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Guest TurboSedan

i'm getting a Luk Rep Set, that is if i can get one. they work great on my TD even with 13psi and it was only $150 for the TD. i haven't looked into a clutch yet for my Turbo 3.1/282 5-speed yet tho, i'm still busy with other parts of the car for now...

joshua

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i'm getting a Luk Rep Set, that is if i can get one. they work great on my TD even with 13psi and it was only $150 for the TD. i haven't looked into a clutch yet for my Turbo 3.1/282 5-speed yet tho, i'm still busy with other parts of the car for now...

joshua

 

luk is good

 

i would look into that i think they have web site but can't remember the addy. if you want the phone # he he might have it or i can see if i have (need to dig it out of a bag) it

 

good luck

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Mine is actually from Clutchmasters, but turns out the disc was most likely made my clutchnet.com. Apparently clutchmasters doesn't make their own products.

 

I couldn't give you a specific part number, except for the clutchmasters one.

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Guest TurboSedan

if you have a 282 from a W-body then yes you should have an external slave cylider that bolts onto the bellhousing part of the trans with 2 13mm bolts. there is an internal fork that the slave clyinder pushes on and moves the TO bearing in/out. i had to replace the fork & fork end bearings in mine a few months ago before i could install it into my Cutlass.

joshua

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http://www.brian89gp.com/clutch.jpg (fiber puc) Its for a 284 but aside from the center it'll look similar. Notice the center section, 6 rivits! In my opinion they disc is pretty near bullet proof.

 

The fiber pucs cost more (look like compressed cardboard), are a little less grabby, and will hold a little less power. The stintered copper pucs (look like brake pads) hold more, grab more, and eat the oposing surfaces more. From what I have gathered either clutch will be doing good if it hits 40k miles.

 

I paid $180 plus shipping for just the disc. I haven't installed it yet so don't ask how it drives, I don't know.

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Yep. Due to complications I ended up using a stock setup till I pull it out the next time which is probably for the best, learing to drive a stick is a lot easier on a stock disc :P.

 

You may consider using a stock pressure plate, unless you are planning on making a lot of power. The one in their kit is undoubtly re-arched to be stiffer. Just try not to go overboard with more clutch then you need, all you gain is a bigger hole in the pocket and more hassle driving.

 

I know of 2 Fiero's with this clutch (6 puc from clutchnet) both right at around 400hp at the crank. A worked turbo 2.8 and a turbo 3.4 DOHC and they both say that the clutch is definately streetable, though I imagine peoples opion's will differe here.

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I'm gonna watch this thread since I know my day is coming to replace the Centerforce that's in the car. I've never done one before, but it could be a fun experience.

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Some people seem to think that the 4 puc copper/ceramic clutches arn't streetable, but mine is fine. I really don't have problems driving it around town. It is a sprung hub, though.

It does grab and grab hard, though, but then again, that's what I need for my application. Now, if I could just keep the tranny/axles from dying.......Only going to get worse when I finally go past 12 psi boost.

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What you planning on putting this on? A stock 282 disc probably won't hold a TGP motor all that well.

 

When I mean stiffer, those pressure plate fins are a large spring, they press the iron plate against the disc. To get a 'performance' pressure plate they re-arch those fins so that they are a higher spring rate which makes the iron plate clamp even harder on the disc.

 

You might want to look into the 9 11/16" pressure plate and disc, instead of the stock 9 1/8". Depending on your motor and driving habits you might be able to get away with the larger one and a full face disc.

 

Streetable is quite a vauge term isn't it? If you do want the 6 puc disc then go ahead, but keep in mind that it will be harder to drive then a full face disc. Also performance discs don't take to excessive slipping as well so you have to be carefull not to glaze it over.

 

http://www.secureleadercom.com/fsstore/default.asp?bodystyle=1&topdeptnumber=77&searchBit=3&dept=103&page=2

The link above, I believe those clutches will work but please double check if you do want to order one. That RAM 9 3/4" might work depending on what you need.

 

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/040788.html

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Guest TurboSedan

whats the best way of changing a clutch when the engine and tranny is in the car???

 

Must be a PITA to install and adjust???

 

anyone done one before

 

Cheers

Dave

 

i think it's probably impossible without pulling the engine and trans completely out of the car. i installed mine and it was really easy since i had the drivetrain out anyway. installing the tranny back onto the engine after the clutch was on was a total PITA tho since i did it myself. this is definately a job for two or three people. you have to hold the engine off the ground with a hoist, then pick the tranny up, and have someone turn the crank so you can align the input shaft into the clutch, and slide it on while a third person tries to hold the engine still during the process. be very careful that the TO bearing stays in place while you do this! then just install the bellhousing bolts and torque to spec.

 

besides that, the entire clutch job is very self-explanatory. i would go ahead and replace the rear main seal before installing the flywheel. make sure you resurface the flywheel and use the clutch alignment tool b4 bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel (doh), and tighten all bolts evenly and with a good torque wrench. i would probably spray the clutch parts down with Brakleen just before installing them to make sure everything is clean, and use a small amount of anti-sieze/high temp grease on the area of the input shaft that the TO bearing rides on (i completely forgot what i used...) i've only done the 282 clutch once, (and a couple TD clutches) and everything has been great with the clutch for about 50,000 miles now.

 

i don't think there is any way to adjust the clutch, you just need to make sure that there is NO air in the clutch hydraulic system (it's very easy to bleed).

joshua

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