Mstg007 Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 With the post below; I finally had a chance to buy 2 new outer tie rods. http://www.w-body.com/topic/54296-clunk-turning-into-driveway/ Question I have is; that I have never tried to change these. I believe that they are still the originals. Could I possibly get some directions (step by step) on how to change / replace them with the new ones? I did hear once I have then changed to take it to get an alignment done. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 These are really easy to change out. Mark how far the old tire ride is threaded into the adjusting rod. There is a nut and bolt on that rod, you will need to losen both of those. Will require two wrench, I forget the size off the top of my head. I am thinking it is an 18MM. Then remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the knuckle. Then remove the castle nut. Then pound out the old tie rod. It's really simple. I don't recall the castle nut either, but it maybe a 16MM. Hope that helps. If you put the new one on in the same spot you shouldn't need an alignment, but it wouldn't hurt to take your car in some place that has free alignment checks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 if you want to do some measuring, you can get it really close with two people and a tape measure(though I've done it on my own a few times).... measure the distance between two sections of tread as high up the tire as you can on both sides(probably going to be about 5" off of the ground), do it a few times for redundancy, write the values down(something like 53 1/8" front, 53 3/16" rear as an example), replace one tie rod end and adjust until you get back to the original numbers, then replace the other side and adjust it back to the original numbers. if you can dial it in to within 1/16", then the maximum error you would see is about .175* on each side if the height you measure the front and rear at is about 20.5" from front to rear(which at about 5" off of the ground is about where you would be measuring). GM's spec is a total of .2* combined is allowed, you're looking at a maximum of .35* combined with 1/16" accuracy. if you only change one item at a time between adjustments, you should be able to keep the existing alignment specs within reason. if your current tie rod ends are trashed, that may not be enough though and you'll end up needing to have a shop do it anyways. if nothing else, it will be enough to safely drive to an alignment shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Very easy to do, just like Nate has said but instead of pounding out the tie rods why not jack up the entire strut assembly to relieve the tension and just lift the tie rod right out of the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 That works too, but a couple whacks with a hammer and mine popped right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Mine came out easily with a hammer, and I got AC ones for $9 ea on Rockauto. rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 The time I went for my larger front sway bar I bent a tie rod separator and gave up on the hammer idea trying to get one out. Ended up hacksawing through the tierod and the end just lifted out once I cut through it. I just stood there like WTF? Did this shit just really fall the hell out after all that? You cannot beat AC delco ends for $9 Imp558 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 That's funny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2001goldGTP Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I just did this over the weekend. If you are somewhere where rust is apart of life use a little penetrating fluid. Mark the jam nut, the one that is against the tie rod. that way you can put it back where it was. undo the crown nut that holds the tie rod to the knuckle. Leave the crown nut even with the stud of the tie rod so not to distort it with the hammer and so it doesn't go flying. Smack the crown nut with a hammer until the tie rod taper breaks free. remove crown nut and tie rod from knuckle. At this time count how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod. mine where 16 full rations on one side and 16 1/4 rotations on the other. That is how many rotations you should use to install the new ones. then pop the tie rod into the knuckle. tighten jam nut to the tie rod. if the jam nut isnt in the same spot as the original tie rod get an alignment asap you wheels will will be out of alignment even if it doesn't drive any differently. Install crown nut to torque spec and then what ever slight rotation is needed to insert the cotter pin. never back the crown nut off to get the cotter pin in. Install cotter pin and bend the ends around the crown nut and trim cotter pin if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUMINATOR Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Hope you used anti-size on the treads and ran the jam nut back and forth to clean up the treads! Haha just a little bit easier on the alignment guy, been there done that! I hated doing alignments ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mstg007 Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Awesome information guys thank you. Now should I do anything about the rust? Do I need it to soak overnight with liquid plumber or wd40? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Those bolts should come off, but hitting it Wd 40 the night before would be smart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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