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I guess I've been here long enough to say this, why are we bumping 15 year old threads? I didn't even read the comment, but it sounds like it's a bot that is advertising.

Does anyone have pictures of the factory door speakers in a 1992 (or similar) Cutlass Supreme coupe? I pulled a pair of door speakers from a 1996 coupe and I was wondering if the mounts will work. My 1992 currently has no door speakers. Thanks in advance!

Bubbling on rear window tint, especially with defroster lines, is a common issue if the film wasn't installed perfectly or if it has aged. The key is a careful removal of the old tint without damaging the heating strips, followed by a precise installation with high-quality materials. OC Tint Solutions in Anaheim and Costa Mesa specializes in handling these tricky rear windows. Their team ensures that all air pockets are eliminated and the tint adheres properly, even around defroster lines. More details on their approach and services can be found on their website. Many local drivers have had success with a professional reinstallation rather than attempting DIY fixes. It’s often the only way to prevent bubbling when the rear defroster is used regularly.

Here is info for the the swap based on my own experience of swapping my 88 cutlass w-body. 3800 swap w-body From 98/99 Monte Carlo z34/lumina LTZ with 3.8NA Needed - power steering lines (buy new) - Heater hoses (buy new) - Exhaust downpipe (or have one made) - AC system - all lines/parts from the engine bay (compressors can be from the gtp too) Best to have from the Monte Carlo/lumina but not mandatory - engine bay wiring harness - Cv shafts (buy new if you don’t have them) From gtp donor - motor - Trans - Trans cooler lines - rad hoses - Motor mounts - Cv shafts - PCM - Engine bay wiring harness Notes: cv shafts if using an HD trans you need to use the gtp passenger inner with the 1st Gen shaft and outer joint. If you get them from the Monte you can use the stock Monte drivers side. Wiring: if you can’t find the Monte Carlo harness you can use the gtp harnesss, and merge it into the 1st Gen c100 connector. With the Monte harness it comes with the c100 you just need to remove a few pins around and overall much easier but can be hard to find. You’ll need the GM service manuals for your donor harness and your original car to match the c100 connector. If using a Monte harness you will probably want to add the BBV wiring. This will also convert the car to obd2 PCM: you will need to get the vats/security removed(it’s possible it won’t be an issue but be aware it probably will be) and probably want to remove a few other codes. Rad: you could use your original, but the donor gtp rad will be bigger and fits into the chassis. I’d say it’s recommended but not 100% necessary.

Its likely a pre-production thing that never carried over, as that episode was filmed prior to the 88 cutlass being released.

was this badge a 88 or maybe 89 year option or standard feature? i've never seen that besides in this video

Hello everyone! I have a 2002 buick regal and it has the power drivers seat. Unfortunately one side does not move going forward or backward, and the rear up and down also doesn't work. The motors work fine as you can hear them when you press the buttons, however from what ive read on these they have plastic gears inside and they tend to break off. I saw a forum where someone said they had brass gears made and it worked, however he did not say where he sourced them from. My question is if anyone has repaired this before and if so did you get new gears or did you just swap out the motors? If so where did you source them from? Any info is greatly appreciated!

I do not believe that the 1994 Cutlass Supremes had the "Audio Bass Control" slider switch as an option, but I am not certain of this. The slider was located below the fog light button if the car were so equipped (there were two versions of the fog light switches). Here's an image of one (sorry it's so big): If the car was equipped with this feature, it also had a small amplifier located behind the dashboard, to the left of and slightly below the instrument panel. My 1992 Cutlass Supreme was pre-wired for this feature. The harness was folded and taped under the dashboard. I had a hell of a time getting the amplifier out of a junkyard car. The slider does definitely make a difference in the bass response in the 6x9s. It's been a really long time since I've posted here. I still love this site because it hasn't changed and people are still tinkering with their Ws.

Very cool and very worth preserving and treating right. Its rare and in beautiful condition. Thank you for treating it right.

What you see is actually *6PY* ....goes with *7PY* possibly front suspension FLH *6PY, FRH *7PY* 6PY 4 2 0 3 7 P FLH M COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP (6PY) 8 9 0 2 0 1 E 1 E A 7PY 4 3 3 3 3 P FRH M COMPONENT FRT RH COMPUTER SEL SUSP (7PY) 8 9 0 2 0 1 E 1 E A

Going by the RPO sticker, the fronts a little confusing. I’m assuming BPY code for the front springs

This is pretty cool, I'll have to check which mine have later.

amended

That's a file local to your computer, we can't access it

W body spring codes *paste this into your web browser address bar* my fronts are FYB, the rear is RFK *let's try this again.......this should work*

Automatic equipped FE3 springs from a 3.4 DOHC car seem to be the stiffest. The manual trans springs are slightly less stiff (as compared side by side, and they have different part numbers). In other words your automatic Z34 has the stiffest ever available factory.

I should have specified contacting a spring shop that specializes in making custom coil springs like this website https://www.coilsprings.com/classic-car-coil-springs No idea what numbers you'd have to give them, I wish I had a spec sheet from a discontinued aftermarket performance option for reference but I imagine those are very hard to come by.

The *actuator* was discontinued approx 20 years ago.......finding an NOS piece would be a challenge. The item IS serviceable..........

I know it's been done before. I think the biggest issue is always switching the vehicle over to OBDII. But if you aren't going for a Series II L67 a Series I L67 from a Bonneville that is OBD 1.5 might make a better option.

Hello everyone out there. Unfortunately Gm has made the decision to discontinue the cam belt tensioner for the 3.4 dohc engine. What's the feasibility of swapping out the 3.4 with the 3.8sc?

Spring shops can only install what's available in the aftermarket, & FE3's are not one of them. The springs availability is *generalized*, only the basic spring would be available.

I did a bit of digging on this a while ago and unfortunately if you want to change anything about the suspension rate in these cars now past what FE3 gives you'll either need to contact a spring shop or figure out how to fit coilovers on the car. There were custom coilover mounts available here but the last batch sold out years ago. I'm sure there are springs out there that fit the car and provide a stiffer rate than stock but as far as I'm aware nobody has come across ones that fit.

I gotcha. Just was wondering if there was something beefier for the W-Body I should look for.

The springs are not a *Chevy* thing....all 1st Gen W's with the FE3 got the stiffest coils available. What's under your Z34 is also under a GP with the FE3 suspension.

Not lower. Just have the best/highest spring rating chevy offered.