Supreme Cutlass Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 I have some very stuck lug nuts, they must've been torqued WAY too hard somewhere down the line. Any advice on getting these off? Should a breaker bar do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 Any advice on getting these off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supreme Cutlass Posted August 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 If only I hadn't thrown out the wrench I broke IN HALF trying to get these off... It'll take more than wheaties Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 from the sounds of it you will end up breaking a stud or two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 Take it to a shop and have them torque them right. They should charge you little or nothing to do it if you take it to a reputable place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron350 Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 What Justin said or find a ½” electric impact gun to break the lugnuts loose. Wonder if tool rental places have those? My 96 factory service manual says. “Caution: Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts with your fingers until they are snug. Then tighten the nuts to the torque shown in spec. Section (100-ft. lb.). Improperly tightened wheel nuts could eventually allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is moving, possibly causing loss of control, personal injury and property damage.” So do not do what I do and smear a very thin film of grease or anti-seize on wheel studs and lugnut shoulder where it touches the rim. And no mater what, do not apply a thin film of anti-seize compound between the rotor and hub and rotor and wheel contact surface to prevent corrosion. Nod nod wink wink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 I think if you were to spray some WD-40 or something to remove rust, and then spray it with brake cleaner after to remove the grease it should make them nice. But like ron350 said.... a little bit is okay I've taken the wheels off my 88 and 95 many times, and I just tighten them hard (equally on all lugnuts) and I've never warped a rotor. Get a new (BETTER) tire iron, and a breaker bar, and force the bitch off. I little heat might also help, I dunno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo231 Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 So do not do what I do and smear a very thin film of grease or anti-seize on wheel studs and lugnut shoulder where it touches the rim. And no mater what, do not apply a thin film of anti-seize compound between the rotor and hub and rotor and wheel contact surface to prevent corrosion. Nod nod wink wink. How many of you have had an Aluminum wheel corrode to the rotor/hub? <raises hand> Of course, my car is known for rust and corrosion, but NEVER AGAIN!!! <Technical part> When using a thread lubricant, you're actually forcing the two surfaces to be tighter together. Because you eliminate some of the friction between the lug and the stud, more clamping force is actually applied to the wheel/rotor, which you would think is a good thing. GE requires thread lubricant on their Turbine to Generator coupling bolts...and those are only 300,000 shaft horsepower. On my car, I don't care, cause if I don't coat it, it will never come off again. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sl3196 Posted August 10, 2005 Report Share Posted August 10, 2005 Yah I broke a stud on my cavi cause it wouldn't come off. Have a shop do it haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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