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Dying starter? Flat spot(s)?


ancorder
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That was one of the first things we did. With any electrical problem, first thing is to check & clean all the connections. Since it didn't help, I assume that wasn't the problem. Though who knows? Maybe the new cable, with its new connectors, simply made better contact.

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Did you pop the bolt out of the battery terminal and clean inside there? I usually have to clean that part out with a Dremel because it gets very crusty with battery acid crust. That's one of the drawbacks of the side terminal battery post.

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UPDATE: Replaced the starter, didn't help. Absolute pain in the rear to get it replaced (ridiculous amount of time for two bolts and a couple nuts).

 

Turn key, tries to crank once, dies. Tried it with the door open and while I held it in "start" the door chime slowed and faded away like the battery was dying. Weird. Put the multimeter on the starter and it read 11.8 volts while in the "run" position, but when I turned the key to "start" it cratered to 0.69 volts. Once I let off the key it went back to reading 11.8.

 

Not sure what's going on. All the electrical connections & wiring looked good, but they're 20 years old. Should I replace all the wiring?

 

Is it possible that the engine is locked up and the starter simply isn't capable of turning the flywheel? Should I try putting a wrench on the crankshaft pulley and seeing if I can rotate it?

 

I'm a bit buggered by this now.

 

 

I have had to replace all the wiring on all w-bodies I ever owned. I think that about any car would need them replaced after 20 years regardless of make though. up in the northwest the skies are always dark clouds and the accessory power demand is higher. cars use more 12v power consistently up here and people scrap old cars when the battery cables wear out, I see it all the time. good rust free body, corroded as hell battery cables. :lol: the defrost stops working and the cars mold out.

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