W30post Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Anyone ordered from them. They are $26 lower than Autozone near me and shipping is only $8.00. You think they will play the switch-aroo on this part and send me something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Anyone ordered from them. They are $26 lower than Autozone near me and shipping is only $8.00. You think they will play the switch-aroo on this part and send me something else? I ordered one from them and I've had it on my Regal for 10k miles so far. I would think you'd be fine getting one. Timken is widely known as a good brand. I doubt they'd send you a non-timken wheel hub. You could rightfully bitch VERY loud for something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 I like rockauto myself got my front rotors from for about $10 cheaper including shipping then any of the local stores sold them for. I also bought some timken axle seals, came to me in timken packaging and work great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W30post Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 So, one buys the bearing, should the nut be replaced also? I see almost everyone has the nut listed in thier replacement parts. And was the final torque 150/185/250 lb/ft, which one. I don't think I have a torque wrench thata goes to 250 anyway. Hub puller, rent a tool from a local part house since a BFH is a bad idea on a CV joint, what else needed to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 So, one buys the bearing, should the nut be replaced also? I see almost everyone has the nut listed in thier replacement parts. And was the final torque 150/185/250 lb/ft, which one. I don't think I have a torque wrench thata goes to 250 anyway. Hub puller, rent a tool from a local part house since a BFH is a bad idea on a CV joint, what else needed to replace? I didn't replace the nut, and I had 193k on my car when I replaced mine It looked perfectly fine. I wouldn't use a torque wrench. Just a good breaker bar. I tried to use a hub puller and broke it, then returned it. I got really mad and just hammered in at the axle with a regular nailing hammer. Not hard to where you'd break something, but hard enough to start loosening it. Since my puller was broken, I tapped the axle out gently once it broke free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 So, one buys the bearing, should the nut be replaced also? I see almost everyone has the nut listed in thier replacement parts. And was the final torque 150/185/250 lb/ft, which one. I don't think I have a torque wrench thata goes to 250 anyway. Hub puller, rent a tool from a local part house since a BFH is a bad idea on a CV joint, what else needed to replace? http://www.gtsdurango.net/w/torqspec.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W30post Posted July 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 http://www.gtsdurango.net/w/torqspec.html Spec was from a 92 Cutlass manual, think it is still the same for a 04 Monte? I know most of that stuff didn't change over the years but just asking... Will be doing this tomorrow. Hope it all works out well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted July 5, 2009 Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 whoops, didn't realize it was a third gen. uh, I wouldn't necessarily assume it's the same, because I know the hubs are different for sure. but it might not be that far off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W30post Posted July 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 The nut size is different also. Measures 1.295 inch, pretty much a 33 mm. I borrowed the 35 mm socket first on the assumption that they would be the same. I know break-away force is a little higher but I can check it with my old torque wrench with the needle indicator to see where it backs off. Heading to the store for a hub puller anyway. Just pick up one while I'm out. Just thought I would add this bit that the 04 has 33 mm nut for anyone that is reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W30post Posted July 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 According to this article, GM is still changing its mind about the torque. http://www.autopartsdirecttoyou.info/?p=12 I guess I will make a trip to the dealer in the morning and see what a new set of bolts and nuts cost. Thread is getting a little off topic so mods, if I need ot start another thread on this let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted July 5, 2009 Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 Rock auto fucked me on a set ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted July 5, 2009 Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 According to this article, GM is still changing its mind about the torque. http://www.autopartsdirecttoyou.info/?p=12 I guess I will make a trip to the dealer in the morning and see what a new set of bolts and nuts cost. Thread is getting a little off topic so mods, if I need ot start another thread on this let me know. It's refreshing to read an article where they actually know what they're talking about. I still reused mine because I'm too cheap though With our older 4-bolt style hubs, the bolts were something like $4 each from the dealer, maybe higher. That's over $32 for both sides combined.. I wouldn't worry about it getting off-topic. hell, it's your topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W30post Posted July 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 Rock auto fucked me on a set ! Care to elaborate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W30post Posted July 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2009 It's refreshing to read an article where they actually know what they're talking about. I still reused mine because I'm too cheap though With our older 4-bolt style hubs, the bolts were something like $4 each from the dealer, maybe higher. That's over $32 for both sides combined.. You made me go look to see if RockAuto sent a 3 or 4 bolt. They did send the 3 bolt. I got a couple more things in the same order and all came as advertized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 Rock auto fucked me on a set ! Care to elaborate? Sure, I bought a pair for my Intrigue less than 6 months later the speed sensors failed, they have a 1 year warranty, I paid $35 bux to send the bearings back to Dallas, a month later they called me back saying I sent them originals not the TIMKENs I had bought from them. Then they sent digital pictures to a person at TIMKEN in Canton and they told Rock Auto that they were TIMKEN bearings but looked more than one year Old!! The bearings seen 2nd the harshest (in terms of snowfall) winter in Ohio's history and 1,000s of pounds of salt, they were unpainted of course they look old!!~ So I paid $260 dollars for wheel bearings that lasted 6 months and had to go buy ValuePaks at autozone to put my car back on the road. Rock Auto has done nothing to resolve this! Best part is I stripped the proplleor shaft nut when removing the TIMKENs and had to buy a new CV shaft to remedy the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 you're definitely not bitching loud enough. demand to speak to senior management. that resolves any problems real quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 Plus the fact that now Rockauto was proven wrong by Timken. Raise hell!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 so I have to get new axle nuts, and torque them down to 118 ft lbs or my bearings will fail prematurely? good thing I haven't driven the car yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 I torqued mine down until I couldn't torque them anymore, however tight that may be. does it really matter how hard you tighten it as long as you don't undertighten? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 it said that if you used an impact you stretched the threads and need a new nut or something. which is the way we did it because we didn't have a torque wrench that did 180 ft lbs. I figured just as long as we get it tight enough. it says in that article to get a new nut in order to get a proper torque reading on your torque wrench. then make sure its torqued to 118 ft lbs because under or over torquing that nut is the number 1 cause of premature bearing failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 so I have to get new axle nuts, and torque them down to 118 ft lbs or my bearings will fail prematurely? good thing I haven't driven the car yet! I torqued mine down until I couldn't torque them anymore, however tight that may be. does it really matter how hard you tighten it as long as you don't undertighten? *sigh* ok, first off, where are you getting 118 ft-lbs? For the drive-axle to hub nut, for a 1st gen, should be torqued to 184 ft-lbs. secondly, YES!!!! it does really matter how tight it is. It should not be overtightened because you will crush and destroy the bearings. in addition to reading that link, give this page a read over. I did this write-up based on my understanding from my mechanical engineering classes. http://www.gtsdurango.net/w/torqimprt.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 15. Install the axle nut using a 1 5/16″ or 34mm socket. VERY IMPORTANT!!! Do not over torque or under torque this nut. Also it is strongly recommended to never use an impact wrench to tighten this nut. Please tighten with a torque wrench to 118 ft. Lbs.(Other year and model vehicle torques specs may differ, please email us if you would like to know yours. Over or under torqueing this nut is the number one cause of premature bearing failure!!!!!!( It is also recommended to replace this nut as the threads will usually be stretched from being installed and removed. Threads will be stretched if installed with an impact wrench and also the bearing will be squeezed excessively which will cause premature failure. from: http://www.autopartsdirecttoyou.info/?p=12 I was just skimming through that. I missed the part that I can email them to get the spec for my car. what kind of torque wrench do I need to get up to 184 ft lbs? I don't think mine even goes that high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 Well I tightened mine to what felt to be a proper torque with my bare hands and a breaker bar. Keep in mind that the axle was siezed up inside the damn thing and had to be hammered out (of the old one). I guess we'll see how long this lasts. 11,000 miles on that wheel bearing so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 I typically avoid using an impact wrench, unless I'm breaking nuts/bolts loose. Using one to tighten stuff down is just asking for trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W30post Posted July 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 Well this thread shows how well people read and retain. I don't know the specs for the first gen but I will have the specifics on my car tomorrow. New bolts and nuts are ordered to the tune of $47. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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