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WillCut

Remote Door lock reciever process not working 95 CSC

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Ok, so I read the forums on how to do this procedure and found some pics from one of MephisMan's threads.

I've located the black/white wire connector while fixing my power antenna. I ground the wire and nothing happens.

I just got the car and don't have much history but it only has only 65k on it and seems to be in decent shape. I wouldnt suspect much hacking of the wiring and it certainly looks normal. The only remote I got was aftermarket but I'm assuming it can be programmed natively with the car. its a Prestige 105BP. I bought a used 2522338 remote since I needed another set of keys anyhow and this Prestige looks gaudy.

The destination remote doesn't matter since I cant even get the lock/unlock programming mode from jumping the black/white wire. any ideas?

3d54925ad07bac748275a72b6554121e.thumb.jpg.fee66abf0a51a5f2a5daee444cb1c49d.jpg3592b1e1c27c0b63ebb1086a35a3f062.thumb.jpg.775797dc877459705d3e5dd2b6bf5a11.jpg

Edit: oh lord... I just dug under the dash and found an Audiovox rx14pbl... clean install at least... Why would something like this be installed? the car doesn't remote start as far as I can tell.

Edit2: Yep... I have a Prestige APS687C installed in the car. Just doesn't work for the remote start, however. Oh well, guess that explains why I cant program my normal remote!

Edited by WillCut

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Naah, I'm loving the car... always wanted one and was lucky enough to get one with such low miles... she needs a lil work but We'll get there!

 

Thanks for the supportive reply! :)

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1 hour ago, K&R said:

The keyless entry doesn't work on my 90 Vert. The power antenna doesn't work either.

Not sure about any of that stuff on my two non running W's.  My 96 CS daily, it all works!  I had to put in a new antenna though.  They are spendy if you go the NOS route.  It was $285 bucks including shipping but it works flawlessly.

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I rebuilt my antenna. the plastic cable broke in the the middle, you could hear the motor was working however. So I just bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JV51KB8

I had to open up part of the assembly to get the rest of the old cord out. they kinda use a plastic seal like rivets on that part... I popped off the 4 corners, fixed it all and then used a soldering iron to melt the four plastic rivets down to hold the case again.

But yeah, wheres the darn tach wire so I can hook up my auto starter?!?! lol

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18 hours ago, jiggity76 said:

Not sure about any of that stuff on my two non running W's.  My 96 CS daily, it all works!  I had to put in a new antenna though.  They are spendy if you go the NOS route.  It was $285 bucks including shipping but it works flawlessly.

I haven't even looked into fixing my locks yet. Its on the list though. If I had a factory radio I bet my antenna would work. 

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20 hours ago, WillCut said:

But yeah, wheres the darn tach wire so I can hook up my auto starter?!?! lol

You've got the manual for the electrical section?

 

Section 8 is where the diagrams are.....the schematic for the the cluster is in there, should/could be 8A, starting at page 80

Edited by 55trucker

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I don't have the manual. I any suggestions on the best one for this car? I have read the forums that there is a white wire (or purple) going to to the cluster that is tach but I was hoping to tap it lower and to not have to go outside the firewall.

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739611346_Instrumentclusterschematic(Large).thumb.JPG.a456da7bda788c839f829f8e4c0ebf3e.JPG

Now that I have my camera back again....

 

here is the cluster schematic for the 91-93. As far as the wiring itself is concerned do not know if 94-96 conductor colours changed.

 

 

*well.........this is a 1st.....the pic rotated for some reason & I can't correct it.*

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by 55trucker

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Thank you for the diagram. I tapped into the tach on the dash instead of drilling through the firewall and that worked. White wire. I could not get the damn cluster out however. omg - who designed that setup?!?! is there some weird trick? Do you have to lower the damn steering column? anyhow. I got it all working and put a resistor for the VATs and everything starts fine now....

Of course with one exception... the !@#$!$% heat/ac do not work. I'm assuming the tapped into the wrong accessory line. Do these cars have 1 ignition and 2 accessories?

Also, what is the favored book of the forum for these cars?

Edit: Digging further I see there are two accessories. Orange and Purple with a white stripe.

Apparently the Purple/White is the climate control. Does anyone know if I should just move the started 12v out from the orange to the Purple/White? I dont really care if the stereo starts or not or do I need a relay from orange to purple/white?

Thanks!

Edited by WillCut

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On 7/2/2019 at 5:27 PM, jiggity76 said:

Not sure about any of that stuff on my two non running W's.  My 96 CS daily, it all works!  I had to put in a new antenna though.  They are spendy if you go the NOS route.  It was $285 bucks including shipping but it works flawlessly.

I picked one up from a boneyard for about $15 shortly after I got my '95 vert. I didn't need it--still don't--but it's god to have on hand for when the inevitable happens. In my experience, you just need to look for one that's fully retracted and the odds are greatly in your favor that it works just fine. Of course, you pay your money and take your chances on how long it will work but for less than a tenth the cost of a new one, I think it's a pretty good gamble, considering you could replace it several times and still come out ahead.

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Its not the RKE box but thanks for the heads up.

So, to beat this dead horse. I have the car starter working but it is not turning on the ac or heater. In another thread I see someone identified a purple and white wire being a second accessory which I assumed that needed to be used with the accessory out on my starter (only one accessory out). HOWEVER, the wiring documentation (attached) suggests only ONE accessory line for the 1995. Can anyone give me a definitive answer if there are two accessory lines or not? right now the accessory output on the remote starter is tapped to the orange accessory in the car and works the stereo but the climate controls are not turning on. Id like to get this working so I can put the dash back together :)

OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME 1991-1997.pdf

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On 6/29/2019 at 4:35 PM, WillCut said:

Ok, so I read the forums on how to do this procedure and found some pics from one of MephisMan's threads.

I've located the black/white wire connector while fixing my power antenna. I ground the wire and nothing happens.

I just got the car and don't have much history but it only has only 65k on it and seems to be in decent shape. I wouldnt suspect much hacking of the wiring and it certainly looks normal. The only remote I got was aftermarket but I'm assuming it can be programmed natively with the car. its a Prestige 105BP. I bought a used 2522338 remote since I needed another set of keys anyhow and this Prestige looks gaudy.

The destination remote doesn't matter since I cant even get the lock/unlock programming mode from jumping the black/white wire. any ideas?

3d54925ad07bac748275a72b6554121e.thumb.jpg.fee66abf0a51a5f2a5daee444cb1c49d.jpg3592b1e1c27c0b63ebb1086a35a3f062.thumb.jpg.775797dc877459705d3e5dd2b6bf5a11.jpg

Edit: oh lord... I just dug under the dash and found an Audiovox rx14pbl... clean install at least... Why would something like this be installed? the car doesn't remote start as far as I can tell.

Edit2: Yep... I have a Prestige APS687C installed in the car. Just doesn't work for the remote start, however. Oh well, guess that explains why I cant program my normal remote!

Probably N/A at this point sounds like, but for whats it worth, my RKE module would not go into program mode (using the jumper) because the solder joints were bad in the module.  I used a test light to verify I had power going to the RKE module.  Once verified, I perfomed the RKE solder fix, then it would enter program mode.

I know you have an aftermarket device installed, but you could still have a faulty RKE module, but not sure it matters at this point.

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RKE solder fix? I'll have to look that up.  RKE Module topic

I thought that even if I had an aftermarket starter that the old RKE should still work. Is that the silver box mounted under the console?

My car is crazy - its popping fuse #39 now, I've disabled everything I've even touched or looked at. Stereo, the cluster, this light switch (below with convertible top switch). Ugh...

guess ill look under the console again, I had that cover removed when I was looking at how to hydrographics the thing...

 

image.png.cfbb43408051e2a0fe75bae7f285e403.png

Edited by WillCut

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RKE solder fix? I'll have to look that up.  RKE Module topic

I thought that even if I had an aftermarket starter that the old RKE should still work. Is that the silver box mounted under the console?

My car is crazy - its popping fuse #39 now, I've disabled everything I've even touched or looked at. Stereo, the cluster, this light switch (below with convertible top switch). Ugh...

guess ill look under the console again, I had that cover removed when I was looking at how to hydrographics the thing...

 

 

The RKE module on the '95 verts is located behind the rear seat back.  You can see it from the trunk if you remove the carpet, but the best way to get to it is to remove the rear seat back.  It will be a black box wrapped in blue plastic with two wire connectors going to it.  Here it is on my 95 vert.  You won't have the relay to the left of the RKE module.  I put that there to make the parking lights flash when I lock/unlock the doors.

6704912fe9c5eab4bbd32c699dbbd517.jpg

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RKE solder fix? I'll have to look that up.  RKE Module topic

I thought that even if I had an aftermarket starter that the old RKE should still work. Is that the silver box mounted under the console?

My car is crazy - its popping fuse #39 now, I've disabled everything I've even touched or looked at. Stereo, the cluster, this light switch (below with convertible top switch). Ugh...

guess ill look under the console again, I had that cover removed when I was looking at how to hydrographics the thing...

 

image.png.cfbb43408051e2a0fe75bae7f285e403.png

That's a good place to put the vert top switch.  I don't think I've seen that done before.  It looks good there!  What did you do with the original housing it was in?  That is a one year only piece, so I'd hold on to it.  I paid decent money to get a spare one to hydrodip so I could keep the original one pristine.  Did you know the empty space in the headlight switch was supposed to be for HUD controls?   They were going to offer a HUD in the 95 Cutlass Supreme, but pulled the plug at the last minute.  You can see the switch in your owners manual.  As a matter of fact, if your car is a 3.4 DOHC car, it's actually prewired for HUD.  I found a light switch with HUD controls about 3 years ago and ended up installing HUD in my vert.

59e1a71bc727c9155ff8be207f45492d.jpg

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Oh you bet I seen your HUD! that thing is awesome! I didn't know the 3.4 DOHC's were all pre-wired for it. I might have thought about doing it myself but I got enough on my plate for now. I got the car for fairly cheap so I'm trying to fix her up and would keep her for a summer daily. I have a 63 cutlass for the special occasions :)

 

I've sent the oil off to blackstone to see if I can figure out of the LIM was already done or not. Its not as nice looking as yours and I would have never liked that color combo before but after seeing yours I just couldnt pass this car up. I still have the console and convert switch if someone down the road needs a replacement.

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2 hours ago, WillCut said:

Oh you bet I seen your HUD! that thing is awesome! I didn't know the 3.4 DOHC's were all pre-wired for it. I might have thought about doing it myself but I got enough on my plate for now. I got the car for fairly cheap so I'm trying to fix her up and would keep her for a summer daily. I have a 63 cutlass for the special occasions :)

 

I've sent the oil off to blackstone to see if I can figure out of the LIM was already done or not. Its not as nice looking as yours and I would have never liked that color combo before but after seeing yours I just couldnt pass this car up. I still have the console and convert switch if someone down the road needs a replacement.

Yeah, it seems all of the 3.4 verts in 95 were pre-wired for HUD, not sure about the 3.4 coupes or sedans.  I'm also not sure what you mean about sending oil off to blackstone to see if the LIM was already done or not?  

When I bought my car in 2010, I wasn't looking for the color combo I have, I was looking for the lowest miles one I could afford.  Back then, if I had the choice of a red or black one with the same low miles, I might've taken one of those over the green.  But over the years, and as I've gotten older (50 in 2 months), I've come to appreciate the color even more and especially after the burlwood treatment.  When done properly, this color combo rocks and it looks like you're on your way with the burlwood treatment too.  I'd recommend having Micah do up a set of steering wheel buttons for you.

Would love to see pics of your 63 Cutlass too!

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Blackstone does oil analysis, I hope they can tell me if the lower intake manifold gasket is going.  

The previous owner passed and I bought it 3rd party so I have no history other than carfax.

The coolant is green and the car seems to be fairly well taken care of with only 66k on it (the carfax suggests no funny stuff).

So I'm hoping they don't tell me there is any coolant in my oil or anything funky. I don't know much of these 3.4's but that LIM scares me!

Ill start getting some pics up soon. This weekend we are heading out of town so maybe on Sunday.

The 63 is a weird car with a unique v215 aluminum engine! I just pulled the crappy trans and put a 4 speed in it but need to finish a hump now.

I hope to have the new burlwood done soon, I had them re-do my bad choice of film with the one your guy identified so it should be much better! :)

 

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19 hours ago, WillCut said:

So I'm hoping they don't tell me there is any coolant in my oil or anything funky. I don't know much of these 3.4's but that LIM scares me!

 

 

The valley area of the DOHC block is sealed off, it is not open to the engine internals, the intake manifold sits above it, not to it. The manifold is fastened to the heads, if you find oil in the recess of the valley that oil is from something else leaking (power steering pump reservoir, distribution cover gasket leaking etc. )

You''re letting your fears get the best of you, when the intake gaskets go coolant can leak into the valley area & as well the air/fuel mixture can be upset..

 

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On 8/9/2019 at 9:56 AM, WillCut said:

So I'm hoping they don't tell me there is any coolant in my oil or anything funky. I don't know much of these 3.4's but that LIM scares me!

If the LIMs start to fail, the first sign would RPM surging or high RPMs on cold starts, with RPMs returning to normal when the engine heats up.  If your RPMs are normal upon a cold start, your LIMs are probably fine.  The process to change them isn't really that bad.

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Usually, if the LIM is leaking, careful inspection under the manifold will show coolant accumulating in the valley, like MenphisMan mentioned.

Having suffered through a couple of those when I had my LQ1, I can tell you it’s usually pretty obvious, and not all that hard to see...so if the area under the manifold is dry, you’re probably just fine.

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