slick Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 IAT sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 Thats your IAT. Edit: Chris beat me to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 Intake Air Temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 Intake Air Temp. Yes. Thats your IAT. Edit: Chris beat me to it Yep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 Cool thanks... I am starting to think that the problem might be fuel injectors... Im pretty sure they have never been changed and the car has 177k on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Ficho Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Cool thanks... I am starting to think that the problem might be fuel injectors... Im pretty sure they have never been changed and the car has 177k on it. Changing fuel injectors isn't really routine maintenance, they're something that should be good for the life of the car if it is properly maintained. Try testing them before sinking a ton of money into replacing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Whats the best way to test them? (we havent started engine work at school so Im kinda slow on most of this stuff.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Ohm out each injector, post up your results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Alright, I will have to tow it to school for that... Which I think I will do anyway to get the body work done to it... Ill post up results in a couple weeks. Thanks for all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 You don't need the whole car to check your injectors, just remove them all and check each injector individually with your meter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Well for one thing, that battery sounds like it is hurting from cranking the car so much, but I don't think it's bad enough to keep the car from starting. Not that you shouldn't check other things, but since all you did was plugs and wires, I'd suspect thats where you'll find the problem. If you've verified that the plug wires are securely clipped onto the plugs and the coil packs and are in the right order, I'd check to see if you have spark. If you have access to a timing light, clip it over each plug wire one at a time, and have someone crank the car while you check to see if you have spark. If you no spark on any, I'd start looking for a wire that got unplugged while you were working on the car, possibly one going to the ICM (sandwiched underneath the coil packs). If you have spark on some, then double check the wires are all fully seated. If you have spark on all of them, then move on to the injectors. Good luck, and hopefully something here helped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 check each injector individually with your meter. my meter cant leave school. Well for one thing, that battery sounds like it is hurting from cranking the car so much, but I don't think it's bad enough to keep the car from starting. Not that you shouldn't check other things, but since all you did was plugs and wires, I'd suspect thats where you'll find the problem. If you've verified that the plug wires are securely clipped onto the plugs and the coil packs and are in the right order, I'd check to see if you have spark. If you have access to a timing light, clip it over each plug wire one at a time, and have someone crank the car while you check to see if you have spark. If you no spark on any, I'd start looking for a wire that got unplugged while you were working on the car, possibly one going to the ICM (sandwiched underneath the coil packs). If you have spark on some, then double check the wires are all fully seated. If you have spark on all of them, then move on to the injectors. Good luck, and hopefully something here helped! the battery is brand new as of the 6th. I think we might have a timing light at school. I think some of my problem is what someone mentioned before about whatever crap was on my spark plugs, fell down in the cylinder which we said might have been water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted October 12, 2008 Report Share Posted October 12, 2008 Multimeters are cheap (under $30 often), and can be extremely handy for all sorts of things. Also, any water of whatever else that got into the cylinders would get pumped out into the exhaust within a few cranks anyways, so I don't think it would matter too much. As for the battery, I'm sure it's fine, just a bit discharged from cranking the engine so much to try to start it. Mine took an even bigger beating when ICM failed and I had a dying starter that drew bucket loads of current... ran it dead three times in one week from how much I was cranking the car! Honestly, when a car runs (no matter how badly, or barely) and then all you do is change plugs and wires, and then it won't even come close to thinking about starting, it's almost always something simple that got changed / overlooked during that job. Believe me... been there done that, more than once! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 Honestly, when a car runs (no matter how badly, or barely) and then all you do is change plugs and wires, and then it won't even come close to thinking about starting, it's almost always something simple that got changed / overlooked during that job. Believe me... been there done that, more than once! icon_redface I made sure I tightened all the plugs in there tight but not to tight... I double checked all the wires and made sure all the wires were snapped in both sides... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 I checked for spark today and I couldnt see any spark on any cylinder... But I was inside the car... I tried checking for spark on the 03 to see if the tester worked right but I couldnt get the wires out of the cylinder... I used the screw on the dog bone mount as a ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 The screw on the dogbone mount should be a good ground, but I like to use either the end of the cam carrier or the cylinder head as ground, as they are usually a more reliable ground. If you've got no spark at all now, I'd check to make sure the connections to the ICM didn't get damaged or unplugged when you were changing the plug wires. If nothing is found there, then pull the ICM and have it tested, or swap it with the one in your other GP (it still runs, right?) and see if that resolves it. If it is still no go, then I'd be looking at the condition of all the wiring going to the ICM, and at the CKP as well. Just out of curiosity, what type of tester were you using? Mine's the strobe type with a trigger, so the way I got mine to work while I was in the car was to use a short piece of wire to tie the trigger down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 the tester... I looked under the car and checked out the wires and everything looked good... I couldnt find any unhooked ones... The motor in the other car is 100% good and I wanna keep it that way incase I decide to swap it in... But how easy is it to take the ICM off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted October 18, 2008 Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 Easiest if you take the fans off first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 Oh great... I am going to take it to school and have my instructor look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderw31 Posted October 18, 2008 Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 I might be wrong, but I don't think that tester works with our cars. It looks like it is designed for coil on plug style ignitions. I use the inductive style light,like the one below. The ICM is sandwiched between the coil packs and metal plate attached to the block. You remove the 5.5mm bolts on the top and bottom of each coil, unclip the three harnesses from it, and it comes right out. If you have a 5.5mm socket, 1.5" extension, 3" extension, and a 1/4" drive ratchet, and you know where the bolts are, it really isn't hard at all. Pulling the fans gives you more room, and saves you from scratching the crap out of your hands . The lower bolt on the coil pack is dead center, below the coil itself. Looking at the pic I attached, the lower bolt would be straight down from the one you can see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted October 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 I will use that kind at school... I know we have them. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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