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Will not start/top questions


Godsson314
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Hello! My 95 cutlass went to a mechanic to replace the spark plugs, wires, gasket and fuel filter. At some point the battery died and they took it out to charge, now it will not start. I gave them a security reset incase the security system won't let it start. 

The security light was on solidly when I drove it over there. 

 

Any suggestions?

 

Also, regarding convertible tops, many places don't seem to want to help, except a few that will if I purchase the materials. I have heard mixed reviews on topsonline and convertible top guys. Anyone have first hand experience?

 

Thabk you in advance! 

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The 1st thing that comes to mind on this is.......

if this occurred while the car was/is (still) in their care why is it that they can't solve the issue on their own?

If the car is equipped with light sentry then they should have applied the park brake to keep the lights off while it was/is in their shop, that way the battery wouldn't have been drained.

It's not necessary to remove the battery from the car to recharge it, if one wants to protect the PCM one just pulls the PCM fuse, it should be a 15a fuse, like most 1st gen W's it's in the glove box.

What you should have is Passkey II, there is a relearn cycle that has to be performed on the Vats module to let you restart the engine.

 

 

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I took my car to a dedicated top shop once and they only ordered the material and left the car outside in the rain for a month. Nothing against the quality of work as I think the guy was just overwhelmed. According to him there really isnt anything special about them as far as design goes and IIRC it was quoted to be about $2k for him to order a StayFast canvas top kit and install it, cables and headliner and service the pump. I ended up just picking the car up and he gave me the top kit for the down payment. Ive yet to install it myself and sort of regret getting impatient back then but I didnt want the interior to get ruined. 

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On 10/14/2023 at 1:18 PM, rich_e777 said:

I took my car to a dedicated top shop once and they only ordered the material and left the car outside in the rain for a month. Nothing against the quality of work as I think the guy was just overwhelmed. According to him there really isnt anything special about them as far as design goes and IIRC it was quoted to be about $2k for him to order a StayFast canvas top kit and install it, cables and headliner and service the pump. I ended up just picking the car up and he gave me the top kit for the down payment. Ive yet to install it myself and sort of regret getting impatient back then but I didnt want the interior to get ruined. 

I completely understand! The fear of the interior getting damaged is a chief concern of mine, and I always think of this. 

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On 10/13/2023 at 7:14 PM, 55trucker said:

The 1st thing that comes to mind on this is.......

if this occurred while the car was/is (still) in their care why is it that they can't solve the issue on their own?

If the car is equipped with light sentry then they should have applied the park brake to keep the lights off while it was/is in their shop, that way the battery wouldn't have been drained.

It's not necessary to remove the battery from the car to recharge it, if one wants to protect the PCM one just pulls the PCM fuse, it should be a 15a fuse, like most 1st gen W's it's in the glove box.

What you should have is Passkey II, there is a relearn cycle that has to be performed on the Vats module to let you restart the engine.

 

 

What comes to your mind is heavily on my mind. I am concerned they do not know as much as they let on initially. Is the relearn cycle something that is done with the key and a step by step process or is it a programming/reader that is required. I am just thinking now to take it to a GM dealer to get it worked out.... 

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To me it sounds like the wiring in the column is broken

get a multimeter, measure the chip on the key, put the key in the ignition and find the wire coming down from the column to its connector and check there

I know on my last VATS car I ended up getting a resistor of the same value and just bypassed the thing, that car was its own theft deterrent. 

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6 hours ago, White93z34 said:

To me it sounds like the wiring in the column is broken

get a multimeter, measure the chip on the key, put the key in the ignition and find the wire coming down from the column to its connector and check there

I know on my last VATS car I ended up getting a resistor of the same value and just bypassed the thing, that car was its own theft deterrent. 

Yes, unfortunately was thinking the same last night, after I read an article on here. I ordered a bypass, so we shall see as the resistors take a week to come. Thabk you for the guidance! 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just in case someone is following this thread and needs the resolution...

 

The vats bypass did not work. I ended up having the vehicle towed from the mechanic to another shop. 

I had the starter replaced and the spark plugs which the gentleman (wont utilize mechanic anymore) were crossed. 

Vehicle runs smoothly now. 

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