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Found 10 results

  1. I'm looking to upgrade the suspension for my '96 Grand Prix and I'm not sure where I should start. Are there any parts that should be upgraded before I consider anything else? Additionally, I've seen all the posts about different ways to give 1st gen w bodies coil overs but I'm not sure what would be the least headache-inducing. Any advice is appreciated, this is my first project and what I'm really learning to work on cars with.
  2. On my 2007 GP in the past I've done the following: - New T-Stat. 195*F which is stock. - Bled cooling system with one of these: - Checked/re-checked coolant levels. My issue is this: the car gets up to temperature just fine. Once the T-Stat opens and I'm traveling at highway speeds (55mph or so) the temp on the gauge and inside the vehicle drops. It isn't cold per say but it's chilly enough that my windshield won't get fully cleaned off. My past W's were always HOT in the winter and this is lukewarm at best. During the summer the temps get to the middle mark and stay there even in extreme heat it rarely moves above the middle. Now I'm lucky to be on the first hash. (there are 4 bigs lines on the 04+ so I use the middle one as 'where it should be') This car doesn't have the metal cap so I'm thinking maybe replace that next. The only things done to the car are intake and I've removed the engine cover.
  3. Hello all. Problems with subject vehicle are detailed here: And so it's time. Pics will follow, it's blue black with the special spoiler and a working sunroof. On the one hand, most of the miles were easy - I had a long commute, didn't drive it hard, I kept up with Amsoil and what-not, including changeout in the supercharger. LIM gasket done (and upper and valve cover while you're at it...) at about 120K. K & M air filter, Engine sounds good, cruise still works, air conditioner's been done (converted to the new stuff) and still works; virtually no wear on anything inside but the drivers' seat. Original embroidered mat on passenger side, why I didn't keep the driver's side mat aside I'll never know - wore a hole in it an my wife pitched it. Tires are Goodyear Tripletread new just before last winter - I have the Sam's Club paperwork. Amsoil oil change 7 wks ago. If I could get a cheap tranny and do the work, it'd be on the road again, but that's over my head (in more ways than one - and I don't have a lift). I have the title here as well as the original window sticker & all paperwork. On the other hand, the tranny is probably gone, or at least the lock-up converter, no problem moving it low speed around the house at least. The paint is hard and the quarter panels have the usual rust - driver's side is barely hanging on. TCS doesn't worked, radio clock light is out, and the gas gauge hasn't worked for a while,(thought the gas mileage computer and "fuel used", oil life calculation, range & boost gauge work fine); both key fobs got lost. If I trade it in, it's headed to the auction. I'd rather see it go to one of y'all for parts or project. Still, UI'd consider the car immobile, or you'd better not have far to go. I hope someone can use it. I really don't have any idea how much to ask for it. I just put $400+ into the tires last year! Life... I have more pics but let's see what you think of these.
  4. Looking for a 1994-96 grandprix parts car I need the under body and body to be clean don't need Motor or anything just metal. Also looking to buy a 1997 monte carlo z34 parts car would like it to run can be completely rusted I need the obd2 stuff and the tranny.
  5. So the plastic latch assembly broke on my 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix and of course the door wont stay closed. I've got it removed from the door, but I can't figure out how to get the tumbler out. Not that I have that much room in there. My question is, how do you remove the lock tumbler assembly from the latch assembly? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. I have some parts for sale that I took off of my black 4-door 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Special Edition before junking it. I may have additional parts I will list as I come across them, but the parts I currently have ready to go are listed below (followed by pics). *There are no "dibs", as I do not hold parts for anyone. First to pay for the part gets it.* If you are serious about buying, or are looking to get more than one item, there is some room to talk on pricing, but please do not bother with lowball offers. Payment can be cash in person, or as a gift payment through PayPal in advance. I would prefer not to ship the bigger pieces, so locals will have first crack/preference on those. I live in the Naperville/East Aurora area (Illinois) and am willing to meet with someone up to the Warrenville, Lisle, West Chicago, etc. area, but no further. If you have any questions, please PM me. SPECIAL EDITION SPECIFIC PARTS Spoiler (without trunk lid) - $100 FIRM This is the same spoiler found on the 2000 Daytona 500 and 40th Anniversary Editions. Clear coat peeling badly on spoiler, but in otherwise solid shape. NO TRUNK LID! *SOLD* Special Edition roof rails/fences - $150 Again, same as found on the 2000 Daytona 500 and 40th Anniversary Editions. In pretty solid overall condition. Also fits the Monte Carlo! *SOLD* Special Edition 2-tone interior - $250 2-tone charcoal/graphite and light gray. Includes front passenger seat, both parts of back seat, all 4 door panels (sedan) and gray dash and center console trim pieces. The driver's seat was rough, so I did not keep it. The rest is in decent shape. REGULAR GP/GTP PARTS Heads-up display (HUD) - $80 Includes HUD unit, dash cover and switches; wire harnesses can be included if needed. *SOLD* Driver Info Center (DIC) - $40 Works perfectly. *SOLD* Factory 7-band EQ CD Player - $30 Some of the lights stopped working after I opened up the faceplate to swap display light bulbs, but the display works and it plays CDs without a problem. *SOLD* Front strut tower bar - $15/each *only 1 left* - These are the same bars found on the Regal GS and Monte Carlo SS, as well as the GMPP handling kit upgrade. Can be used on front or rear. There's a little bit of rust where the bolts were, but they're in decent overall shape. *SOLD* GMPP font & rear sway bar kit - $130 Only about 1000 miles on these. This upgrades the front sway bar to 34mm. The ends of the stock hollow sway bars are known for rusting out and breaking off. If you have to replace it anyway, might as well upgrade! Comes with end links and bushings. *SOLD* ZZP 3" catted bolt-in downpipe - $200 This is 100% brand new. I bought it several years ago and never installed it. It is currently $220+ shipping on ZZP's site to configure a downpipe this way, so you can save a decent chunk of change.
  7. Accelerator Control Cable Bracket Bolt 16 N·m 12 lb ft Balance Shaft Driven Gear Bolt 22 + 70° N·m 16 + 70° lb ft Balance Shaft Retainer Bolt 30 N·m 22 lb ft Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt 10 N·m 89 lb in Camshaft Sprocket Bolt 100 + 90° N·m 74 + 90° lb ft Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt 15 N·m 11 lb ft Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Bracket Bolt (VIN K) 50 N·m 37 lb ft Canister Purge Vacuum Switch Bolt (VIN K) 50 N·m 37 lb ft Connecting Rod Cap Bolt 27 + 50° N·m 20 + 50° lb ft Crankshaft Balancer Bolt 150 + 76° N·m 111 + 76° lb ft Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolt 40 + 110° N·m 30 + 110° lb ft Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolt (Side) 15 + 45° N·m 11 + 45° lb ft Crankshaft Position Sensor Stud 30 N·m 22 lb ft Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Housing Bolt 15 + 50° N·m 11 + 50° lb ft Cylinder Head Bolt 50 + 120° N·m 37 + 120° lb ft Drive Belt Tensioner Bracket Bolt/Nut 50 N·m 37 lb ft Drive Belt Tensioner Bracket Stud 6 N·m 53 lb in EGR Valve Adapter Bolt 50 N·m 37 lb ft EGR Valve Inlet Pipe Bolt 29 N·m 21 lb ft EGR Valve Nut 29 N·m 21 lb ft EGR Valve Outlet Pipe Bolt/Nut 29 N·m 21 lb ft Engine Block Coolant Drain Plug (VIN 1) 18 N·m 13 lb ft Engine Block Coolant Drain Plug (VIN K) 30 N·m 22 lb ft Engine Block Oil Gallery Plug 30 N·m 22 lb ft Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 25 N·m 18 lb ft Engine Flywheel Bolt 15 + 50° N·m 11 + 50° lb ft Engine Front Cover Bolt/Stud 20 + 40° N·m 15 + 40° lb ft Engine Lift Bracket Bolt/Nut/Stud 30 N·m 22 lb ft Engine Mount Nut, Lower 78 N·m 58 lb ft Engine Mount Nut, Upper 78 N·m 58 lb ft Engine Oil Pressure Indicator Switch 16 N·m 12 lb ft Exhaust Crossover Heat Shield Nut 20 N·m 15 lb ft Exhaust Crossover Pipe Bolt/Stud 18 N·m 13 lb ft Exhaust Manifold Bolt/Nut 30 N·m 22 lb ft Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Nut 20 N·m 15 lb ft Exhaust Manifold Stud (Inner) 30 N·m 22 lb ft Exhaust Manifold Stud (Outer) 10 N·m 89 lb in Fuel Injector Rail Nut 10 N·m 89 lb in Fuel Injector Rail Stud 25 N·m 18 lb ft Fuel Injector Sight Shield Bracket Nut 30 N·m 22 lb ft Generator Brace Bracket Bolt 50 N·m 37 lb ft Heated Oxygen Sensor 42 N·m 31 lb ft ICM Bolt (VIN 1) 30 N·m 22 lb ft ICM Nut 50 N·m 37 lb ft ICM Stud (VIN K) 6 N·m 53 lb in ICM Wiring Harness Bolt 2 N·m 18 lb in Idler Pulley Bolt 50 N·m 37 lb ft Idler Pulley Bracket Bolt 30 N·m 22 lb ft Lower Intake Manifold Bolt 15 N·m 11 lb ft MAP Sensor Bolt (VIN 1) 3 N·m 27 lb in MAP Sensor Bracket Bolt (VIN 1) 30 N·m 22 lb ft Oil Cooler Adapter Connector 50 N·m 37 lb ft Oil Filter 30 N·m 22 lb ft Oil Filter Adapter Bolt 15 + 50° N·m 11 + 50° lb ft Oil Level Indicator Switch 20 N·m 15 lb ft Oil Level Indicator Tube Nut 19 N·m 14 lb ft Oil Pan Bolt 14 N·m 125 lb in Oil Pan Drain Plug 30 N·m 22 lb ft Oil Pump Cover Screw 11 N·m 98 lb in Oil Pump Screen Bolt 15 N·m 11 lb ft Power Brake Booster Heat Shield Nut 20 N·m 15 lb ft Spark Plug 27 N·m 20 lb ft Starter Motor Heat Shield Bolt 30 N·m 22 lb ft Supercharger Bolt/Stud (VIN 1) 23 N·m 17 lb ft Supercharger Bypass Valve and Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve Harness Bolt (VIN 1) 10 N·m 89 lb in Supercharger Bypass Valve Nut (VIN 1) 8 N·m 71 lb in Throttle Body Nut 10 N·m 89 lb in Throttle Body Support Bolt (VIN K) 10 N·m 89 lb in Timing Chain Dampener Bolt 22 N·m 16 lb ft Upper Intake Manifold Bolt (VIN K) 10 N·m 89 lb in Valve Lifter Guide Retainer Bolt 30 N·m 22 lb ft Valve Rocker Arm Bolt 15 + 90° N·m 11 + 90° lb ft Valve Rocker Arm Cover Bolt 10 N·m 89 lb in Water Outlet Bolt 27 N·m 20 lb ft Water Pump Bolt 15 + 80° N·m 11 + 80° lb ft Water Pump Pulley Bolt 13 N·m 116 lb in Wiring Harness Shield Bolt/Nut 10 N·m 89 lb in
  8. In an effort to preserve information about these cars and tuning, I figure I'd write this up. This information was figured out by the members of GrandPrixForums, but the thread that it's in is very long and full of off-topic posting. Overview: Owners may wish to delete the rear oxygen sensor in order to install a wideband in the factory bung location. In 2001+ cars, this causes a new cat diagnostic to run repeatedly, skewing fuel trims and negatively impacting fuel economy. Cause: Beginning in MY 2001 (and possibly some prior MY California emissions cars), GM added a cat diagnostic test in order to determine the efficiency and operation of both the catalyst and rear O2 sensor. This test works by richening the fuel trims to an extreme degree in order to saturate the catalyst, then waiting for the O2 to respond appropriately. It will run this test over and over during cruise until it is satisfied. Without a rear O2, the test never passes and fuel economy suffers. LTFT readings will also skew rich (high double digit LTFTs), causing tuning difficulties. O2 Simulators do not correct the issue because the PCM is expecting a specific response from the amount of fuel being dumped. Fix: Utilizing Tiny Tuner, this diagnostic can be disabled. As of April 2017, HPTuners still does not offer this ability. By and large, this patch is available for most 2011-2014 L36, L67, L32, L82, and LA1 OSIDs, but some may be missing. To disable the test, open your .bin in Tiny Tuner and navigate to the following: Diagnostics > Main > CAT Diagnostic Enable Coolant Temp Stock is 20. Change to 285 (positive, not negative like the screenshot). Navigate to Diagnostics > Main > CAT Diagnostic Tests per Trip Stock is 18. Change to 0. This should disable the O2 diagnostic test going forward. Errata: The original version of this document (and the screenshots) suggest changing the enable temp to -285. This value is too low and would allow the diagnostic to run anyway. The diagnostic would run every time the car is driven until interrupted. After interrupted, the test would be suspended. Setting it to a high value that the car would never see prevents it from running at all.
  9. The passenger side dash speaker in the Grand Prix (91, 2dr SE 3.1L) has built a dang house on the fritz. Sounds like someone's making digital popcorn in it whenever I leave the radio on for more than a couple minutes. I'd like to replace both the dash speakers (I'm not a car audio junkie, I'd be fine with some $40 ones from Walmart or something). Does anyone here have any experience with removing and replacing them? I didn't want to jump into it blind. If it turns out I would need to remove any big parts of the dash or something I'd pay someone to do it. Thanks guys.
  10. Sup forum, haven't been on here in years; last time I was I had a 2000 SSEi, which I sold over a year ago w/ 195k on it still running and driving. Anyhow for the last 2 years and 20,000 some odd miles I've had a 04 GP GT2, which has been a very decent ride for what I paid for it. Anyway, I got a message on the DIC after about 5 minutes of driving home from work the other day that said "CHECK GAS CAP" I just replaced the gas cap yesterday, and the message keeps coming back; mind you I dont have any check engine lights/noticeable performance decrease, just this message on the DIC. I have done a lil homework and it might be pointing toward the evap purge canister or whatnot behind the drivers rear wheelwell? Any thoughts?
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