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What’s making this noise?


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1 hour ago, Schurkey said:

WHO is supplying this "rebuilt" engine?

I get extremely suspicious of production-line "rebuilds", too many cut corners.

Good question, I’ve asked. The shop doing the install would offer a 3 year/36k miles warranty-whichever comes last. So I feel good about that. 

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51 minutes ago, 55trucker said:

Well, how much money-on-hand do you have?

How much are you willing to spend on a replacement engine?

out of curiosity... how long have you owned the car?

I’ve got the money on hand. Just want to make sure I’m doing the right thing. I’ve owned the car coming up on three years. Put very few miles on it. Bought it site unseen not running from MN (no rust). Shipped directly to my mechanic who determined it threw a timing belt. He fixed it and outside of other smaller repairs-cars been fine. I’m wondering if after it threw that belt, maybe the dealer kept trying to turn it over and damaged it. 

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Here's a possible alternative.....

 

a complete new old stock crate engine, they do show up from time to time.

As far as I can tell this fellow is near Charlston South Carolina.

https://columbia.craigslist.org/pts/d/branchville-gm-lq1-34-crate-engine/7681921695.html

He answered my email.....He has the engine, never fired, still crated

he looking for $899 or best offer

didn't state what version the heads were !st version or 2nd

 

*i there..just looked at this posting, it was dated 2 days ago?


do you still have this engine?


thx


Steve

 

*Yes I do 803 664 4888

Sent from my iPhone
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3 hours ago, 55trucker said:

Here's a possible alternative.....

 

a complete new old stock crate engine, they do show up from time to time.

As far as I can tell this fellow is near Charlston South Carolina.

https://columbia.craigslist.org/pts/d/branchville-gm-lq1-34-crate-engine/7681921695.html

He answered my email.....He has the engine, never fired, still crated

he looking for $899 or best offer

didn't state what version the heads were !st version or 2nd

 

*i there..just looked at this posting, it was dated 2 days ago?


do you still have this engine?


thx


Steve

 

*Yes I do 803 664 4888

Sent from my iPhone

Like minds….I emailed him also but haven’t heard back yet. Thanks for sharing this, I’ll use the number he provided. @jiggity76 also gave me a lead on the folks he got his from and they do have a few left, I’m calling them tomorrow. Going this route could save me thousands…

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  • 1 month later...

Update for everyone. Finally found a reputable shop with experience working solely on older GM’s, Cadillacs specifically. 
When he heard the car run and start he immediately knew what was going on…the timing belt was installed incorrectly and the car was out of time. This was causing the noise, hard start, shuddering once TCC engaged, and vibration. He also fixed the horn and SWC (kinda). Three other shops couldn’t figure this out. I’m so relieved, cars running so good. 
 

 

 

 

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Curious...

I've been thru the *incorrectly timed* engine B.S. ...took place back when the engine was still under warranty, the exhaust cams were improperly timed to the crank (late) by the GM shop mechanic who (way back then) had next to no experience on this engine, engine would start, run, but lacked overall power. There was no undue noise, no backfiring.......what was the actual source of the noise that could be heard? 

 

 

*looking at the video you made I see that when the engine was reassembled the mechanic didn't properly route the front bank plug wires to where they should be...

Edited by 55trucker
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30 minutes ago, 55trucker said:

Curious...

I've been thru the *incorrectly timed* engine B.S. ...took place back when the engine was still under warranty, the exhaust cams were improperly timed to the crank (late) by the GM shop mechanic who (way back then) had next to no experience on this engine, engine would start, run, but lacked overall power. There was no undue noise, no backfiring.......what was the actual source of the noise that could be heard? 

 

 

*looking at the video you made I see that when the engine was reassembled the mechanic didn't properly route the front bank plug wires to where they should be...

Do you have a pic of how they should be routed? This mechanic didn’t mess with plugs so I’m thinking this is from someone who was in it before I got it. 
 

He said something with the timing about having to move it 180 degrees. Basically the way it was installed would show that the car was in time when previous mechanics checked it but really it wasn’t. I’ll have to call him for a better explanation. But no more noise, fires right off. 

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Ok, think I'm getting the picture here,

when timing the 4 cams the rear bank are done 1st (#1 is at the back), at this stage the cam sprockets are free, the 2 cam locks are in place, one brings the crank up to top dead for #1, then one tightens the 2 rear cam sprockets to lock them into place, one then removes the cam lock for the rear bank & now one rotates the crank another 360 degrees to bring #4 up to to dead centre & one repeats the timing process again.  Now all 4 cams should be timed correctly.

The plug wires are routed behind the coolant manifold, all 6 come very close to the A/C piping, the rears go up & out of sight across the front of the engine, the fronts are held together in that oval shaped split loom & fastened to the clip on the corner of the carrier cover. Are the short sections of split loom still covering the wires down near the coils?

 

 

Coolant manifold 4.JPG

Ignition coil plug wires.jpg

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2 hours ago, 55trucker said:

Ok, think I'm getting the picture here,

when timing the 4 cams the rear bank are done 1st (#1 is at the back), at this stage the cam sprockets are free, the 2 cam locks are in place, one brings the crank up to top dead for #1, then one tightens the 2 rear cam sprockets to lock them into place, one then removes the cam lock for the rear bank & now one rotates the crank another 360 degrees to bring #4 up to to dead centre & one repeats the timing process again.  Now all 4 cams should be timed correctly.

The plug wires are routed behind the coolant manifold, all 6 come very close to the A/C piping, the rears go up & out of sight across the front of the engine, the fronts are held together in that oval shaped split loom & fastened to the clip on the corner of the carrier cover. Are the short sections of split loom still covering the wires down near the coils?

 

 

Coolant manifold 4.JPG

Ignition coil plug wires.jpg

Looks like I need to reroute. I can just pop off 2/4/6 and move them. Also appears I need to buy some covers as well. Assume auto parts store will have. IMG_3908.jpeg.0d23d61dd7dbea0ddb473a68ec91a512.jpegIMG_3909.jpeg.9241174e1a2fc65fca98612a91ddb391.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I didn't respond to this pic earlier as I do not own a 94 or later car.

What I see looks like the forward end of the coolant recovery tank, I take it that your engine bay has a wiring harness protruding from the top of the engine just forward of the power steering pump that goes over to the electrical centre just in front of the coolant recovery tank?

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Yes I think so, thank you. Looks like one clips into coolant overflow tank as I have it and then others might just be resting there-harder to see those. 

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