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Are we still doing phrasing because you know full well I have not, A. because I`m a believer in global warming and I freakin hate the cold. B. because you have yet explained why cat converters should be required other than it makes a funny smell. C. because they dont make catalytic converters in the US anymore. Why should I help funnel US dollars overseas into the hands of those that determined me a servant class human in their NWO agenda? When I really do not "have" to because they say? I would love to here this(insert My Cousin Vinny gif)

Have you ever crammed an exhaust-gas analyzer into the tailpipes of no-catalyst vehicles and catalyst-equipped vehicles? Kinda guessing "no".

Now on with the modification that needs done for the other side of the knuckle. While the other 10mm threaded holes are now at around 2.250” deep you’ll need longer bolts. I would seriously suggest using 304 stainless steel! Why? Steel & aluminum don’t get along with each other & since these are blind holes the likely hood of there being electrolysis between them is inevitable with corrosion that will freeze them up, being that they are in a blind hole. This makes that corrosion difficult to effect because of that. So the difficulty of getting them out later maybe significant. So basically you I’ll make two long studs & set screw them. Where they interface with the set screws the threads will need to be removed by undercutting. For reference I used 8x32 thread set screws. I also cut a screwdriver slot into the top of each stud to use for installation.

So here is the start of this improvement modification. My advice would be get a spare set of knuckles. So obviously I would recommend sandblasting or glass bead the knuckles if they’re not new. Now drill the two 10mm threaded holes that are on the opposite side from the caliper mounting flange of the knuckle deeper, about 2.250” deep total. These two holes are blind. The setup to do this should be done on a mill as you will see in the attached pictures. Now you will flip the knuckle over to spot face the backside of the two short 10mm through holes. This is done to make a flat surface for the new bolt arrangement that will be used. This arrangement will change the two through holes from 10mm x 1.5mm to 7/16 14 thread. This is done by drilling those two holes out to the tap drill size of a 7/16 x 14 bolt. Then tap the hole with a 7/16 tap. You will notice that drilling out the 10mm taped holes does not remove all the threads. That’s ok! Metric threads are a very different animal when compared to US threads! American threads are far & away superior to metric, fact based from the principles of what threads are! I don’t just say that because I’m American. Metic threads are weaker, strip more often & in general defy the good principles of threading, which is considered an art form! And has been from almost the beginning. I can speak to this later if someone wants to know more, but for now you’ll never know that there was ever a 10mm thread there when finished! Next you will need to open up the two holes on the brake backing plate that corresponds to the 7/16 bolts. Drill them out to 7/16.

One of the other issues with the factory rear design are the bolt heads & fit. The compression part of the bolt head, the diameter, is to small & the fit of the bolt shank is far to small. The diameter of the through hole in the brake backing plate is .395 to .400, but the through hole in the hub bearing is .460! With the bolt size being 10mm (.390.), the more important fit is the bolt size to the hub bearing! So the whole setup is garbage! The clearance fit of the bolt to the hub bearing should be no more than .015 total, .0075 on a side, with .010 total or .005 on a side being ideal. So before I move on with the detailing of this modification I want to show just how poor of an engineered setup this is! As I said before the head engineer that ok’d this design is a disgrace to the craft! Look at the following pictures. First is the bearing hub bolt. The shoulder of the bolt head is .682 thousands by .100 thick. Yet the hole in the bearing hub is .470 thousands. Put in perspective that is only .106 thousands on a side bigger that the hole! On top of that the bolt shaft is .388 thousands in diameter. That is typical of a bolt thread as they are always a few thousands small diametrically, of which case means there is .294 total difference in diameter & .147 on a side! That is not how you engineer bolts & their respective fits. Considering the fact that these 4 bolts on each hub carry the entire transferred lateral load of the rear suspension; it isn’t surprising that under aggressive handling they fail. Additionally, the last picture shows just how little contact, I.E. clamping force there is generated from this setup! The thin dark line that runs around the outer edge of the hub bolt is all that is making contact with the hub! A mere .106! That pitiful!