Invasion1 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 ' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegp Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Im going to be upgrading to some 17 inch rims on the 1992 Cutlass Turbo 5-speed...a 5 spoke style a little more "American" looking Centerline Viking http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheels_detail.php?mw_id=16&sw_id=84 Centerline Neutron http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheels_detail.php?mw_id=16&sw_id=86 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmatic Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 i like those frst ones but i dont think they willl look good on a cutlass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomshado Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 http://www.tirerack.com/servlet/CallJsp?target=wheelSearchCloseUp&wheelIndex=13&sizeIndex=0&showRear=no&setIndex=2&filterSize=&filterFinish=Painted&filterSpecial=Pricing I like those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topless94style Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 i like the cragar ss rims Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazmatic Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 link no worky..... :? and those ones i posted above i liked are not avaliable in out bolt patern FYI only 5 X 114.3 opposed to 5 X 115 we need Shity dave 5 x 114.3 do fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamcneely Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Yup take it from me, I work at a tire shop, and I fit at least one set of 5x114.3 wheels to a car with 5x115 bolt pattern every week. I run a set of 5x114.3 wheels on my 5x115 car myself too. They fit without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 get 18's ....they aren't a significant amount more then 17's and will fill up the wheel wells alot better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Don't you need spacers or something for 114.3? I thought bolting those up was bad cause they'd be riding on the lugs not on pressed up against the hub. :?: .7 mm is virtually nothing......you would never know the difference unless someone told Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegp Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 With any aftermarket wheel, it's best to instal hubcentric rings. The ring fills the gap between the large universal center bore of the wheel and the hub of the car. They insure that the wheel is perfectly centered (not centered = bad vibration) and that the car is being supported by the hub and not just the lugs. Most wheel manufactures have them available for their wheels. I used to work at a Sears garage and we put the 114.3mm on 115mm cars too and we always used hubcentric rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tylerz34 Posted March 10, 2004 Report Share Posted March 10, 2004 Go with the old school eagles. I love them and they are cheap get 18's ....they aren't a significant amount more then 17's and will fill up the wheel wells alot better... Yeah but they tire is alot more trust me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 http://community.webshots.com/photo/71122383/71125580MAfpZU Here's a pic of my Cutty (w/ 2 too many doors) w/ the 17" A/R's. (Webshots can burn in Hell) But you better hurry, the fukin link will probably stop working in 5... 4... 3... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 Make fun of my shit, there just went your 5 speed chip. :flip: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamcneely Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 Exactly, .7mm is virtually nothing, and then divide that by 4 becuase your not off by .7mm at one particular lug its throughout the whole bolt circle. So your only out by .175mm at each lug. Its kind of hard to explain, but I'm sure you guys are smart enough to catch what I'm saying. As far as the hubcentric rings go, bluegp is right, it is definatly a must to install. Those Centerline's at the first of the thread look good. The only problem I have with Centerline is that they don't smooth their wheels before they chrome plate it a lot of times, so you can see the machineing under your chrome. Which just seems cheap to me, yet your paying top dollar for them. They usually make a really strong wheel though, and they do have some badass designes, especially if your looking for something that is more Classic American looking. Look at some 18's too, its not that big of a difference in price and actually alot of times its less when you add in tires, because 18's are becoming the more popullar size. Well, at least at Les Schwab they are, I don't know what other stores are charging for 18" tires as opposed to 17". Have the shop mount a wheel and tire up so you can see how its going to look on the car. It helps out a lot, and if they're not willing to do that for you, tell them to fuck off and go some place else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted March 12, 2004 Report Share Posted March 12, 2004 Exactly, .7mm is virtually nothing, and then divide that by 4 becuase your not off by .7mm at one particular lug its throughout the whole bolt circle. So your only out by .175mm at each lug. Its kind of hard to explain, but I'm sure you guys are smart enough to catch what I'm saying. As far as the hubcentric rings go, bluegp is right, it is definatly a must to install. Divide by 4? Okay, I don't see it. Why divide by 4? I think you would divide by 2 using the radius because the center point will be the same. So the lug will be offset in the lug hole (closer to the outer edge) by .35mm. Hubcentric rings only make the wheel truly hubcentric if they are made of METAL. The plastic ones are simply used for centering and cannot support the weight of the car. Even with plastic hubcentric rings, the wheel itself is still lugcentric, with the lugs supporting the weight of the car. Even without rings, you can center the wheel fairly well by torquing them 30ft-lbs initially to seat them (with the wheel in the air), and then to 60ft-lbs, then lower the car and torque 90-100 ft-lbs. With the wheels being lugcentric, you will have to retorque them after 1-2 weeks of normal driving. This is a NECESSARY step on aftermarket wheels that are lugcentric, whether or not you have the plastic rings. In my experience, just 1 initial retorquing is necessary to seat them permanently. After this, it's not necessary to check them every week or every month, although that never hurts. I would probably recommend the initial retorque after 1-2 weeks with ANY aftermarket wheels, whether you have no hubcentric rings, plastic rings, and even metal rings. It probably doesn't hurt to do this even with factory wheels, although I've done it and haven't found a factory wheel that has actually needed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamcneely Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 Those are rad, how much are they going to run you in an 18? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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