All Activity

These cars always turn into a list once you start digging, but getting the basics sorted first is still a win. A proper refresh down the road would be sweet.

A reman label really muddies the water, so the broadcast code is the one piece that settles it. A logger that connects with the wrong stream can look believable right up until it sends you chasing nonsense.

Those convertible-specific seals and interior bits can be a real scavenger hunt, but an 80k car that's been garaged is a solid starting point. Getting him one more ride in it would be pretty special.

That 12volt writeup makes the Viper route look pretty straightforward, especially compared with piecing together random Passkey modules. Compustar is solid too, but clean install docs are half the battle.

That Powermaster can load the electrical system pretty hard when it cycles, and the voltage dip could be dragging the idle down with it. A weak ground or tired alternator would make that whole combo a lot more noticeable.

Did you ever figure it out? I'm going to put something in my 2004 Sierra. I like Compustar a lot, but the Viper install they did on the Grand Prix looks very easy the way they did it. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=20338

charm.li free forever

Hello friends. Another one for you. My 1990 cutlass 3.1. Has a rough idle when it warms up. Replaced a lot of items and even a charcoal canister. Thinking the evap is bad. Which it was anyway. But the car starts acting up when it’s in gear and idling with foot on brake. Which I also noticed as my foot is on brake the engine kinda surges and I see my volt gage dip up and down a little. But enough to make the engine not perform as it should. I have to mention that I have a power master 3 brake system. Not a fan. Any ideas would be appreciated.

do i leave it white ,or do i use, the red line ?

Rear head access is the part that makes a simple intake job turn into a whole project. At least the teardown should settle whether the intake gasket was the real culprit.

That extra 2mm really wakes these cars up in the corners. Nice when a parts hunt ends with an actual upgrade instead of just getting back to square one.

You are 100% correct, I found a mechanic working at a local chevy dealership who has over 50 years experience. This source will not last forever, that's for sure. Per hour rate is not cheap but that's the way it goes.

Lol the classic garage vanishing act, the stuff you put away carefully is always the hardest to find. Bet they turn up the day after you cave and order a new set.

A whole summer of cold air out of a 3.4 car feels like a small miracle tbh, and a mechanic who actually wants to touch that motor is worth hanging on to.

And I still haven't found those door speakers. I will. Someday.

Was a great summer, the A/C performed as it should. Successful repairs is always a good thing, it's why we keep on driving these cars, or at least one reason, anyway.

UPDATE - no oil coming from the oil pump shaft, it's a wonderful thing. No coolant leaks. Coupled with the A/C being fixed, and this made for a great summer with this car. I still have a very small oil leak, within reason, nothing to worry over.

This is a great educational video about these motors. You can skip forward to the appropriate section for any questions.

Agreeing with 55 here. Those are reusable...I can send you a video of the process.

Im looking to buy a 3rd gen regal.. this is very specific but this would be my ideal selection, willing to comprimise on a couple things. Looking for a 1990-1994 Buick Regal Limited in black with red interior, cloth or leather, with the 3800 engine, sunroof, and front bench seats.

That item is no longer produced, finding a *new* replacement will be on the awkward side. They can be serviced, it's just a mechanical oil filled/spring loaded tensioner.

do you know were i can found the timing belt tensioner for this car the motor is 3.4 lq1 am changing the timing belt but mine is crying oil i need a new on the part number is GM 24503860

It's dusty........but not rusty. Nice climate in Peru.

That's awesome, I often wish my Cutlass could end up somewhere exotic and I could live vicariously through it.

I didn't find any other part # other than 10087630 for a 93 Regal with the old "3.1 MULTI PORT FI". Is it the original engine? ManicMechanic mentioned above Beretta got a 3-port. I found the Beretta p/n is 10146861. If the rubber block is badly deteriorated, might just have to use a lot of RTV to fill it. A quick Google search and I wasn't able to find generic rubber hose barbs either. A couple ideas off the top of my head (no idea if they'd actually work): 1. Find some hose with the OD approximately the size of the holes in the TB, and ID approximately the size of the plastic tubing. Shove the plastic tube into a short piece of hose and shove that hose into TB. 2. You could try one of those press-fit O-ring ends into the TB with a barb on the other side. I'd guess they come in different sizes, though that'll probably be hours of research to find them in the right sizes. 3. Or a non-reversible solution could be to tap out the holes in the TB piece and use metal threaded ends barbs. Although in both cases you'd need a short length of rubber hose to connect it to to the existing plastic vacuum lines. I would probably try my idea #1 first.