1994 Cutlass Supreme- 2rd, Front speakers

[bluecalais79]

Does anyone know the technique/tricks to removing the LH/RH door panels on the 1994 Cutlass Supreme 2 doors? I need to remove the LH door panel to replace my check link, but while I'm at it I'll be replacing the speaker with a better one, and also the Power window/door lock/mirror switches with an NOS one.

Thanks

 

[jiggity76]

4 hours ago, bluecalais79 said:

Does anyone know the technique/tricks to removing the LH/RH door panels on the 1994 Cutlass Supreme 2 doors? I need to remove the LH door panel to replace my check link, but while I'm at it I'll be replacing the speaker with a better one, and also the Power window/door lock/mirror switches with an NOS one.

Thanks

 

Yup...going by memory here and basing it off of my 91 Cutlass coupe.

Step one - getting all the screws out of the panel  These should all be phillips head screws and the first one will be up top near the outside mirror corner towards the front of the door.  There will be another one at the very bottom center of the door.  You might have to get low and really look down at the bottom edge of the door panel to see it.  The next one will be a for the door handle bezel.  You should see it behind the chrome door handle.  Once it's removed, pull the door handle where you need it to feed the bezel off of it.  Once the bezel is out, you'll have a little bit of a cavity in the door panel now.  There might be a big torx bit screw there that needs to come out.  I believe this screw holds the door handle THAT YOU PULL THE DOOR CLOSE WITH to a metal support bracket.  Just look in that area to be sure.  If there isn't one there, there will definitely be one around the armrest pad area...like under it.  Just know that there is a big torx bit screw somewhere in those areas, can't remember if it's just one or two.  Going back up top, you'll need to pull away the seat belt cover at the top of the panel where the seat belt goes thru the panel.  Once that cover is off, you'll see 2 screws there that need to come out.  Maybe even one...I've seen GM just using one screw to hold that bezel down, it's hit or miss.  That SHOULD be all the screws but double check.

Step two - the door panel should now just be held on with plastic tabs, sort of like a Christmas tree looking plastic tab.  Using the armrest pad/grab handle...pull it quickly away and it should break free from the door.  Not all the way, but you'll just have to give it a quick, snappy, pull to get the panel to come free.  If it doesn't, double check those areas where the torx bit screws might be.  You'll have to fish the lower part of the seat belt thru the slot in the door to get the panel fully off.  It's good to get new Christmas tree plastic tabs as well since some of those tabs might break when you start messing with the door panel.  Your local auto parts store should have them.

Step three - gently pull your power window/mirror/lock switch up out of the panel.  It's held on with some really strong metal tension tabs and you'll just need to take your time and gently pry it away from the panel.  I just used my fingers and absolutely make sure your nails are trimmed so that you don't scratch the panel face.  Once it's out, you'll see those tension tabs I'm referring too.  You'll have to remove the lock tabs for the connectors to the switch, I just use a small flat blade screwdriver.  Wiggle the base of the connector out of the back of the switch...they'll be tough to pull as they're really in there.

Some pics of when I did this.  Disregard the bolt in this pic..it was incorrect and the phillips head screw is the correct one.  You should have it as well unless someone before you messed it up or something.  This is the door handle bezel.

 

 

This is the support bracket for the armrest pad/pull handle.  This is where that big torx bit screw lives.

 

 

This is the secondary door handle cover.  It will need to come out when you pull the large bezel around the handle off.  It just slips out.

 

 

A view of the door with the panel off for reference.  Make sure the doors harness is fastened to the door.  You'll have lots of rattling when going down the road if it's not secure.

 

Edited June 16 by jiggity76

[bluecalais79]

A huge thank you for this Jiggity! Looks like you cut your index finger a bit on this job. One for the cause I guess. 

[jiggity76]

17 minutes ago, bluecalais79 said:

A huge thank you for this Jiggity! Looks like you cut your index finger a bit on this job. One for the cause I guess. 

You're very welcome and hope it helps.  Nah, I did that at work.  My cars do like to bite sometimes though.

[94 olds vert]

This should be a sticky. It's been so long since I removed a CS door panel. I couldn't remember some of the screws. 

[jiggity76]

1 hour ago, 94 olds vert said:

This should be a sticky. It's been so long since I removed a CS door panel. I couldn't remember some of the screws. 

What's a sticky?

[94 olds vert]

24 minutes ago, jiggity76 said:

What's a sticky?

Basically it's the pinned threads at the top of the page so people can find them easier. Those posts have great information in then. 

Edited June 16 by 94 olds vert

[bluecalais79]

Kudos and another big THANK YOU to Mr. Jiggity for the photo & text tutoral on this job. Mission accomplished! The hardest part was getting those dang plugs out of the switches. I now have a properly functioning Check Link and as an added bonus the following:

* Door Pull - this was loose since I bought the car in 1994. The original screw was found at the bottom of the door. It was reinstalled. 

* NOS drivers side switchplate and P/W, P/DL switch was installed. The original Power Mirror switch was used as I did not have an NOS one.

* Door Speaker - I bought the wrong one, so the original speaker went back in. No matter, as still works fine. I bought a while back a set of NOS front door speakers and I will install these once the ones in the car croak. And not until then.

I am no longer afraid of doing this job now. It's not easy but it is do-able.

Much appreciated!!!

Edited June 23 by bluecalais79

[jiggity76]

5 hours ago, bluecalais79 said:

Kudos and another big THANK YOU to Mr. Jiggity for the photo & text tutoral on this job. Mission accomplished! The hardest part was getting those dang plugs out of the switches. I now have a properly functioning Check Link and as an added bonus the following:

* Door Pull - this was loose since I bought the car in 1994. The original screw was found at the bottom of the door. It was reinstalled. 

* NOS drivers side switchplate and P/W, P/DL switch was installed. The original Power Mirror switch was used as I did not have an NOS one.

* Door Speaker - I bought the wrong one, so the original speaker went back in. No matter, as still works fine. I bought a while back a set of NOS front door speakers and I will install these once the ones in the car croak. And not until then.

I am no longer afraid of doing this job now. It's not easy but it is do-able.

Much appreciated!!!

You're very welcome, glad to help.

I've been pretty good about finding NOS stuff for both of my cars restorations.  No speakers though, that's quite the find!

[rich_e777]

On 6/16/2024 at 11:27 AM, jiggity76 said:

Yup...going by memory here and basing it off of my 91 Cutlass coupe.

Step one - getting all the screws out of the panel  These should all be phillips head screws and the first one will be up top near the outside mirror corner towards the front of the door.  There will be another one at the very bottom center of the door.  You might have to get low and really look down at the bottom edge of the door panel to see it.  The next one will be a for the door handle bezel.  You should see it behind the chrome door handle.  Once it's removed, pull the door handle where you need it to feed the bezel off of it.  Once the bezel is out, you'll have a little bit of a cavity in the door panel now.  There might be a big torx bit screw there that needs to come out.  I believe this screw holds the door handle THAT YOU PULL THE DOOR CLOSE WITH to a metal support bracket.  Just look in that area to be sure.  If there isn't one there, there will definitely be one around the armrest pad area...like under it.  Just know that there is a big torx bit screw somewhere in those areas, can't remember if it's just one or two.  Going back up top, you'll need to pull away the seat belt cover at the top of the panel where the seat belt goes thru the panel.  Once that cover is off, you'll see 2 screws there that need to come out.  Maybe even one...I've seen GM just using one screw to hold that bezel down, it's hit or miss.  That SHOULD be all the screws but double check.

Step two - the door panel should now just be held on with plastic tabs, sort of like a Christmas tree looking plastic tab.  Using the armrest pad/grab handle...pull it quickly away and it should break free from the door.  Not all the way, but you'll just have to give it a quick, snappy, pull to get the panel to come free.  If it doesn't, double check those areas where the torx bit screws might be.  You'll have to fish the lower part of the seat belt thru the slot in the door to get the panel fully off.  It's good to get new Christmas tree plastic tabs as well since some of those tabs might break when you start messing with the door panel.  Your local auto parts store should have them.

Step three - gently pull your power window/mirror/lock switch up out of the panel.  It's held on with some really strong metal tension tabs and you'll just need to take your time and gently pry it away from the panel.  I just used my fingers and absolutely make sure your nails are trimmed so that you don't scratch the panel face.  Once it's out, you'll see those tension tabs I'm referring too.  You'll have to remove the lock tabs for the connectors to the switch, I just use a small flat blade screwdriver.  Wiggle the base of the connector out of the back of the switch...they'll be tough to pull as they're really in there.

Some pics of when I did this.  Disregard the bolt in this pic..it was incorrect and the phillips head screw is the correct one.  You should have it as well unless someone before you messed it up or something.  This is the door handle bezel.

 

 

This is the support bracket for the armrest pad/pull handle.  This is where that big torx bit screw lives.

 

 

This is the secondary door handle cover.  It will need to come out when you pull the large bezel around the handle off.  It just slips out.

 

 

A view of the door with the panel off for reference.  Make sure the doors harness is fastened to the door.  You'll have lots of rattling when going down the road if it's not secure.

 

I was able to successfully fix that spot we all have cut in this panel in order to leave the restraint system alone. You can get a coil of metal air duct hanger bracket and 6-8 small nuts and bolts to bring it all back together to prevent the panel from dragging. Ive done the drivers door on my 1994 CS and its held up so far.  

 

 

 

 

[bluecalais79]

Rich, you may have struck on something with this coil of metal air duct hanger bracket. It may just be that a piece of this can be used to repair the busted out glove box latch screws. Perhaps this bracket can be somehow adhered to the dash and then the glove box latch can screw into the bracket. Hmmmmmm