94cuttydrop Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Hello everyone, I have lurked this site since 2002, when I was the owner of a 1995 CS coupe. I sold the car back in 08, and unfortunately I didn't stay active, and don't even remember my log in information. Anyway, my Aurora just didn't quite fill the hole that selling the cutty left in me, and I have recently become the new owner of a 1994 CS convertible. I'll be honest, it's not in the best of shape. According to my google skills/VIN verification/title history....this is what I've put together so far. Bought new in '95 in NJ, owned by this person til around '06. Transferred ownership at this point with 73,6XX miles. Was registered in MA in '08 73,8XX miles. Traded in to Land Rover dealership in CT in '11 with 75,XXX miles. Sold to a wholesaler at auction shortly thereafter, and 2 years later, I am the proud owner. Just about 76k miles, and I paid less than $1,000.....great, right??? Here's the main issue. Someone put vertical doors on this thing and RUINED it. They are not even CLOSE to fitting properly. The driver's door interior panel is barely even on the door, on account of the owner trying to close it from the inside. I haven't even figured out how to do so yet, the doors are so out of alignment, that I can't even close them from the inside. Other than these silly doors, the car is in great shape. Not one spot of rust, and it runs pretty well, other then needing a tune up from sitting for most of the last 6 years. I have used the search function to the best of my ability, and am having trouble finding what I am looking for. I need some help trouble shooting the top. The switch is completely non-responsive, nothing happens when I hit the button, up or down. In addition to that, the "auto down" function doesn't work for ANY of the windows. This includes the driver's door alone, and also the function that lowers all the windows at once. My research tells me that there is a "all window automatic down module" or AWAD located somewhere....and I can't seem to find where this is?????I could only track down a manual for a 95, and some info carried over, but not much. In terms of trouble shooting the top problems, this is what I have so far. Ignition ON, no power to ANY wires leading to the motor. I've got power across the fuse under dash for the power windows (I've been told that this is fuse for the top). Pulled center console apart...no power at the switch...guess my problem is somewhere between the switch and the fuse box/control center under the dash? PS-the guy I bought it from had forced the top down manually, and I see a small amount of seepage of fluid in the trunk. I appreciate any information that anyone can provide. I am very eager to get this vehicle back into pristine condition and on the road. Oldsmobiles are my joy, and I have actually been strongly considering contacting the previous owner that had it registered, to see if they made the modifications, and if they have any info about the vehicle. Oh, one other thing, it's got an RPO code for remote entry (AU0), and I have no remote for it. Is there any way to get a replacement??? Don't worry, there will be pics at some point!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_mezz Posted May 30, 2013 Report Share Posted May 30, 2013 Welcome (back) to the site, sounds like you've got some good summertime projects ahead of you! Nothing like dropping the top and going for a spin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KarenL2888 Posted May 31, 2013 Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 You can buy a used remote online. I got mine at Remotes Unlimited but there are plenty of choices of vendors. Good luck with your car! And welcome back. Karen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94cuttydrop Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 You can buy a used remote online. I got mine at Remotes Unlimited but there are plenty of choices of vendors. Good luck with your car! And welcome back. Karen Thanks for the info. How do I go about programming the remote to work though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94cuttydrop Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 Actually, I found the info I was looking or in terms of the keyless entry. I found the RKE module in the trunk, grounded the wire, and I heard the doors lock and unlock along with the trunk popping. Now full steam ahead with ordering remotes! Thanks for the info. Next step, do any other GM vehicles use the same window motor that is used in the rear quarter windows? I can't seem to find one anywhere when looking for CS drop top... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 The rear window motors are corporate motors I believe. I saw somewhere on this forum that a Yukon window motor will fit, but don't quote me on this. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/26612-Convertible-Interchange-Information Here's a link of anything that interchanges with the vert. So I may be right on the Yukon window thing, but you can also get the window motor from a CS Sedan. They should fit. I can tell you for a fact the window switches are the same for the CS Sedan. PS.. THE WINDOW REGULATOR IS NOT THE SAME AS ANY OTHER CAR. THE REGULATOR IS VERT SPECIFIC. Also, as far as you all windows down, your module should be under the plastic on the passenger's side floor. It's a white box, If I'm not mistaken. The problem will be obtaining a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94cuttydrop Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 I somehow overlooked the window motor information the first time I skimmed through the parts interchangability document. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Looks like it will be quite the job to pop a new motor in that regulator though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94cuttydrop Posted July 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2013 For those of you interested, a brief update on the past month. My electrical issues were all related to a hack job inside the driver door. Previous owner had hastily installed "Vertical doors"....and didn't do a very good job. This installation required extending the length of wires leading from chassis into LH door. In doing this, they had hacked up all the brown wires, which lo and behold were tied into the AWAD and convertible top switch and pump. After straightening out that mess, AWAD functionality has been restored, along with the top operating under its own power. Pics to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 This might be old to you but this discussion fixed mine. Have had to tap one since this posting. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/52234-Window-motor-info-needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted August 1, 2013 Report Share Posted August 1, 2013 Rap vids should b banned NO MORE DONKS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94cuttydrop Posted August 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 This might be old to you but this discussion fixed mine. Have had to tap one since this posting.http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/52234-Window-motor-info-needed Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I ended up doing (not by choice lol). I had the whole interior apart, and noticed that 2 of the bolts holding the window motor were sheared off. I figured if I had to remove the regulator to replace these bolts, I might as well get a new motor in there, even though tapping on it got it to work. Ended up ordering a driver side rear motor for 4 door, based on advice from the interchangability thread. This wasn't correct. It had to be the motor for the OPPOSITE side in the 4 door, the motor was a mirror-image of what I needed. Went and swapped it for the opposite side. Went to put it in, and the gear on the back of the motor that spins was about 1/4 inch thicker than the stock one....this meant that once I put it in, it was binding against the regulator. Ended up getting pissed and just putting the old motor back in with new bolts. Fingers crossed that it will hold up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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