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EDIT PMIII fixed.. but still another problem


kuntzie
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My PMIII doesn't work very well. It's kind of like up to 90% pedal travel there's almost zero braking. Then the last 10% it's like 100% braking. It makes for very scary stops. The pump runs every single time I step on the brakes and the yellow ABS light often comes on, so I think the accumulator is dead.

 

Think if I replaced the accumulator, the PMIII would actually be a good system?

I know the PMIII is over-engineered, but if it can be made to work well and reliably fairly inexpensively, there's really no reason to spend that much effort to replace it.

 

Definatly acuumulator, for 100$ yea, it will be a great system with a new one!

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Wait till it fails at 75 mph in traffic! Pop Wosh OHHH....@!$##^%*@&

It has happened.

The 80's grandnationals had similiar systems you know, and they did just that, instantaneous failure with no warning.

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That was the Grand Nationals Power Master 1 system, it was super unreliable, and they did do that, the Powermaster 3 has had no such happenings, its a totally revised system

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But it still does fail. As I recall, what i said can happen will happen if the pressure accumulator suddenly ruptures from rusting out. At least it usually leaves you with manual brakes!

Hey! I compared my dead powermaster to one on a dodge caravan... It was identical.... Made by Denso. Not Even a GM part! They also made the digital guages. I wouldn't trust a part made for Chrysler in my car! -ken

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Wasnt aware caravans had sucha system, but i havent herd of any w owners have thier brakes completly fail all of a sudden to the point where they cant stop lik the PM1 did, any Master cylinder can fail tho

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I read it as part of some problem diagnosis schematics somewhere, the general this has happened, these were the circumstances type... I bought my convertable as a project and discovered it had the system... Once i did some research, I knew it was out of the question for me to even both repairing mine. You can't fix what can never be right. (no offense intended)

Nature may abhor a vaccum, but i don't, and I knew a great place for me to get parts. So I figured out how to do it long before I found this site.

 

True that. thats why i upgrade to the rear 94+ calipers, they have emergency stopping power.

The caravan/voyager POS that the system was on was a fulled loaded with factory external cd player. I thought it was funny as hell. I hate those vans, btw

I'll see if i can't find it again and get a pic.

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You can't fix what can never be right. (no offense intended)

 

Prior obviously did with their new PM III Units. Bad thing is, you have to pay upwards of $800 to get one of their units now a days.

The difference between the original PM III unit that was in my old TGP and the new Prior PM III in our black TGP was huge, especially after I replaced the seized rear calipers. 8)

Yes, a 94+ upgrade is in the car's future.

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Yes, a 94+ upgrade is in the car's future.

God Bless Ye Every-One.

It not that hard! search your local wrecking yerd for a freshly done brake job, and it's simple bolt-off bolt-on install... plus a bleed. the hard part is making the parking brake work.

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Oh, more for you

 

Gutlass Supreme Wrote this

 

first, get down and position yourself so you can see straight up above the brake pedal. The boot at the bottom of the steering column is going to be the biggest pain in the ass.

 

you should see a yellow/clearish plastic thing up near the top of the brake pedal.. that's the switch. There should be a very small silver metal tab facing the firewall. On one side of the switch, there should be a kinda longish, curved slit where two tabs stick out. pull and hold the metal tab out, and then with whatever fingers/hand you can reach with, grip the two plastic tabs on the side with your finder tips and just move them as far down to the bottom of the curved slit as you can. let go of the metal tab.

 

press the brake pedal all the way to the floor, DO NOT PULL BACK UP ON IT! let it rise again by itself. that should be all you need to do.

 

also, on the rear side of the dash carriage, in front of the pedal, there should be some kind of yellow/clearish round button/switch that has some kind of a hose coming from it. I don't know what it is but push it towards the firewall as much as you can until the button side hits the brake pedal. it's probably supposed to be there, but as I said I don't know what it does, and it'll help resist the urge to pull the pedal back up with your foot, because it'll give you some resistance.

 

btw, don't expect the metal tab to move much. you probably won't notice that it actually came out any - only needs to move out like a millimeter to that some metal prongs on the inside come completely off of some gear teeth.

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also, on the rear side of the dash carriage, in front of the pedal, there should be some kind of yellow/clearish round button/switch that has some kind of a hose coming from it. I don't know what it is ...

it's a vaccum release switch for the cruise control.

 

I can't recall..... I deleted the funky elctrical switch during my upgrade to vaccum bakes on my 91 CS convertable. Does your guys's cars have only one push button location, which is occupied by the aforementioned vac release switch? It might be more reliable if you could upgrade your cars to take a standard brake switch with 3 internal switches like standard vac cars have, and you would only have depin the old harness connectors and repin them into the simple standard switch connectors.

 

 

BTW, My pedal on the PMIII returned to the top fine... but only because of a bungee cord i discovered holding it after i drove it home... OMIGOD. lol

 

edit: I said something stupid here. but only if you had read it would you know what fact I goofed on. Ha-Ha

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