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First off thank you. That GTP is like my baby lol If you manage to connect the ECC to the proper wires it should work. I don't know exactly what wires are what in these cars for the climate control units. Mine shows outside temp and whatever temp I set the dials to. I would probably go to a junkyard and grab as much wiring harness from a car that has ECC and start figuring out where all those go so you can tap into the correct wires.

First of all beautiful gtp!! Second of all I did a comparison and the only difference between the 2 is 1. It shows inside temp and outside temp on the ecc and doesn’t on mine obviously(no screen) and 2 it has a little different button selection and it automatically adjusts the fans like you said, however since that is done in the unit, I’m wondering if(because I’m guessing mine also has at least the inside temp sensor) that if i connect solder on the connecter for the ecc and confirm that I’ve made the right connections with schematics, in theory everything should work the same, I’m really hoping at least…

Mine is just 2 dials with buttons. When set to a temp it will automatically adjust the fan speed.

I’ve seen that one before, I’m not totally sure of the difference between automatic and manual control, I know one has 3 knobs and my version has 2 knobs and 2 sliders, im not sure which is which

I know doing this isn't easy. I found a thread from the old grand prix forums that may be of use. I do like the electric climate control feature in my 2000 GTP. https://www.grandprixforums.com/how-to-write-ups-tech-tips/106563-97-02-pontiac-grand-prix-manual-dual-hvac-to-automatic-hvac-conversion.html

Have a 03 gtp and Im interested in trying to convert it to have electronic climate control, since I believe that option was removed in 00, does anyone have any pictures of behind their dash and the connecter that it uses, along with maybe some schematics, I know it’s possible, just wanna know how challenging it’d be

On the TGP facebook group find these 2 people Matt Shantz to buy a rebuilt crossover Adam Perkins for your ECM chip These are the only people who do that for the TGP community with the experience you'd want.

I've got an issue with my 2006 Buick LaCrosse where the RPM's surge anywhere between 1800 and 2200 RPMs. Sometimes the bounce will be +/- 100, while other times the engine will bounce a bit more aggressively, likely +/- 200 to 300 RPMs. As soon as I let off or put more pressure on the pedal, the issue disappears. This issue began almost immediately after I replaced my Air Filter, but I've checked it 1000 times to make sure it's the right size and that it's seated properly. I've even replaced it with another filter, but it didn't stop. Now, I'm aware similar posts have been made, but the solutions I've found haven't worked. I cleaned my MAF, cleaned my EGR, replaced my Throttle Body, bought new spark plugs and wires, and tried a vacuum leak test with a can of Carb Cleaner, and nothing has shown up to be a problem. Another thing that makes my problem unique is that this issue will stop sometimes, mostly after I disconnect the battery for a few hours. However, it'll start back up again after a few weeks of it driving completely normal. This is the part that has really stumped me. As for data on my scan tool, the only thing I've identified that may be an issue is that my Fuel Trim seems to always be negative. It seems to be -5 at idle, and between -10 to -15 when driving. I'm not sure what's causing this, but I have no check engine lights indicating that there's any type of fuel problem. I've also checked my mass airflow sensor data, and it seems to be reading as you'd expect, but the data does bounce up and down when the engine and RPMs do. Otherwise, the data seems completely normal. I'm no mechanic, so there could be valuable data I'm missing, and I'd happily upload my data if someone here is willing to look at it. I've been left completely stumped by this issue, and it seems to be becoming slowly more frequent as time does on. I'm not sure what my next step should be, and I'd greatly appreciate some help here

Any alignment shop will have the cars specs programmed into the racks electronic head unit. That shouldn't be an issue.

Ha! I knew there was something I was forgetting. Yes in fact there is indeed an update... Ive not seen any differences in the carpets other than the rear area I posted earlier about. Ive got the convertible carpet removed completely and have been deep cleaning. I dont see any structural differences in the floor pan layout between the coupe and convertible until you get to just behind the rear seats. Life events are holding me up ordering the carpets right now. But when I do I personally will be ordering two identical slate grey carpets from RockAuto for a 1994 Cutlass Supreme and trimming one to fit my 1995 convertible.

Thanks I really appreciate the update. Just keep me posted. Thanks again.

So...what should I do here guys come alignment time at a shop? Take all this info with me? Do you think they'll have specs saved in their system for our cars?

You noticed that was well.... in my 91 service manual the *service checking* angle is +.10 (or) 1/10 degree positive ...plus or minus .5 (or) 1/2 degree service setting is + .5 degree...plus or minus .5 degree

Kinda depends on the suspension geometry. If the suspension tends to go negative when the spring is compressed, a static positive setting MIGHT be appropriate. But I don't know if that's the case for an Olds Cutlass. I entirely do not understand how the "Service Checking" camber spec is -1.5 + or - .5 (Range -1 to -2) while the Service Setting is +.75. Doesn't make sense to me. ESPECIALLY since the Caster and Toe "Checking" spec and "Service" spec are essentially the same thing. I suspect an error in the service manual spec for camber "service" spec. Should be -1.5.

Any updates on carpet fitment?

Interesting. I suppose better handling and sportiness is the goal now.

I don't think there is an auto manufacturer who where their current models are concerned uses a + (positive) setting for either the front or rear camber. General handling purposes are now usually a - (negative) camber setting. Much better handling characteristics than any setting at a + (positive) camber angle

This will be some good information that I can arm myself with when it comes time to have the International's alignment checked. I will definitely be bringing this with me to hopefully help the tech out...and therefor myself.

Gibb's rule #6...never say you're sorry..lol

Sorry, wasn't really asking a question but thought I would just post it for guys not having the manual or needing this repair done.

LOL........what's the question?

Cutlass Supreme.

What vehicle?

It was the ecm. Codes would keep coming back and stalling on to other problems. Would love to find a chip if anyone knows of any available. Still need to fix the crossover and the brakes work but the light is on and the abs runs every pedal push. Found the place in Pittsburgh who can rebuild for 950. going to do the transmission fluid next. It shifts super firm. Only in the higher rpm’s but didn’t expect that. Works good though. can feel the turbo now. Another thing the ecm wouldn’t let work. I hope a chip would let it get a little more. I don’t know if the leaky crossover would mess with that or not? The psi in the manifold. I wouldn’t think so but I don’t know thanks for helping and hopefully this can help someone out someday.