Euro Posted April 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2008 MY CAR'S DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They're finalizing everything, double checking connections, cleaning it up and then I'll be back behind the wheel. OMG I want to post like 2,344,544,543,998 of these :D :D :D :D :D :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted April 23, 2008 Report Share Posted April 23, 2008 make sure the coolant stays out of the oil from now on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2008 make sure the coolant stays out of the oil from now on I will do my damndest for sure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted April 23, 2008 Report Share Posted April 23, 2008 If the cam bearings were all scored that's a good indication that car didn't have previous oil changes regularily, or just had dirty oil in it for a long time. Sorta OT, but how does your tranny fluid look? Maybe you should change that out while you are at it if it's never been done before, and possible neglect in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 If the cam bearings were all scored that's a good indication that car didn't have previous oil changes regularily, or just had dirty oil in it for a long time. Sorta OT, but how does your tranny fluid look? Maybe you should change that out while you are at it if it's never been done before, and possible neglect in the past. Good point, I don't think I would've guessed that. I've changed it religiously at 3k miles or 3 months(usually 3k comes first). Last time I checked the fluid it looked ok, not perfect, but not total brown. I'll check it tomorow when I get'er back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 You want to keep reguarly changing that fluid (every 30kish or so) before it turns brown. Once it starts getting too bad you gotta leave it in. If its never been done, even at least just by you, do it now. Glad you got ur car back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 I will have to do that this weekend for sure then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
per0781 Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 breaking in the new motor = drive the shit out of it and congrats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 breaking in the new motor = drive the shit out of it and congrats lol hell no! I don't want to be going through all of this again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
per0781 Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 i'm being serious. the pistions ring need to seal properly and won't if you baby the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 At my school when we put in a new motor it gets babied the few blocks that there are in the city, and once we hit the highway it gets WOT several times to the nearest town, turn around, repeat, and it's good ot go lol. Although I suggest doing whatever GM says to do. Do you get a new waranty with the new motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UWISHU1 Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 glad GM took care of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 At my school when we put in a new motor it gets babied the few blocks that there are in the city, and once we hit the highway it gets WOT several times to the nearest town, turn around, repeat, and it's good ot go lol. Although I suggest doing whatever GM says to do. Do you get a new waranty with the new motor? I'm pretty sure I will get one with the motor, how long though I'm not sure. If not, my existing one will cover it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBULS Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 You want to keep reguarly changing that fluid (every 30kish or so) before it turns brown. Once it starts getting too bad you gotta leave it in. If its never been done, even at least just by you, do it now. Glad you got ur car back! No need to go that extreme unless you are a track-whore or drag/street race the car all the time. I figure just about everybody on THIS board likely qualifies for "Severe Service" though............ That being said, do a trans service every 50K (under "normal" driving, the interval is 100K). My suggestion is to do a pan drop-flush combo and MAKE SURE that NO other additives go in..............just Dex III (or Dex VI)..............NOTHING else. If you do BOTH, you have ALL of your bases covered..........new filter, gasket, o-ring, clean pan/magnet (and a look inside) and ALL new fluid (remember, a pan drop alone gets barely more than 50% of the old fluid out). It's not cheap, but there you have it............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 What is the big deal with transmission additives? i'm being serious. the pistions ring need to seal properly and won't if you baby the engine. I've heard this before too, can anyone back this up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 You want to keep reguarly changing that fluid (every 30kish or so) before it turns brown. Once it starts getting too bad you gotta leave it in. If its never been done, even at least just by you, do it now. Glad you got ur car back! No need to go that extreme unless you are a track-whore or drag/street race the car all the time. I figure just about everybody on THIS board likely qualifies for "Severe Service" though............ That being said, do a trans service every 50K (under "normal" driving, the interval is 100K). My suggestion is to do a pan drop-flush combo and MAKE SURE that NO other additives go in..............just Dex III (or Dex VI)..............NOTHING else. If you do BOTH, you have ALL of your bases covered..........new filter, gasket, o-ring, clean pan/magnet (and a look inside) and ALL new fluid (remember, a pan drop alone gets barely more than 50% of the old fluid out). It's not cheap, but there you have it............ Thanks for the insight!!! I don't think it's too bad, the car's only got 63k on it. And the "recommended" change is 50k, it's not that much over due. But I'll look today and when I go home this weekend I'll take'er in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZoomZoomFan Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 MY CAR'S DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They're finalizing everything, double checking connections, cleaning it up and then I'll be back behind the wheel. OMG I want to post like 2,344,544,543,998 of these :D :D :D :D :D :D YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY. I know how it feels to get your car back after a long time away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBULS Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 What is the big deal with transmission additives? i'm being serious. the pistions ring need to seal properly and won't if you baby the engine. I've heard this before too, can anyone back this up? 1) ALL ATF's come with a specific set of additives designed to work in a SPECIFIC set of trannies for the best balance of smooth shifting, correct clutch application, proper lubrication and the right amount of detergency. So..............Dex III is the specified fluid for all mid 90's to 06 (or so) GM auto trannies. But what happens if you use the worng fluid, and/or dump in aditives? Well, lets take the old-school Ford Type F ATF. This stuff is popular with drag racers as it has very FEW friction modifiers and usually slams shifts home with a nice crisp engagement (thus lower heat). But "old-man-Buick" is going to have a shit-fit if you put that into his Park Avenue. In addition, while that may SEEM to be the fluid of choice for a car that gets used hard, you may run into other problems such as the notoriously weak plastic thrust washers inside a 4T60-E grenading themselves (why do you think vacuum "shift kits" have killed 60-E's in the past). And going the other way can often be WORSE. Try dumping a can of Wynns "Shudderguard" into a healty trans..............suddenly the car slips on EVERY shift, wear out clutches prematurely. THIS is why so MANY people have problems with generic tranny flushes done at "Lube Monkey" chain stores..............they dump in all kinds of additives that changes the shift charactoristics and wear stuff out too fast. Just remember, ATF does a LOT inside your trans...........and it's very easy to fuck that up by dumping in the wrong stuff. What it comes down to is this: Use an ATF that meets the SPECIFIC spec (this means if you buy a Synthetic, make sure it's a Dex III compatible one like M1 ATF.......not a "universal" like Amsoil) that your trans was designed for. Anything else CAN (and usually WILL) cause problems, ESPECIALLY in the long-run. 2) Break in. I have ALSO heard that some WOT pulls are good during break in to seat the rings. Hell, Chrysler STILL recomends doing that on some of it's new cars. That's not to say that *I* would go beating the shit out of a new car and holding it at redline for 5 miles, but some harder runs CAN help things break in faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 By additives you mean like the stuff Lucas makes? My Lumina's trans slipped a few times off and on the first few months I had it, I put some of the Lucas no-slip or whatever in it and it shifted flawlessly for the next 4 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBULS Posted April 24, 2008 Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 By additives you mean like the stuff Lucas makes? My Lumina's trans slipped a few times off and on the first few months I had it, I put some of the Lucas no-slip or whatever in it and it shifted flawlessly for the next 4 years. That stuff is a band-aid to cover up the initial symptoms of a failure. Basically, the Lucas stuff swells seals and can band-aid a pressure bleed-off issue such as OD slipping, thus keeping the trans alive. RARELY does it actually FIX a problem though. Either way, a HEALTHY trans should have NOTHING but the specified ATF in it (and for you guys, that means Dex III or Dex VI [which suppersceeds III]). Unless you want to experiment of course On a properly built tranny, I hear Type F can work pretty darn well...........especially the synthetic B&M stuff. Hell, I've even heard of some guys with stock THM125C's running it and doing OK...........just nothing positive about long-term use in a stock 60 or 65-E. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2008 gotcha, thanks for the info!! btw, I got her back today :D :D They even washed it, and cleaned the inside for me....too bad it rained like hell today. I have a vid of the initial startup, not sure how good it was cause it was outside in the pooring rain. I'll get that up, as well as pics this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 Yeah, this weekend was kind of crappy. Today was nice, but no pics. She runs awesome so far. I've put about 130 miles on it since I picked it up. And it turns out that the new long block I got is an L26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 Isnt the L26 a series 1 3800? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted April 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 No L26 is the Series III. L27 I believe is the Series 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 I think you have it backwards.......but then again I could be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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