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Huh. I’m not entirely sure what that blue wire could be.  Are any of your alternator harness wires blue?  Possibly it is the knock sensor wire.  The knock sensor wire is a a single lead and is dark blue.  I guess you could go to the sensor and trace it back to see if it goes to the ecm. If it’s broke on the harness end that’s likely it.  You’ll pull a code if it isn’t connected and ecm won’t be able to adjust timing to limit knock.

Those 4 black wires and the other 2 with the ring terminals are certainly grounds.  I just took a look at my engine to confirm.  The 4 I have are grounded to the transmission on the forward bolt of the engine/trans bolt, just below the trans modulator and secured with a nut.  The other two are connected in the same way but to the bolt just above the trans modulator.  In the top picture you posted the lead your holding is actually pointed right at the bolt I have mine connected to that doesn’t have the nut on it.  Looks like you need to tighten up the trans to engine bolts first?  Clean em up and nut em down.

Edited by GTP091
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3 hours ago, 95cutlassv3rt said:

So, the altenator harness does have the four wires going into it, there is a weird 5th wire that just looks broken and is dark blue. That 5th wire does not seem to go to anythiong, I wish I had noticed it before I got the engine in, tracing it back is going to be a huge pain in the drain with the engine installed.

Also, I have this cluster of 20ish guage wires that look like they are supposed to be grounded on the transmission. There are also two other wires on the harness that are 6 or 8 guage in the same area with bolt anchors that could be power or ground, hard telling really. I know the wires coming off the battery are for the fuse box, starter and also there is the ground side, I am thinking the two other large wires on the harness are for the starter from the key maybe.

I had taken pictures of all this mess, but my phone broke and it did not back up to the cloud. Luckily the powers of ADHD and photographic memory has served me well in putting bolts where they go and whatnot.

possibleground.jpg

possible grounds_LI.jpg

My best help on the unplugged harnesses:

Trans harness is the large one in the pic with the red boot, the other harness with the light blue boot coming off of it is the AC pressure sensor.

the harness laying on top of the transmission with the green boot looks to be the cruise control harness. The lone red wire with the grey harness is the fuel pump test wire. The three wire harness with the purple boot must be for the MAF sensor. I have a two wire IntakeAirTemp sensor instead being I have OBD1 with a MAP instead of the MAF. Someone else will need to confirm for you. Or you can just look at your MAF.

the two harnesses that are way down close to the rad in the lower picture look to be for the IgnitionControlModule. One is switched 12volt and ground, and the other should be a 5wire all from the ecm. The ICM will have three harnesses attached to it. The other not pictured should be the crank position sensor.

Edited by GTP091
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95cutlassv3rt

Thank you for all of the help. I am going to work on the cutlass today and will hopefully have it running by the end of the day. More pictures and hopefully startup and driving videos to come!!! 

Stay tuned:)

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4 hours ago, 95cutlassv3rt said:

The car runs, unfortunately, I have no idea if the new trans works. I could not get it to shift from park??? Any suggestions?

Make sure the shift cables are properly hooked up and that the shift interlock is working.  That's all I have, sorry.

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9 hours ago, 95cutlassv3rt said:

The car runs, unfortunately, I have no idea if the new trans works. I could not get it to shift from park??? Any suggestions?

Check to make sure the vac line is connected to the trans modulator.  And the main harness is connected. Otherwise I have no idea 

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21 hours ago, 95cutlassv3rt said:

The car runs, unfortunately, I have no idea if the new trans works. I could not get it to shift from park??? Any suggestions?

On the neutral safety switch the part that engages the transmission is made of plastic, if this part breaks then the motion from the shift lever isnt transmitted to the transmission via the shift cable. Have someone shift from inside the car while you watch the switch, take the airbox out to see better as it is underneath the master cylinder and brake booster. Check to make sure that the switch is actually engaging the transmission when shifted from Park. 

 

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95cutlassv3rt

Is there any way to transfer this to the convertible builds section? I installed the 3d printed part but I would like to combine everything into one thread.

Anyhow, I had an issue and cracked the original one when tightening, long story short, I drove myself nuts searching the web for the water pump inlet, ended up using CAD and 3d printing one with the help of my friend Artie, he is brilliant. Just waiting for the permatex to dry.

Fingers crossed!!!

Installwat.jpg

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95cutlassv3rt

So far so good, it was way easier to bleed the system then when the oem piece was in place, we are going on a trip this weekend and there is a heatwave in Maine. If the part survives we should have put about 500 miles on it by Sunday. I will be back with an update. Either the part thrives or we re-engineer and reprint the central chamber which I think is a choke-point but so far so good.

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95cutlassv3rt

Thanks to jiggity76 for letting me know that my car is more than likely 1 of the 338 that were made like that, but if the to came from the factory black and was changed at any point I may have 1 of 20 that were produced, I am going to decode the VIN at some point and find out for certain what car I have. 

After this heatwave, I think gutting the rest of the AC was a bad idea, I am going to begin looking for a doner/parts car or kit to upgrade and reinstall the AC, maybe with something newer. I did floor it last night on the back road because I wanted to see what the power felt like, it pulls hard and when you think its going to stop pullinjg around 70 like most vehicles I have owned, with the exception of a saab 9000 turbo I had, this thing just keeps pulling, I let off at 90 and she still had more to show me.

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2 hours ago, 95cutlassv3rt said:

Thanks to jiggity76 for letting me know that my car is more than likely 1 of the 338 that were made like that, but if the to came from the factory black and was changed at any point I may have 1 of 20 that were produced, I am going to decode the VIN at some point and find out for certain what car I have. 

After this heatwave, I think gutting the rest of the AC was a bad idea, I am going to begin looking for a doner/parts car or kit to upgrade and reinstall the AC, maybe with something newer. I did floor it last night on the back road because I wanted to see what the power felt like, it pulls hard and when you think its going to stop pullinjg around 70 like most vehicles I have owned, with the exception of a saab 9000 turbo I had, this thing just keeps pulling, I let off at 90 and she still had more to show me.

I did pull a housing from that junkyard car.  If you still want it...if the one you made ends up not working out.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have to say, I have tried everything, my 3d printed parts get soft and deform if the car gets over 200 degrees ferenheit, I need an inlet, I can't find one, I have never felt defeated, and I honestly want to set this car on fire and post the video. It is such a gorgeous example of a 95 cutlass supreme, and the fact that I cannot get a stupid piece of pig metal to fix my cooling system is driving me insane.

If someone has a 2 port water pump inlet, I'll give you 50 bucks to send it my way.

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3 hours ago, 95cutlassv3rt said:

I have to say, I have tried everything, my 3d printed parts get soft and deform if the car gets over 200 degrees ferenheit, I need an inlet, I can't find one, I have never felt defeated, and I honestly want to set this car on fire and post the video. It is such a gorgeous example of a 95 cutlass supreme, and the fact that I cannot get a stupid piece of pig metal to fix my cooling system is driving me insane.

If someone has a 2 port water pump inlet, I'll give you 50 bucks to send it my way.

PM sent.  Don't worry, I'm to the rescue.

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30 minutes ago, 95cutlassv3rt said:

Thanks Jiggity, I got it in the mail with bolts and clamps, thank you thank you thank you!!!!

You're very welcome.  Sorry it took so long and I sort of forgot about ya.  Glad it worked out.

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