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I originally did the 2 ICs, but then had to do it again not too long after (can't remember if months or years). So I ended up just reflowing every single joint and that kept it working well over a decade. I added flux to every joint and added a little new solder, but I didn't remove any old solder. If you plan to desolder first, then I'd recommend finding vintage 60/40 solder (with lead). If all you can get is RoHS solder, then it'd be a good idea to keep the old solder as it still has lead. Leadless RoHS solder are famous for solder joints going bad over time. Checking the caps is a good idea. I didn't do that at the time, but I've had to change out enough electrolytic caps to know they have a finite life.

Basically the 2 big ICs are the biggest areas of concern. For me over the long run reflowing the joints is a temporary fix, I've had more success in adding some good solder. Recently I've purchased a proper desoldering tool and I'll just clean out the solder and start over with fresh

Finally getting around to doing this project. Mine ended up being under the rear deck upholstery. I’ve got it out and apart now. There’s a lot of joints to go through. I have soldering experience so I don’t think I’ll have a problem rerunning the solder. It would be helpful if I could get a general idea of which ones are the most troublesome. I’ll look at the capacitors too to see if they’re all good.

That's a daunting swap! Wish I had the balls to do it, but I draw the line at cutting away at a unibody frame that likely wouldn't have won any 1995 IIHS safety awards in the first place. You're all good BCM-wise, there isn't one.

I promised myself my this swap getting done, time isn’t the problem, once I have that entire subframe setup engine tranny wiring ecu tcm all in one it will be much easier to show how it’ll be started on

55 linked some w-body specific links. You may also check into the Fiero groups and see how their wiring is done and which PCM's they use. If you're on Facebook go to this group https://www.facebook.com/share/g/16TmFr1XSe/ They specialize in Fiero's, but he's posted a ton of info on wiring and PCM's. the concept will be the same, even if the wiring plugs to match the rest of the car harness don't line up.

Lol.....you're not the first to attempt this swap......

Welcome! That sounds like a somewhat ambitious swap. A 95 would have had the 4t60e, which has the shifts controlled electronically. Outside of physically fitting in the engine bay, I can’t see any of the existing electronics functioning with an LS4. On the flip side…it’s an LS4. I know there are aftermarket companies that make ECMs that can run LS series engines, as well as standalone TCMs specifically for the 4T80e, so finding the parts to run the powertrain should be possible, and likely relatively easy as well. Best of luck! While ambitious….it would be awesome to see something like this completed!

so this is my first post here on this forum and i don't quite know what to get out of it, as you saw I'm attempting to get all pieces together to get a 5.3L LS4 with the transmission, all wiring ecu tcm is all connected, the entire subframe setup was taken down from a impala to swap into my 95 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL. Being a obd 1 car i don't know if its only the ecm/ecu that runs the tranny or if there's a bcm ( body control module) that goes with it, that being said this car was given to me as a gift from my grandfather who recently passed, so if you guys are tryna convince me to start with something else forget it, ive seen the motor go into the car already and the guy who posted it here was even brave enough to get a 4t80 inside along with it. my main question is what ecu and standalone kit would be best used for this setup as i only see all other ecu's being compatible with the other LS engines instead of this one

In the old days, there used to be shops that could rebuild electric motors. New brushes, even new windings if necessary. I don't know if such places exist any more. You might search your area and see if any such places pop up.

Yep, I've probably removed the bezel a hundred times across 3 Cutlass Supremes and it's never broken. It's hard plastic and seems brittle, but it's actually quite durable.

Good point, it may. I'll keep an eye on it. My feeling is at this point it will outlast that car. It will be interesting to see and I'll check in after a while to let the members know. Thanks for the feedback

Applying grease to an area subject to road-splash and dust entry may be counterproductive.

The glas leaf would be in an *ok* situation if the ends were curled up slightly to allow the end of the leaf to lay flat in the knuckle opening *without* the rubber isolators, then the friction between the end of the leaf & the nylon pads would be lessened.

That is correct 55...., It has been a bit confusing trying to figure out just the blocks, just the rubber pads, both? To me bother would lift the rest too high and the rubber pads would wear through eventually. I am thinking the blocks will last for a long time, maybe longer the the car, who knows. It has been an interesting experience and I've learned far more about W bodies that I thought I'd ever learn lol. Still curious about actual parts numbers to build the rear coil overs. Thanks for the feedback

Ok, I take it by that wording the original rubber pads are not on the ends of the glas leaf, the glas leaf is riding directly on the nylon blocks. This is not an ideal arrangement, but other than getting a pair of the rubber pads in place there's little one can do, the ends of the glas leaf do not tilt upwards at all to allow the weight to spread out evenly at the very end of the leaf where the contact to the pad is, the very end of the leaf will dig into the nylon pad.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oldsmobile_Cutlass_Supreme According to the link, the last convertible was built on Feb 15th, 1995. I would be wary of this seller. Could possibly be a scam if they're not educated in these cars and is that headstrong about proving how wrong you are. Make sure they're pics, (if some are shown), are consistent and nothing looks odd. So many times I've dealt with sellers listing so many wrong pieces of information. It's not only about W's either, many makes and models being listed with wrong info over the years.

That's your only option. Once those screws are out, you have to pull that bezel towards you as it's held on with tension clips. The clips are metal and won't break. I've never had a problem with the bezel breaking either. It will sound like it's going to break...creaking and moaning, but it will come. Also, I just disconnect the connector for the headlamps switch, I don't remove it from the bezel. With the bezel out, you'll see two 7 mm screws I think they are that holds the radio to the main dash. They will be at the bottom of the radio. The radio will slide out and give you some room to disconnect the connectors from the back of it. Disregard the dash pad being off. It's not necessary to remove the pad when just removing the radio.

Hello all, Hoping someone would be able to help me resolve a disagreement I'm currently having with an individual who is wanting to sell a cutlass convertible. They have it listed as a '96 model year, and even before I started researching the subject, I was pretty certain the last year for the conv. was '95. I did some research, and politely suggested that he had miss-typed the year in his add. His response was similar to the effect of, "I can send you an image of the title, and you should Google it, and do your research." So I dug a little deeper, and didn't find anything anywhere supporting the fact that the convertibles were produced into the 1996 model year. Before responding to them, does anyone have any supporting documentation or a link to such, to help prove my case? Thanks in advance!

Does anyone know what is involved in removing the radio on this model? The trim is brittle and I don’t want to break anything that can’t be replaced. I removed the trim screws from under the top of the dash but I’m afraid to slide the trim out that goes around the radio and gauges.

The blocks are without the rubber and just help in place by the spring tension. After liberal use of Lucas red and sticky on the blocks the noise has stopped. It has been about a week now so I'm hopeful this issue is solved. Thank you all for the reply and info

either that or it’s like my 06, it vents and then slides. But I guess it would still have to have a stop function somewhere… I don’t know, I’m just happy it’s working

Yep, that makes sense and brings back memories that my TGP also wouldn't stop, but in my case, it was the little switch was packed full of dirt and I had to clean it out, then it would stop. Now I see why they did it that way. Interesting that it's not fully integrated into the Saturn unit, I'd guess they use an external 3rd relay for that function.

Yeah, the way the roof is setup on this (and I assume other W's and other GMs of the era) is that the closed position is in the middle. From closed button "a" we'll call it opens it to vent, and then "b" will close it from vent. From closed button "b" will slide it back into the roof, and button "a" slides it back to closed. There's a little switch that the glass frame hits when in the closed position that stops the motor, so I lost that function, but from the looks of it the relay setup otherwise is identical.

Oh wait, was that so it would turn off when it fully shut, so it wouldn't continue into the vent position, or when in vent and you go to shut it, it doesn't continue to fully open? If that's what it was for, I can see why they did it now. Not 100% without seeing bottom of the boards, but it's probably possible to desolder the individual relays off the one board and replace them on the other. They look about the same size and probably same pinouts. Might be challenging if you don't have any desoldering tools.