and fuel/brake lines are perfect

Listen, i'm an idiot. I'm presently putting a new transmission in my 375k daily driver. If the underside looked like that I wouldn't be. Anything is fixable, but that's a pretty complex area and a critical one at that. I can see that the rocker and quarter is made of thin air and the metal around the mount isn't that much better. I know used car prices are out to lunch not but not sure I would put the effort in based on what you're telling us. Then again if you've already bought the engine do the minimum to get the car up and running and scrap it after it finishes breaking.

They ain't making those cars any more. Maybe you can weld-in a repair? And verify the other side, too.

Im putting a $250 junkyard motor in my prix and wondering if its worth it with this rust or should i just junk it. Reason it looks muddy is because i put fluid film on it last fall

Hey guys, not sure if I’m replying correctly to these. First things first. Nice engine! Next, thank you for the schematic… Lastly I’m down to code 43 and 53. Knock sensor is new. It’s not running properly. Is smoother now but am curious if you guys have the magic fix? Thanks again for all the helpful information. I got some dielectric grease and electric cleaner. I noticed gm had a bulletin to clean and grease the wiring harness connector. I assume to the ecm. Probably should do all the connector’s I can get to. Could be bad ecm if it doesn’t help. the fan kicks on at weird time’s also. Something electrical is not letting it run right. High idle still also. Iac new.

Update: I found out that the issue of being limited to 104.05MHz is probably how it is supposed to be, at least for European versions. This German article ( http://www.fieros.de/de/articles/radio.html ) describes that a diode can be put in a Fiero radio to enable steps of 50kHz, instead of the 200kHz in the USA version (uneven multiples of 100kHz). In Europe, steps of 100kHz are used, 50kHz maybe exceptionally in Italy, so the modification makes sense. But this modification also limits the receiver from 87.5 to 104.05MHz. Since European frequencies go up to 108MHz, it is rather strange that it was deemed sufficient to receive only about 60% of all radio stations...

I also have that Kent-Moore kit and it's so handy. For the 91-93 LQ1's, the cam cog puller is a must as well. Starting in 94, GM switched to a lock washer and bolt system that doesn't require this tool. Both of my LQ1's are within that 91-93 year range. This tool right here, this puller, is an absolute blessing! After my local GM dealer said my original motor had a timing issue...and I knew the belt was good and timed correctly, I assumed it was the timing chain. This is a puller for the timing chain and sprockets. The chain and sprockets have to be pulled as one unit due to how they're designed like most timing chain systems. Because of the tight tolerances between the dampener/nose of the crankshaft and right side frame rail, a conventional puller to my knowledge won't fit in that area. I even rented the smallest puller they had a my local parts store and it was still way to big to even try and lock onto the sprockets. I found this bridge puller I think it's called years ago on Ebay. SO GLAD I BOUGHT IT!!!! The GM dealer wanted to either drop the engine cradle on the passenger side or if need be, drop the entire cradle and drivetrain out of my Olds International Cutlass for the repair. Total bill was going to be estimated between $5500-6500. This bridge puller allowed me to do the job myself and only costing me about $100 bucks. This includes the price of the puller, the chain/sprockets, and the guides. This kit also included the tool to drive the crankshaft sprocket and dampener back onto the crankshaft. The repair process and bridge puller being used. You can see the tight tolerances of where this tool needs to work and how beautifully it all fit together. Again, this specialty tool saved me THOUSANDS of dollars! New timing set in place.

That's what the mechanic said. It was a very easy fix because everything was relatively easy to access. I have no idea about special tools; I just knew that repair was above my pay grade.

How many special tools have you had to aquire? I bought a Kent-Moore GM 3.4 DOHC tool kit off of EBay years ago, but haven't looked in a while to see what is available anymore.

I'm probably alone in this but I feel the LQ1 isn't that hard to work on. Granted, they do require special tools but like anything mechanical, the right tools for the job helps tremendously. The water pump is very easy to get at in particular. Right there out in the open.

So, a few weeks ago, I was driving my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible over to a friend's house, and the car started running a little hot, not overheating, but hotter than I was comfortable with. When I got back home, I looked under the hood, the overflow jug was empty and things were quite wet down by the water pump. It was right at the end of the spring semester, so I just didn't have time to mess with it, beyond pouring in a gallon of antifreeze until today, when I sent it over to my mechanic's shop, and amazingly, he had a water pump for it sitting on the shelf, had the whole thing done in less than four hours. That just never happens. Even better, it was a comparatively inexpensive repair. He was a little afraid there might have been head gasket damage, but everything checked out okay in the end. The best part was the repair was a bit less expensive than I expected. He ballparked it at around $280-$400, and it came in at $281 and change. I'm stoked that I don't have to miss anymore prime convertible weather.

that’s totally fair. And I totally get the desire and challenge and that being worth it alone!! Not sure I’ll tackle it but I think it’s awesome it can be done and with the 5 speed too!

An "OBD2 scanner" doesn't work on a '95, because '95 is not OBD2. Therefore, you'd need a scan tool compatible with what is now known as "OBD1". They tend to be more expensive, and need a different adapter/connector for every brand of vehicle since there's dozens of proprietary connector bodies on the vehicles. Every manufacturer used a different style of connnector. GM alone had several depending on application. A decent scan tool will work with GM products from 1980 1/2, onward to the limit of their software--often post-2000, perhaps all the way to 2024. Mine goes up to 2007, but since I don't own a vehicle newer than 2003, I'm all set.

EXACTLY the same way you'd connect to any other vehicle with a diagnostic connector. '95 is no different in that regard. Find a compatible scan tool, use the correct adapter, connect it to the diagnostic connector. You may need to supply "12 volt" power to the scan tool via a cigarette-lighter power adapter or similar. Follow the instructions for the scan tool to type in the VIN number or whatever it takes to make the tool "talk" to the on-board computer. Guys get all weird about pre-OBD2 vehicles and scan tools. No need. Just use a DECENT scan tool, and it'll work out just fine. If you use a craptastic "code reader", or some consumer-grade bottom-feeder junk tool, you can expect it to be useless or worse, problematic.

I don't have experience with the older on board computers but a standard OBD2 scanner will not fit a pre-96 car. It's a different system.

Question...how do you connect a scan tool to a 1995?

LMAO, I meant to post this on another forum discussing old lawnmowers! They dont know what I`m talking about over there either.

I used something very similar on the `95 convertible if not the same thing. Way back in 2015 there was a high flow cat converter w/ downpipe option I went with. Bolted right up to the rear manifold but I had a shop build everything from the cat back, I`m sure it would line up with the factory pipe close enough a shop can work with it.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I don't get online as much these days. Anyway, that question is hard for me to answer because I can't comment to the expense and value aspect as I just wanted to always do the LS4 swap. I didn't have any real budget or horsepower goal in mind. I simply wanted to do it to prove to myself that I could. If someone is going for straight power vs cost, it would probably be cheapest to turbo a 3800, and blow the LS4 away. But for me, yes, it was 'worth' it to just do it and have it work.

What is the fuel pressure? How old are the usual "tune-up" items--plug wires, spark plugs, O2 sensor, verify PCV, EGR, and EVAP systems. Check cranking compression pressure. How old is the timing belt? Connect a scan tool, verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Check fuel trims. O2 sensors get lazy with age. If the O2 sensor has more than 50,000 miles or 5 years on it, it's probably due for replacement. If there's a misfiring cylinder, it can drive the O2 sensor to report a false-lean condition. That will drive the computer into rich-command. Expect that the rich running has murdered the catalyst.

Has anyone used one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/404754218886?epid=169594596&itmmeta=01HXN86SDHPDG0QC354JY4A2JH&hash=item5e3d3b3f86:g:hNcAAOSwLX9lx9Ja&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwB1bYArsSNNQTeXRP0konEpGR207mbIaDI8geL2Bbyet%2Fp16sFpjEYFKKUSMthFDxpvVSOoL2cL03Gpo2fAz5ukJfFaqnLMZH4YY6450FiMDkVSnE0jReCnJkhYvk8UBp8b%2Bw7lP6O14KDnrKwhIvt%2BK7qUTQqfdkSEceFgYt3aDMIF4KoBo3jA03sEMv%2BxnCLiZq076jyHBWct%2FD1ZeaAzgU%2BBWE1HmQ3OHD00iYIP5bZgT4H4Lb8SSCaI6x6MAYQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-yWm6jtYw

Which gasket are you referring too? The ones that match up to the exhaust manifolds or headers?

That's a good looking TGP you have there. I don't have a TGP, my Grand Prix is from '96, but red with the spoiler is exactly how I would want mine.

Possibly, the turbo is a Garrett T25/28 series... do a search for the turbo flange gasket for that model turbo, I'd imagine that they are still a common item. I've been out of Chrysler turbo cars for some time now.