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Your recommendations on struts


carkhz316
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Just wondering what you all think I should go with for new struts and mounts on my '92 Z. I have heard many of times of KYB-GR2's. I do only want to really restore factory quality, as my car is not lowered nor do I plan on lowering it. I put GR2's on my pickup and they seem pretty decent for the price. What do you guys think?

 

On a sidenote, I also need to get ball joints, possibly tie rod ends, and CV shafts. (This car has been neglected before I got it and I am only now getting around to putting 'er back to snuff.)

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KYB GR2 / Sensatracks are both OEM replacements I would go with whichever is cheaper.

 

Stay away from Gabrieals / Monroe Gasmatics, cheap junk

 

most people here will tell you that GR2s are better.

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GR2's. Not sure if the Sensatracs have lifetime warranties, but the GR2's do. I actually replaced a set on my sister in law's 96 Regal this week. FE1 suspension, but it sure does feel nice now.

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I have GR2s on my rear. They seem good enough. Couldn't really say whether its an improvement over stock or the same because both rear struts were blown when I bought the car.

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I don't have my original RPO sticker for my car, so I don't know if I have FE1 or 3. How do I tell? On Rockauto, they list "standard or Heavy Duty suspension" as the the same part number for strut.

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I don't have my original RPO sticker for my car, so I don't know if I have FE1 or 3. How do I tell? On Rockauto, they list "standard or Heavy Duty suspension" as the the same part number for strut.

 

I think what GOT2B GM was intending to say is that the Sensatrac is a softer shock than the GR2. The GR2 is more firm, which IMO is a good thing. I would just go with the GR2 anyway. Its mean to be an OEM replacement strut. It feels perfect on my sister in law's 96 Regal, which has very tall suspension.

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I don't have my original RPO sticker for my car, so I don't know if I have FE1 or 3. How do I tell? On Rockauto, they list "standard or Heavy Duty suspension" as the the same part number for strut.

 

Go to www.compnine.com and on the left side of the screen is an option for the VIN decoder... Enter your VIN, and it will come up with a list of all the RPO codes for your car and what they mean..

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^Sweet. Thanks man. I think I'm gonna go with the GR2s since they seem to have a lot of praise on here and they seem good since I've put 'em on my truck. Thanks guys!!! :high5: :high5: :high5:

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^Sweet. Thanks man. I think I'm gonna go with the GR2s since they seem to have a lot of praise on here and they seem good since I've put 'em on my truck. Thanks guys!!! :high5: :high5: :high5:

 

Please do come back and let us know what your impressions were.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Installed the rears today, along with new mounts. The struts weren't shot by any means, nor were the mounts, but the struts didn't have any gas charge left, and they did feel kinda weak. Installing the fronts tomorrow hopefully. Just gonna buy the strut tool tomorrow from one of the local parts stores. But yeah, impressions:

 

Much better overall. Smooth, confident ride quality. I still have some little rattle in the rear, but whatever.

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Attempted to do the fronts today. What a joke. I got the tool and went to work. Got done to the cap that holds the cartridge in. Turned a bit and snap; there went the notched collar that was very crappily spot welded to the threaded portion by whatever factory made the strut. After lifting the car up in another attempt to free the circular collar with a vice grips, that hasn't worked either. I've heated it as well (despite warnings of heating the strut tube, whatever, fuck it, I was too upset at this point.) Took a cut-off wheel in an attempt to index it like a nut so I could have more controlled grip via large wrench. No avail, it just rounds the damn thing over. Looks like I'm just going to have to replace the whole damn rusty piece of shit strut assembly afterall. These cartridges were supposed to be easy, except that this car has lived the last 16 of it's 18 years as a neglect, salt caked, rusted MN car.

 

I haven't even touched the other side.:roll:

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Damn. Sucks to hear that man. Hope the other side isn't as much of a bitch. Didn't you get a replacement notched collar with your struts? Did you coat that thing with antisieze before putting it back in?

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Damn. Sucks to hear that man. Hope the other side isn't as much of a bitch. Didn't you get a replacement notched collar with your struts? Did you coat that thing with antisieze before putting it back in?

Ordered the KYB: GR2/ Excells. No collar with either of 'em. Haven't even got anything apart yet. Got fed up with it, but also had to go somewhere a bit ago, so I just slapped it back together. I'm at the shop at the moment, which is where I was trying to work on it. Not sure what I'm going to decide to do. Probably have to get a new strut assembly since the rusted on threaded collar thing is stuck and mangled all to heck.

 

i got mine off with a homemade pin spanner and a hammer

It's not that the tool failed to do it's job, it was tougher than the rusty thread cap/ collar thing. That broke off the top, leaving the round cap still attached.

Edited by carkhz316
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I had Farm and Fleet install my fronts a few years ago. They stripped out the drivers side and had to get a replacement assembly at a junkyard at their expense. Better them than me! Payback was they tore the boot on my newer tie rod end in the process. If you replace the assembly, would be a good time to replace the balljoint and outer tie rods

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All front struts should come with new hardware. But I can say this, Ill NEVER put sensatracs in my car. I went though 5 of them in the front in a matter of 3 months. Probably due to the fact that it lowered though...

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To note, the newest KYB rear mounts I bought a month ago for my sister in law's regal are different from when I bought them a couple years back. They now come with an accordian style boot that you ziptie to the strut. Actually a very nice design. I'll get a picture if someone is interested.

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