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And grabbing some old photos from fast fwd performance on the internet archive, its hard to tell... Pic 3 is for the pushrod motors...

So I bought this pulley from a known community member on facebook (not a scammer), and I installed it, and when I started the engine it instantly shredded the belt. I assumed I did something wrong but on closer inspection the pulley is way too "shallow". Did I get a pulley for the wrong engine? I compared the stock pulley on my 3.4 to my spare engines and they are all deep (like the black one in the picture). The directions do not mention any spacer or anything.

that sounds awesome i’ll check that out thanks man, picking up a 98 integra thursday , hoping to have the corsica running as soon as i get that harness connector 3d printed (hmu if needed for that 4 port my buddy is making a model for me)

Nice Z34! I built an custom exhaust for my 94 Euro sedan with 2“ piping and instead of the resonator I did use a cherry bomb m80 muffler it’s like a flowmaster muffler just in a compact round case , after that there’s only a 2“ tail pipe what I made out of some 45 degree pipes . It’s not too loud and has a nice tone , you could do something similar with a rear muffler delete

Wow this thing is beautiful!!

I should get mine working, one more thing I haven’t bothered with in years, but now that I fixed my sunroof relay might as well figure this one out as well.

Dorman does sell universal hard vacuum tubing. You can probably bend it to shape with a heat gun. Years ago, I just put heatshrink tubing over the cracks. Looked like an obvious fudge-fix, but worked fine.

i have the rubber connector for the vaccum harness from my 89 2.8 v6 corsica, i’m looking for new hard lines for the vacuum harness now, one of mine has a hole, i can buy the lines if you still have them since you’re going with softer ones, maybe we can trade parts

It worked! Thanks for all the pointers. All I did was reflow the old solder so I left the rear deck cover off for now, the cover was very sun damaged anyway. But at least I have a working key fob now. IMG_7474.mov

I originally did the 2 ICs, but then had to do it again not too long after (can't remember if months or years). So I ended up just reflowing every single joint and that kept it working well over a decade. I added flux to every joint and added a little new solder, but I didn't remove any old solder. If you plan to desolder first, then I'd recommend finding vintage 60/40 solder (with lead). If all you can get is RoHS solder, then it'd be a good idea to keep the old solder as it still has lead. Leadless RoHS solder are famous for solder joints going bad over time. Checking the caps is a good idea. I didn't do that at the time, but I've had to change out enough electrolytic caps to know they have a finite life.

Basically the 2 big ICs are the biggest areas of concern. For me over the long run reflowing the joints is a temporary fix, I've had more success in adding some good solder. Recently I've purchased a proper desoldering tool and I'll just clean out the solder and start over with fresh

Finally getting around to doing this project. Mine ended up being under the rear deck upholstery. I’ve got it out and apart now. There’s a lot of joints to go through. I have soldering experience so I don’t think I’ll have a problem rerunning the solder. It would be helpful if I could get a general idea of which ones are the most troublesome. I’ll look at the capacitors too to see if they’re all good.

That's a daunting swap! Wish I had the balls to do it, but I draw the line at cutting away at a unibody frame that likely wouldn't have won any 1995 IIHS safety awards in the first place. You're all good BCM-wise, there isn't one.

I promised myself my this swap getting done, time isn’t the problem, once I have that entire subframe setup engine tranny wiring ecu tcm all in one it will be much easier to show how it’ll be started on

55 linked some w-body specific links. You may also check into the Fiero groups and see how their wiring is done and which PCM's they use. If you're on Facebook go to this group https://www.facebook.com/share/g/16TmFr1XSe/ They specialize in Fiero's, but he's posted a ton of info on wiring and PCM's. the concept will be the same, even if the wiring plugs to match the rest of the car harness don't line up.

Lol.....you're not the first to attempt this swap......

Welcome! That sounds like a somewhat ambitious swap. A 95 would have had the 4t60e, which has the shifts controlled electronically. Outside of physically fitting in the engine bay, I can’t see any of the existing electronics functioning with an LS4. On the flip side…it’s an LS4. I know there are aftermarket companies that make ECMs that can run LS series engines, as well as standalone TCMs specifically for the 4T80e, so finding the parts to run the powertrain should be possible, and likely relatively easy as well. Best of luck! While ambitious….it would be awesome to see something like this completed!

so this is my first post here on this forum and i don't quite know what to get out of it, as you saw I'm attempting to get all pieces together to get a 5.3L LS4 with the transmission, all wiring ecu tcm is all connected, the entire subframe setup was taken down from a impala to swap into my 95 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL. Being a obd 1 car i don't know if its only the ecm/ecu that runs the tranny or if there's a bcm ( body control module) that goes with it, that being said this car was given to me as a gift from my grandfather who recently passed, so if you guys are tryna convince me to start with something else forget it, ive seen the motor go into the car already and the guy who posted it here was even brave enough to get a 4t80 inside along with it. my main question is what ecu and standalone kit would be best used for this setup as i only see all other ecu's being compatible with the other LS engines instead of this one

In the old days, there used to be shops that could rebuild electric motors. New brushes, even new windings if necessary. I don't know if such places exist any more. You might search your area and see if any such places pop up.

Yep, I've probably removed the bezel a hundred times across 3 Cutlass Supremes and it's never broken. It's hard plastic and seems brittle, but it's actually quite durable.

Good point, it may. I'll keep an eye on it. My feeling is at this point it will outlast that car. It will be interesting to see and I'll check in after a while to let the members know. Thanks for the feedback

Applying grease to an area subject to road-splash and dust entry may be counterproductive.

The glas leaf would be in an *ok* situation if the ends were curled up slightly to allow the end of the leaf to lay flat in the knuckle opening *without* the rubber isolators, then the friction between the end of the leaf & the nylon pads would be lessened.

That is correct 55...., It has been a bit confusing trying to figure out just the blocks, just the rubber pads, both? To me bother would lift the rest too high and the rubber pads would wear through eventually. I am thinking the blocks will last for a long time, maybe longer the the car, who knows. It has been an interesting experience and I've learned far more about W bodies that I thought I'd ever learn lol. Still curious about actual parts numbers to build the rear coil overs. Thanks for the feedback

Ok, I take it by that wording the original rubber pads are not on the ends of the glas leaf, the glas leaf is riding directly on the nylon blocks. This is not an ideal arrangement, but other than getting a pair of the rubber pads in place there's little one can do, the ends of the glas leaf do not tilt upwards at all to allow the weight to spread out evenly at the very end of the leaf where the contact to the pad is, the very end of the leaf will dig into the nylon pad.