oldscsc Posted September 13, 2009 Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 Thinking of jumping on the bandwagon and using the Nightshade to do my tails, and maybe corner markers. I have a few questions. Is it as simple as 1) Clean with rubbing alcohol 2) Put on a couple coats 3) Sand off excess (if there is any) 4) What type of clear coat should I use? Also, to take the tails off, is there just a couple screws you can access by opening the trunk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted September 13, 2009 Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 Also, to take the tails off, is there just a couple screws you can access by opening the trunk? We would of hoped that you would of at least have known how to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted September 13, 2009 Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 the key to nightshades is using very very thin coats........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldscsc Posted September 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2009 Also, to take the tails off, is there just a couple screws you can access by opening the trunk? We would of hoped that you would of at least have known how to do this. Sorry for asking before I went out there..I guess? the key to nightshades is using very very thin coats........ Thanks for the advice Jeremy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Octavarium454 Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Hey guys I was told that I should post in here after recently posting my Niteshade job on my 95 GTP. Materials Needed: - 1-2 cans of Niteshade (depends on how dark you want it) - Scotch Brite Pad - 1 can of GOOD clearcoat, I used Duplicolor clear in a can from Advance, but DO NOT go cheap! - 1500-2000 grit sandpaper - A buffing compound THE STEPS: 1. Remove your taillights from your car 2. Take a microfiber cloth and clean off your taillights 3. Use the Scotch Brite pad and scuff up your taillights, the reason for this is the Niteshade likes to run as it is very thin, so this will give it some surface area to grip to. 4. Apply your first coat. MAKE THE COATS VERY THIN AND KEEP THEM EVEN! You will darken them gradually, trying to go black all at once will look like crap. 5. Keep applying thin coats every 10 minutes until desired darkness is reached, I used 4 coats of Niteshade to achieve my level of darkness, but this is very light compared to what many want, so just keep applying until your happy. 6. After allowing your final coat of Niteshade to dry for about 4 hours, sand the taillights with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper. This will dull the shine, but the clearcoat is what will bring it back, so don't freak out. 7. Start applying the clear. Just follow the instructions on the can and you should be fine. Now the reason I said to use the best clear coat you can get your hands on is that cheap clear will actually have some weird reaction with the Niteshade and cause it to cloud up, making your taillights look like complete crap. I experienced this first hand on my test taillight using cheap Wal-Mart clear coat my uncle gave me. 8. I used 5 coats of clear, applying them every 10 minutes, and making each coat just a little thicker. Use as many more as you would like to finally get your shine back in the taillights. The clear will be able to survive the elements much better than plain Niteshade. (I hear Niteshade on its own would only last 2 years without this step, that is why I included this process) 9. Allow the clear to fully dry, then hit it with the 1500-2000 grit sandpaper to smooth it all out 10. Now the buffing stage is purely optional, all this will do is increase the shine and give your taillights a glass appearance. In the pics of my car I did not do this, but I will do this eventually to really have them gleam. Just use your favorite buffing compound and buff until you feel satisfied. 11. Reinstall and Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscar_wilde Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 This post definitely needs to be a sticky. They look really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 the key to nightshades is using very very thin coats........ Couldn't of said it better myself I might do a write up of what I did later, I gotta go get reptile food Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Octavarium454, Thanks for posting those steps here. Maybe someone can make this a sticky. Now you're famous! bOuLeVaRd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Spray paint and clear coats lay thinner and smoother when you submerge the spray can in a bowl of hot water. Allow the spray can to warm up and then spray. The coats will lay smoother and more even. Watch this video: It has a lot of spray painting tips that I have used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 there is a right and wrong way to do something like tinting a set of taillights. using nightshades is the wrong way if you ask me. once I found out how it is done the right way, the nightshades changed from looking alright to me...to looking straight ghetto. sorry, but someone had to say it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldscsc Posted September 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 there is a right and wrong way to do something like tinting a set of taillights. using nightshades is the wrong way if you ask me. once I found out how it is done the right way, the nightshades changed from looking alright to me...to looking straight ghetto. sorry, but someone had to say it. Would you mind sharing your alternative? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 black and clear coat mix sprayed and then buffed, i now think that nightshades look like asshole. Pics in a min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 this is all i seem to have at this point but they are darker than they look, that shot was taken in direct strong sunlight. They are just as shiny as the paint, and look great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 not to be a asshole but the red GP tails in this post look like hell! buddies tails, i stopped at one coat, he did his black, but light output is still great. For the price of covers it's a great deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 not to be a asshole but the red GP tails in this post look like hell! I agree, However, saying Nightshades is ghetto is a matter of opinion. If done right and not just sprayed and put back on the car like the above pic, they look good. Mine are... ok.... Nice from far, but far from nice I did several (its been a few years, I think like 5 or 6) THIN coats, then a LIGHT wet sanded in between coats. It does the trick for now, the average person thinks they look good, but when/if I do it again, they will be done with the black/clear method in a body shop. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 yours look quite nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Octavarium454 Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 If Niteshade is done right it does not look bad at all. One can easily screw up the clear coat/black paint mix if they don't know what they are doing as easily as someone with a can of Niteshade can screw something up. The Niteshade method is more easily accessible to those who do not know a good body shop or how to mix and spray paint using a spayer. Why I believe many go with the clear coat/black mix and say it looks better (which like GTP Munky, I too plan on doing at some point. Maybe when I get a motor and trans in my car, ) is due to the fact that the Niteshade, when viewed really close, will have a speckled effect. Now this effect does go away after more coats and adding clear coat but it is still there and really can't be removed. Stand a foot or more back and you can't really notice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 niteshades look good but I am not spraying anything enamel based on my car and expect it to look good permanently. dump some gasoline on it and it will run and melt right off. you might be able to strip it off without harming the plastic and do it with urethane based automotive finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 Screw that, not even gonna bother stripping it. When the time comes I will simply go to the wreckers and get 2 more tail light lenses. (without the cross hatching) That "speckled" effect you are getting is called fish eyes. Its cause by contamination on the surface and applying the paint too thick. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 the plastic is pretty tough by itself. I did mine way too dark with urethane and had to wipe it off with those blue shop towels and wash it with reducer. it did not harm the plastic one bit. then resprayed it too dark again. not as dark but too dark for me. but that niteshade might just wipe right off with some reducer or bubble right off with some orange base stripper without harming or etching the plastic. part of the prep involves scuffing the lens anyway with a scotch pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Octavarium454 Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Hey Munky what cars came without the cross hatching? Every Grand Prix I have seen, be it a 4 door or 2, has that cross hatching. I personally don't mind it but I didn't know GM made cars without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 88 and 89 GPs I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 I'm curious as to how Nightshade would look on my Cutlass...I have the tail lights that rise up to meet the tiny spoiler on the trunklid...anyone have a pic, or seen what that would look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supertrick_05 Posted September 26, 2009 Report Share Posted September 26, 2009 If someone is wanting a good spray can clearcoat, use UPOL Clear #1. The stuff is amazing! I used Niteshades on the tails of my Neon and used the UPOL Clear #1 and came out beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZB1992 Posted December 29, 2009 Report Share Posted December 29, 2009 sorry to start back an older thread, but is the nightshade in some aerosal can?? where is it available? I looked on advaced auto's website and couldn't find anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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