Elemental Designs eDead (Sound Dampener)

[xtremerevolution]

I bought some of this and covered my entire trunk lid, and it worked wonders, so I bought a shitton more.

 

I now have 160 square feet of it and have used up probably about 50 of it. My trunk is now 3/4 done being covered by this.

 

Question being now, how many layers should I use? I have so much of this stuff that its ridiculous. It's not insanely heavy, and it seems to make a difference, but would it be worth it going with multiple layers in the trunk? Or would I be better off pulling up the carpet and laying some of this stuff on the floor? I'm definitely also going to put some of it on the doors as well, and God knows where else. It's tons of fun.

[pwmin]

when the owner before luke replaced the carpet in the 91, he put 2 layers of what looks like eDead just about everywhere! i would just go 1 or 2.

[Andrew]

if you got the cheapest stuff, i would 2 layer it. if you got the mid or top grade, then 1 layer should suffice.

[CSI_MuNkY]

Whatever you choose to do... if you pull the carpet and do the entire passenger compartment, let me know how many square feet you used per layer. This is something I would like to do in the future.

 

Jamie

[Dark Ride]

Whatever you choose to do... if you pull the carpet and do the entire passenger compartment, let me know how many square feet you used per layer. This is something I would like to do in the future.

 

Jamie

X2, this is something I "Have" to do in the future since when I puled the carpet up, i vacuumed up what was left of the factory sound deadening stuff.

[GP1138]

Whatever you choose to do... if you pull the carpet and do the entire passenger compartment, let me know how many square feet you used per layer. This is something I would like to do in the future.

 

Jamie

X2, this is something I "Have" to do in the future since when I puled the carpet up, i vacuumed up what was left of the factory sound deadening stuff.

 

x3. I'd love to do this when I replace the Z carpet.

[Q-Ball]

Replacing carpet isnt fun at all! I'd like to do that one day too.

[GtipGary]

Shit you need to hook a brother up with some of that stuff... you heard my trunk today!

[Ryan from Ohio]

I hope its not V1 2

 

http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/showthread.php?t=279149&page=1&pp=15&highlight=Milne

[CSI_MuNkY]

I hope its not V1 2

 

http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/showthread.php?t=279149&page=1&pp=15&highlight=Milne

 

Can you sum it up? I don't have the attention span to read through 11 pages of people bitching.

 

I skimmed through bits and peices of the first page... How does sound deadener "fail"? Product failure would come from a hole being poked in it or flexing over time and wearing it out. But your going to get that with any sound deadener and not just his product.

 

So either I'm missing something here, or... well no, I gotta be missing something here for that thread to make any sense.

 

Jamie

 

Jamie

[xtremerevolution]

Hmm. That's the first time I read this thread.

 

I'll give it a month or so before I start installing things heavily. I'll wait it out and see how this stuff does in my trunk for now, since that thread has me a bit iffy on some of this stuff.

 

And yeah, I did get eDead V1^2.

 

If it doesn't work out, it won't be too hard to replace. I didn't pay all that much for it anyway (in comparison to other brands), so I'm not too worried about it. I'd imagine I got my money's worth.

[slick]

Guy's... this is how Sound Deadener fails: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

I've heard the same thing about the ED stuff as well, from other sources.

 

And they still claim that it is Butyl based. So, either it is the crappiest form of Butyl ever, or they simply are just lying.

[Ryan from Ohio]

Basically the V1 2 is simply a cheaply made junk deadener product.

 

The big problems starts as the mylar foil applied to it was stretched over it. So it has stress in it. When it gets hot, it pulls itself apart and self destructs.

 

I would NEVER in a million years buy a sound dampening product from them monkey's at eD, they are completely and utterly idiotic. The first go around they LIED about the product. They over estimated it. When the product failed they blamed the customer for not installing it correctly.

 

In fact it was asphalt.

 

The measurements of the products were done on a bathroom scale, in the products BOX?

 

They wouldnt recall it as it leaves them open for huge losses and potential lawsuits.

 

Now another sound dampening issue raises its ugly head. Their defense so far is its fine in THEIR cars... The climate where they are at is not like anywhere else, its fairly mild and not very hot or humid... They are tools...

 

 

And the main guy on that thread at CAF, Rudeboy, thats the dude who owns/operates the sounddeadnershowdown.

[pwmin]

hmm, i'm not sure what is im my car exactly cuz i didnt put it there and im not sure what edead i put in my old car, either, but i think it was V.1. guess i wont buy any more edead in the future.

[xtremerevolution]

Alright. I'm highly considering sending a bunch of it back (if not all of it).

 

If I do, what should I get to replace it (at least for a decent price)?

[Ryan from Ohio]

Very good choice!

 

I would advise Second Skin. They are undoubtedly the best. Raamat is also good.

 

Check out the link Chris put up: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

Rudeboy does a good job, so trust in his tests. They are real world tests.

 

The absolute last thing you want to do is put all that EFFORT into doing this, only to find out that it falls off and is flopping around inside your doors... And if its not holding tight to the metal, its not doing a thing anyhow

[Garrett Powered]

you wont need it in the doors, it makes the door too heavy and a pain to get out when the car is tilted. just bolt the speaker pod to the door and it should be fine.

 

parts express has the asphalt stuff which sticks very well. I like the neoprene/nitrile rubber composite foam gasketing sheets, part # 268-278. its the best for taping over fiberglass and foam before carpeting your trunk. and lighter weight. that heavy stuff does not belong in the car in excessive amounts. its just not necessary.

[xtremerevolution]

Damn...I can see why eD's stuff is so cheap. It's less than $1 per square foot, whereas the stuff from Second Skin runs you over $2.50 per square foot. Raamat is also a nice $1.75 a square foot if you are kind enough to buy two rolls, each going for $110 apiece.

 

When I installed the eD dampening on the trunk lid, it made a pretty nice difference. Perhaps I might be able to get better performance using something else, but at the very least I'm sure that what I've installed so far is effective to a certain degree. I'll wait it out and see if it starts peeling off of my trunk lid. So far it hasn't. If it does, I'll let you guys know about my experience. I have 160 square feet of this stuff. It might have been a mistake to buy so much, but the fact is that I have it and a lot of it is already installed.

 

On a side note, I did an experiment installing it in a loud server computer case I had at my girlfriend's house. The dampening made that computer about half as loud as it was prior to installation.

 

So far I'm not too annoyed by the performance. I suppose I got what I paid for at less than $1 a square foot. If it starts peeling off, that's when I'll start getting a bit pissed and I'll order a roll of Raamat.

[Garrett Powered]

I would stick a few small pieces on the flat spots under the trunk lid but foam injection works better and lighter. will never peel off or be seen either. I have to point it out before people know its even there since I used the new "black" okie foam.

 

another technique that is invisible to people not looking for it is the trunk gasket injected with silicone. If you had knowledge of these tricks and tried some of them you would most likely simply kick back and laugh at everyone running around price matching that stuff. part #268-278. only one worth paying $ for.

[xtremerevolution]

I would stick a few small pieces on the flat spots under the trunk lid but foam injection works better and lighter. will never peel off or be seen either. I have to point it out before people know its even there since I used the new "black" okie foam.

 

another technique that is invisible to people not looking for it is the trunk gasket injected with silicone. If you had knowledge of these tricks and tried some of them you would most likely simply kick back and laugh at everyone running around price matching that stuff. part #268-278. only one worth paying $ for.

 

Good idea. Where do I get foam injection?

 

And where do I get that silicone?

[Garrett Powered]

hardware store.

 

touch n foam in the can. outdoor formula color: black

 

silicone caulk, caulking gun.

 

disposable gloves are a must.

[CSI_MuNkY]

By foam injection are you talking about that expanding foam shit? If so be careful using that stuf. I've personally seen that shit kick out 2x4 studs when use within a wall, or bend the snot out of a window (glass and all). I'd be afraid of spraying it into the crevas and having it buldge the body panel out.

 

When it comes to doing doors or that area beside the rear seats in the wall. Has anyone ever tried a Batt insulation? Not fiberglass, if water got in there mold would be a killer. But Rockwool type insulations don't hold water so no mold forms. And they are WAY more effective that regular fiberglass insulation. I had to do a project comparing the stuff to regular insulation in residentail construction. I tested a bunch of its properties... including fire, you CAN'T light the shit on fire...

 

Jamie

[Grand Moff Joseph]

By foam injection are you talking about that expanding foam shit? If so be careful using that stuf. I've personally seen that shit kick out 2x4 studs when use within a wall, or bend the snot out of a window (glass and all). I'd be afraid of spraying it into the crevas and having it buldge the body panel out.

 

When it comes to doing doors or that area beside the rear seats in the wall. Has anyone ever tried a Batt insulation? Not fiberglass, if water got in there mold would be a killer. But Rockwool type insulations don't hold water so no mold forms. And they are WAY more effective that regular fiberglass insulation. I had to do a project comparing the stuff to regular insulation in residentail construction. I tested a bunch of its properties... including fire, you CAN'T light the shit on fire...

 

Jamie

 

I really have no clue, but the first thing that popped in my head when I read that was a vision of members' cars with pink insulation showing everywhere.

[Garrett Powered]

you cant insulate the back walls or install non-podded speakers back there. well, I take that back, I used some spray foam between the wheelwell and the body sheetmetal but only to keep water from gathering there and give it a little more rigidity. if I decide to scrape it out, no big deal, it will break out of there. once again proving it dont warp the metal though.

 

reason why, thats where the rain drains down and out the bottom of the pinch weld. not much water, but sunroof drain tubes plumb into that cavity as well. If you do install speakers they must be completely airtight sealed or they will eventually rust.

 

and you dont use much foam. you can get a junkyard decklid and try it on that first if you want to practice/experiment.

 

I have yet to find any flaws or drawbacks to using this technique while using it sparingly.

[Ryan from Ohio]

You are SUPPOSED to use sound dampening on yours doors also! Especially if they house speakers! In that case, you want to apply it to the inside of the outer door skins. Also the inner door frame covered by the door card. This makes a world of difference.

 

Im partial to Second Skin. Ant is a class act. You always get first rate products and if for some very odd reason you have an issue Im sure he would stand up and fix it.